Double Tap to Zoom

“It’s so intense to be a superfan,” Lady Gaga said in 2008 during one of her first televised interviews. “I feel like it’s been lost a little. If anything, I want to bring that back.” Barely an album into her career, she became Mother Monster to a new kind of devotee: fans who looked to her for maternal guidance, feeling themselves on the same journey as the star they worshipped.

Nearly two decades later, that strain of devotion has become a prerequisite for pop stardom. It was especially visible in early January at Gaga’s MAYHEM Requiem, a one-night exclusive show in partnership with Apple Music Live at the 2,300-capacity Wiltern in Los Angeles. Only the most dedicated fans, who were subscribed to her mailing list, were invited, their names drawn by lottery. Tickets, nontransferable, cost between $225 and $450. Phones were banned.

With just two days’ notice, her superfans bent Koreatown out of shape, wrapping around a mile-plus radius of the venue where I’d seen a mid-tier indie band with 100,000 monthly Spotify listeners weeks earlier. Locals peered from restaurants and storefronts in bewilderment. “I haven’t seen anything like this since Madonna played Hell’s Kitchen,” one fan said in line, “and even that was half this size.”

Apple Music, Apple Music

The bathroom line at Ralphs, which was more than a five-minute walk away, was also packed. Fans chatted, giddy and glowing beside the frozen crab legs. Some had flown in from other states. Others had been waiting since 6 a.m. Several arrived without tickets and walked the entire length of the queue again and again, bargaining desperately. One man offered $10,000. No one budged. “Yeah, I don’t think so,” one fan said as a Mini Cooper rolled by with a license plate reading PAWSUP.

About two hours after doors opened, the slow-moving line finally filtered into the venue. Fans in leather, latex, and trompe l’oeil nude suits (one man had repurposed a Korn T-shirt to read “BOЯN THiS WAY”) took their seats. Those who had waited since dawn sprinted to the front, stretching their arms toward the stage to test their proximity. They’d likely never be this close to Gaga again. “Little moooonsters,” a voice teased over the PA. An Apple Music spokesperson explained that the performance was being filmed for a future stream and invited the audience into the “creative process,” noting that Gaga might rerun certain songs. Of course, she didn’t need to.

Just after 9 p.m., the curtain rose, the room inhaled, and Gaga appeared. The roar that followed sounded like a building catching fire.

She was dressed in Elizabethan mourning attire: black lace, a long platinum-blonde ponytail, a gothic pilgrim silhouette. A black veil obscured her face. A drone swelled, and the stage revealed itself as a ruined cathedral: broken columns, crumbled stone, shattered stained glass, pipe organs rising from rubble.

Throughout the show, Gaga played it uncharacteristically straight. The set design was high goth, pure camp, but she remained cool: Sunn O))) filtered through The Rocky Horror Picture Show. The costume changes were subtle, almost beside the point. The point was the music: the synths, the guitar, the drones, the screams. This was Lady Gaga, Nine Inch Nails stan.

She performed MAYHEM in full, reworking each track into darker, moodier forms. Fans later called it a “funeral for Mayhem,” which felt right: a deliberate burial of an era. “Don’t Call Tonight” debuted live. “Die With a Smile” returned in a new form, built around the instrumental of Kavinsky’s “Nightcall.” The staging remained mostly static, but the lighting — lasers, smoke, neon, shifting color — gave the stage a restless pulse.

Gaga stayed in character throughout, whether for artistic reasons, technical ones, or because her performance would be released as a standalone viewing experience by Apple Music. What was clear was her musicianship. This wasn’t spectacle-first Gaga. This was structure-first, sound-first, instrument-first Gaga.

For much of the show, her back was turned to the audience. “I’ve never seen anyone do that,” said the guy next to me who, apparently, had never heard of Cameron Winter. One of the few moments of overt interaction came during “Abracadabra,” when Gaga led a clap-and-singalong. She looked like a nun performing sacrilege.

Her microphone couldn’t quite contain her voice. The sound was slightly gated, imperfect in a way that felt human and charming. It’s rare to see a pop star of this magnitude scaled down like this: no dancers, just a few band members. She played four instruments — piano, church organ, synthesizer, guitar — sometimes using vocoders, sometimes letting her voice cut through raw. She sang, always, from the chest. Despite the slightly degraded sound, the show felt as mechanical, industrious, and self-contained as a Broadway production. Bend the rules and give this woman a Tony.

