I wouldn't suggest using an aftermarket shock and spring on one corner and staying stock on the other three.

To address cost, all you would need to buy would be a replacement OEM Shock.

I presume no damage has been done to the spring.

As far as labor is concerned it would probably be around 250.00 to have the shock replaced (this is under the assumption that an alignment would be required).

That is the extent of my very limited knowledge. Hope it helps.

 

Let me know if you want to order a OEM strut.

PM sent :approve:

 

You should probably order the rear strut in PAIRS, to compensate for any wear that your non-broken shock has exhibited.

 

I have a bunch of oem struts that i could send for free, just pay shipping. You would need to knock the perch off the old shock and install it on the shock i send u.

 

I have read a few places that installation of an upside down perch can cause ride height issues. This may be a dumb question, but what exactly is the "perch"? In this guys case, why is it important to use the old perch? I know these maybe newb questions, but I'm trying to narrow down a few things on my own...

 

Thanks for the info so far everyone, its definitely helpful.

Silver5spd....I might take you up on that, thats hella nice of you man!

Is this something I could change out on my own? I am pretty "mechanical", just never messed with suspension? Any special tools required? How many hours are we talking about to replace two rear struts?

 

you would need to rent/buy a spring compressor to aid you in removing the spring off the leaking shock and install it onto the new one. you can rent these at autozone or maybe an equivalent in your area. i also second that you replace shocks in pairs. since one is leaking the others probably aren't far behind, so i would recommend you replace all four. tokico blue shocks are fairly cheap and reliable if you want to stay close to stock specs and not shell out a bunch of cash. search around using froogle.com search example "tokico blue is300" to get some price comparisons. good luck!

 

Is using a spring compressor tough/dangerous? Also, is there a lot of work to be done to get to be able to remove the strut/spring?

Thanks guys - keep the info coming haha.

 

I have done my suspension several times, all you have to do is be patient and maybe read up some of the threads around here regarding suspension diy.

Comprossors are kinda scary but if you take your time and go slow you will be able to do it safely and correctly.

 

Hello to all I HAVE 2007 IS350 , CAR WAS LOWERED AND I DONT REALLY LIKE IT LOWERED DUE TO POT HOLES ISSUES. is anybody selling therE OEM STRUTS ASSEMBLY.?

 

Strut replacement on Lexus IS250

I found very little on replacing the shocks and struts on a 2008 Lexus IS250. I thought I would write a little about my experience on it.
My wife’s 2008 Lexus IS 250 had the right rear shock go out. Loud thumps on bumpy roads, bottoming out, and dirt all over the shock.
Lexus wanted 650 dollars to replace it and that was only 1 shock.
So I went online and was going to get the Tokico Blue’s. But the guy told me the KYB Gas Adjust were every bit as good and I saved over 200 dollars. So I bought the entire set. 2 fronts and 2 rears. The front struts have a left and a right. The rears are identical.
I started with the fronts and since I was in there I did the brakes all around as well. It was a little easier removing the rotors because it gave me a little more room to work. I used a metal wire to hold the caliper up so no to place too much tension on the brake line.
So removing the front struts was pretty easy. But remove the entire assembly and reassemble it on a work bench. There was 1 bolt holding the bottom of the strut on and I removed the bolt from the ball joint holding the spindle in place. Then from inside the engine bay you have to remove all the plastic covering and then you can release the three nuts on the top of the strut tower holding it in place. It slipped right out.
Now this I did not do because I did it late at night and did not have the parts but there is a rubber boot covering the hydraulic cylinder. I did not replace it because I did not have the foresight to order the part. In hind sight I would order 2 and replace them because they are almost certainly worn and torn.
Rent the strut compression tool. It will make it easier. You will need it to safely take the strut spring apart safely. To take it apart there is only 1 nut holding he assembly together. It is under tension so make sure you have the strut compression tool on.
Once the assembly is assembled slip it into place and insert the three bolts on the top of the strut through the strut tower. And finger tighten them on. I was able to slip the bottom of the strut onto and on the lower arm. I had to use a jack to rise the assemble to get it to line up so I could get the bolt through.
Once I got it through I was able to put the ball joint back on the spindle. So I was banging on things quite a bit and nicked the threads on the ball joint and the nut did not thread on very easily. Also the ball joint holding the spindle on has a bolt that spins. So you need an impact gun to tighten it properly.
Have the car aligned after you are done.
The rears were more difficult to figure out. I had to remove all the covers in the trunk. Then I was able to get access to the top of the struts. Then I had to remove the rear wheels and I had to remove the splash covers from the inter wheel well. Then I was able to remove the two bolts that secured the metal covers covering the hydraulic cylinders. The car had independent rear suspension and it is under tension and after a lot of fiddling found it was necessary to remove the rear lower control arm. I could not break the nut loose on the spindle and it was easier to remove the arm from the bolt attaching it to the car. Then the assembly came apart quite easily.
You will need a strut compression tool to safely pull the assembly apart. Putting the assembly together was similar to the fronts. One putting it back together it was tricky getting it into the car. I had a hard time getting it into the grove on the lower control arm. Abut after 10 min of lowering and raising I was able to get it to slide into place.

Main points-
Front remove nut holding the spindle in place
Front get the compression tool.
Front get replacement rubber boots
Rears take the lower control arm off from the bolt attaching it to the vehicle

I think the KYB GAS ADJUST struts ride quite nice. If you want something slightly better than stock, these will suit your needs.

 

Thats a great how to replace shock and strut explanation. Thanks for that.
How do those KYB Gas Adjust feel?
Are they damp from the road or more like stiff struts?