Near the end, she turned to face the crowd. She waved. She bowed with the band several times. “Can’t Stop the High” played as the curtain fell. Gaga had buried MAYHEM. Then, she left.

Double Tap to Zoom

You're reading Shopper: Highsnobiety's bulletin on what’s taking up headspace from the marketplace. Below is an edit of May 5's newsletter, in which Shopping Editor Max Migowski eyes eyewear. Subscribe here, or head to the Shopping tab for more recs.

On Fashion's Eye-dentity Crisis

In my life, two things have proven true: The first cut's the deepest, and the best sunglasses are the cheapest. Ish.

Over the years, I have spent considerable amounts of money on sunglasses, in addition to the many luxe samples my line of work has provided me. The only common denominator these shades share aside from hefty retail price tags, however, is that I no longer own a single pair of them, having either lost or ruined each and every one not long into our respective time together. 

Is this my fault more than that of these fancy sunglasses? Perhaps. Yet despite the obvious lessons to be learned about the caretaking of possessions, regardless of their quality, my eventual shift from expensive to cheap sunnies has been rewarded with more compliments and higher satisfaction than I should be allowed to dish in the shopping newsletter for a style magazine. 

As a matter of fact, my most treasured and frequently commented-on pair is a set that I spent a whopping $7 on at a rest stop somewhere in Georgia from one of those wheeled rotating stands. They're Oakley-esque but brandless, super lightweight but sturdy — somehow rubbery even — and I swear my vampire pupils have never felt so relaxed in broad daylight. There's no mind-fucky discoloration of what I'm glancing at either, and they double as a hair band for unruly curls without surprise-sliding from scalp to nose at the merest tilt of my head. 

God knows I'd gladly have paid a decent sum to enjoy the benefits listed above — and so would anyone, I'd venture. But buying sunglasses mustn't be a gas station versus savings account conundrum if you're abiding by the right criteria, a majority of which I've already listed. 

As a recent trip to Lake Como made painfully apparent, a lot of the fashion industry's most respected brands have regrettably little eyewear game and should be held responsible for some of the gaudiest frames I ever did see. Blame it on licensing deals, labels’ logo-ladden attention-seeking, or rich folks’ poor judgement — those giant acetate goggles aren't doing anybody any favors. After all, you want to look fly, not like one. 

Counter to what a quick scan of the crowd at Salone del Mobile might've suggested, Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy's signature ovals aren't the sole alternative to bug-like designer windshields, cute as they are. What makes good sunglasses great is not about extreme or trendy silhouettes (nor is it necessary to access the metaverse by wearing them). Instead, it really does boil down to stone-cold convenience in every which way.

A trusty Ray-Ban, I'd argue, is rarely-if-ever a miss; its Daddy-O and Olympian I styles especially are courting me right now, with their slender black optics and vast compatibility across everything from sporty to suave ensembles. The same can be said of Port Tanger's Tangerine, or Jacques Marie Mage's Clemens — all somewhat classic guises that welcome an occasional clash too, right up there with my personal knack for, say, preppy clothes with speedy shades.

Be careful with tinted lenses. I love them as much as the next guy, but at some point they resemble window-grade faux-reading glasses. You'll be thankful for a polarized model's lessened glare if what you want is a useful accessory, not just a pretty one. 

Tired of those vintage Guccis that half of Copenhagen’s been sporting for multiple summers straight, or those tiny Berlin-y Matrix ones I'm not sure even fully cover an iris? Same! Cutler and Gross, Gentle Monster, and CHIMI each do a flavor of timeless-contemporary with an edge, rather than anything so contemporary that they’re practically date-stamped.

If eyes are the windows to the soul, then there's no shame in a little extra zhuzhing-up (and protecting) of them, and who am I to tell you, really, what shape that should take? And yet, subjective as an individual's taste may be, there is a difference between decoration and distraction… And as for one last piece of advice: Just try not to sit on your sunnies. Not even the most sacred souvenir shop holy grail pair can take that kind of pressure in stride.

Open Tabs

EVERYTHING WE'VE GOT OUR EYES ON RIGHT NOW:

  • I know with the hotter season approaching, buying jackets isn't top of mind. But for this silken Ssstein, you may want to make an expectation. 

  • Or for this Dries Van Noten fellow, for something that's both workwear-y and summer-colored.

  • Cannot get this white Bottega Veneta slipper out of my head, but not sure I can pull it off. Wdyt?

  • Maybe Prada's pearly lace-up America's Cup would be easier to execute?

  • Not into white shoes? How about some baby blue adidas Mary Jane Sambas instead?

  • Acne Studios’ kitten heel flip-flops eclipse whatever sad beach flats you thought you were rocking up in. I’m not big on logos, but the Swedes’ new font slays on a polo also, just saying. 

  • Come June, people will be living in these barrel-leg linen pants by COS.

  • GAP's doing really well I hear, and its sale on unfussy staples like boxy tees, oversized hoodies, and linen flannels sure does its part in supporting that ascension.

  • These Nike socks aren't ideal for open-toe footwear, nor would I want to conceal their cool Swoosh in a sneaker, so consider wearing them to all the parties at shoes-off households you can find.

  • And finally, why don't you make sure your bottoms are buckled up tight, courtesy of this Carhartt belt?

Highsnobiety has affiliate marketing partnerships, which means we may receive a commission from your purchase.

Double Tap to Zoom

Every December, Miami turns into an experimental lifestyle playground remixing art, fashion, design, and music. But over the weekend, Highsnobiety and Apple Music staged a mind-bending moment the likes of which Miami Art Week has never seen: The Replay Gallery, two days of programming that fused gallery, symposium, and dance floor into a single frequency.

Apple Replay, Apple Music’s year-end portrait of your top artists, songs, and the patterns behind them, served as the starting point for The Replay Gallery: a group exhibition that brought together a diverse group of global artists — Angel Otero, Calida Rawles, Devon Turnbull, Gabriel Moses, Henry Taylor, Jeremy Deller, Sara Sadik, and Tommy Malekoff — whose work encapsulated the year in music. 

The invite-only exhibition opening on December 5 attracted rapper Offset, singer Khalid, artist Rachel Korine, model Alana Champion, artist Chris Cadaver, model Salem Mitchell, Mets third baseman Mark Vientos, and DJ and music producer Kitty Ca$h, all while rapper and artist Kilo Kish served up her American Gurl Burgers

Stepping inside the gallery, one found the treasure trove of meaningful work from the spotlighted artists. Deller’s 2018 film Everybody in the Place: An Incomplete History of Britain 1984–1992 turned a high school lecture into a crash course on the sociopolitical conditions that birthed electronic music. A graphic mapping the connections between place, genre, and movement hung beside it like a blueprint for rave culture.

Offset, Khalid
Kendal Walker, Kendal Walker

Two Los Angeles painters hung in dialogue: Rawles’ Echo My Moonlight (2020), a woman floating underwater, that feeling of being submerged in a dreamy track; next to it, Henry Taylor’s 2025 Untitled painting, a figure in sunglasses clutching a red electric guitar.

Tommy Malekoff’s two-channel video imagined the promise and collapse of Detroit, Memphis, and Galveston, Texas — three American cities situated by water and consumed by industry. Jetskis rip through dolphin-filled waters under a ghostly green light as Rafael Anton Irisarri’s soundtrack builds pressure. “I got lost in it,” said Khalid, fresh from presenting the Art Basel Award for Best New Artist the night before. “It felt really immersive. I just stopped, and it was like no one was around me. I really took it in, and it felt very visceral, very beautiful.”

Kayra Theodore
Kendal Walker
1 / 4

Elsewhere, Gabriel Moses showed a tight image pulled from his music video “Chains & Whips,” Clipse and Kendrick Lamar’s meditation on luxury, power, and their moral cost. “We’d done these slit scans, because I like the concept of stretching images and stretching people's faces, like an image wrapped around so you see the whole of a human being in one frame,” Moses said.

Puerto Rican painter Angel Otero contributed The Sea, a large-scale work of a lone black piano staying afloat amid violent waves. “I like how beautiful the artwork is,” said Vientos. “I could see that there's a deeper meaning with that painting.”

Devon Turnbull installed his sculptural OJAS speakers in partnership with sound system designers NNNN, flanking The Replay Gallery’s stage. “These speakers are part of a series of pro audio speakers that we build regularly for high-end nightclubs and live music, as well as listening,” Turnbull said.

Sara Sadik showed La Potion (EH) (2023), a single-channel video narrated by a gamer testing a new avatar — voiced by Sadik’s husband — that plays like a digital inner monologue about emotions as one plays, accompanied by an inflated snake-like seating element named from a line in Ninho’s “OG.” “I really want to bring some French culture to these countries,” said Sadik. “I really just want people to be curious about the title, typing it, seeing what it is, listening to it, to give some curiosity.”

The next day, The Replay Gallery opened to the public for three talks. Turnbull opened with Listening Closely, a deep look into the tracks that shaped his evolution from fashion designer to sonic artist. “I'm the guy who, [when people ask], What kind of music do you listen to? I say, Everything,” Turnbull said in conversation with Highsnobiety branded content editor Jason Meggyesy, tracing influences from the Abbey Road master tape medley to Arvo Pärt’s “Fratres” with Keith Jarrett, and Nala Sinephro’s “Space 2.”

Later, Sadik joined Highsnobiety deputy editor Claire Landsbaum for Symphotic Interiors, discussing her practice and working with youth from France’s North African diaspora, known as Maghrebi. “My work is about vulnerability, their life experiences, their emotions,” Sadik told the audience. “They are super vulnerable during the process within the video, and when the video is shown in the show, like super vulnerable. So I really take care of having them be super comfortable with everything.”

Mazzy Joya
Kendal Walker
1 / 4

The final talk, I See A New World, paired Moses with Highsnobiety fashion director Sebastian Jean for a conversation about his career and making his work accessible beyond the room. “There's a million people that aren't going to come out tonight,” Moses said. “There's a kid in Nigeria that needs to feel that work, and I feel like that's the only way the work and what I'm trying to say can be communicated in a way that's accessible.”

At 7pm, the gallery went dark, the lights reset, and the room transformed into a dance floor for the closing party. The line stretched around the block. Inside, the crowd closed out the week with music progeny Julez Smith and Selah Marley, models Mazzy Joya and Indira Scott, and TikTok personality Jay Guapõ. France’s next wave — the multidisciplinary artist and DJ Crystallmess — opened with tracks like Depeche Mode’s “Enjoy the Silence” before cutting into the extended remix of Ready for the World’s “Love You Down.” The crowd lost it to Playboii Sony’s “Tou Chaje,” then bounced in unison to every bar of Waka Flocka Flame’s “No Hands.”

Then the icon took over: Detroit’s Kenny Dixon Jr., known as Moodymann. “Whaddupdoe,” he said, greeting the crowd with Detroit’s signature welcome, before taking them on a journey through music history — James Brown’s “I’m Satisfied,” The Beatles’ “Come Together”, Kelis’s “Millionaire,” Patrice Rushen’s “Haven’t You Heard,” before closing the night with Led Zeppelin’s “Stairway to Heaven.” “Don’t you ever let nobody tell you who the f*ck you are, because ain’t nobody in that mirror but you,” he preached to the crowd in the middle of his set. “And if you ever want to see one of the baddest motherf*ckers on the planet, just look in the mirror.” 

Two days, eight artists, three talks, and one dancefloor — The Replay Gallery turned the year in music into an environment that thought, moved, and breathed, inviting visitors to reflect on their own identity through the work that moved them and the sounds that defined their year.

We Recommend
  • Apple Music's The Replay Gallery Was a Creative Tour de Force
  • The Replay Gallery Is This Year's Must-See at Miami Art Week
  • Inside Apple Music Studios: A High-Touch Bet on Intimacy (EXCLUSIVE)
  • MUBI’s Lurker Declares “Fan Boy Fall”
What To Read Next
  • This Stained adidas Skinny Sneaker Isn't Afraid of a Little Spillage
  • Vans' Sun-Soaked Authentic Sneaker Is a Total Dream(Sicle)
  • New Balance’s Silver Dad Sandal Is a Natural-Born Summer Stunner
  • adidas’ Slimmed-Out Sneaker Has Never Looked More Cutesy
  • adidas Turns Its Best Mary Jane Sneaker Into the Coolest 'Toy Story' Flex
  • Nike's Vibram-Soled Air Force 1 Looks Good Even When It's Feeling Grey