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MUCH easier S2R pipemod method--core your pipes in 45 minutes! HOW-TO WITH PIX!

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44K views 90 replies 42 participants last post by  Mishulan  
#1 ·
I found an extremely fast, easy method for coring S2R, S2R-1000, S4R, and S4RS pipes!  It eliminates the first few steps of the "old" procedure and it's so easy it's scary.  Here it is:

Step 1:  Use a chop-saw (don't be scared) to cut the endcaps off about 3/8" past the visible portion of the encap.  (About 1/2 way between the beginning of the aluminum sleeve and the "D" in Ducati stamped onto the cans.)  What you are doing is leaving enough of the unseen portion of the endcap flange inside to insure a snug fit and to accomodate rivets when you reattach them.  The endcap, internal plate, and main muffler body all separate and fall right into your hands!
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Step 2:  Slide off the aluminum skins.  (I painted mine black with high-temp while they were off, and it looks AWESOME on my silver and black S2R!)

Step 3:  Use a Dremel and cut-off wheels to cut off the pipe (previously exiting the can through the exhaust tip) as far down as possible.
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Step 4:  Use a file or deburring wheel on your Dremel to clean up the edges where the chopsaw made the cut.  Slide everything back together.

Step 5:  Drill and rivet the endcaps back on.
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That's it!  I pulled my mufflers off at 8:00 a.m. this morning and was riding my much better sounding Monster by 9:30 and most of that time was killed by waiting for multiple coats of high-temp paint to dry enough to handle.  The actual work time was about 45 minutes.  Honest.

TECH NOTE:  This procedure shortens the cans by 1/2 inch, which is really tough to notice, even if you are looking for it.  It also enables you to leave the endcap as-is with the inner pipe and ring still intact, which I personally prefer.  It looks totally stock, and there is no need to use paint (or exhaust soot, eventually) to disguise the ugly gaping hole in the endcap with the three pipes inside.  Sure, I guess it's technically more restrictive, but the end result is still a huge improvement in sound quality and is far less restrictive than the stock E3 compliant cans.  And, if you prefer, you could easily cut off the inner weld and punch them out if you wanted to, as they are now totally accessible and there is no need to try and finesse your Dremel from the outside in.
They sound soooooooo good, deep and rumbly, without being obnoxious.  And the best thing about it is, it's even easier than it sounds--as opposed the old way, this mod practically does itself!
And now my friends, it's wheelie time! [thumbsup]
 
#2 ·
Re: MUCH easier S2R pipemod method--core your pipes in 45 minutes!

Nice work [thumbsup] Now just get some collectors to get rid of the udder & you'll be good to go. I highly reccomend the Spark set-up!
 
#3 ·
Re: MUCH easier S2R pipemod method--core your pipes in 45 minutes!

I'll get some better pictures, these really aren't great. They actually look fantastic and sound even better. ;D
 
#5 ·
Re: MUCH easier S2R pipemod method--core your pipes in 45 minutes!

EvilSteve said:
Nice work dude. :) You should get a cat replacement mid-pipe in there though dude. ;)
That will be my next, and probably one of the last mods to this awesome bike. The mid-pipes, a couple of carbon bits, and I think I'll be looking at the Perfect Monster. If only I could afford those pesky Ohlins...
 
#7 ·
TheBeast said:
Wheres the best place to get the spark set-up?
Desmoworld
 
#8 ·
WOW, thanx for letting us in on this, I'm doing mine hopefully this week, just one question that I'll throw out there to anyone is- Has anyone polished the aluminum skins and how do they look? Pics?
Ride AND drive safe, we just lost three kids [16-17 years old] in the county that I live in the last two weeks and one was my neighbors' kid. They were not motorcycle related but still....so young.... :'(Haywired
 
#9 ·
Haywired said:
WOW, thanx for letting us in on this  :'(Haywired
No problema, dude. :)
 
#10 ·
Has anyone polished the aluminum skins and how do they look? Pics?
That alu polishes up pretty easily. This is a 996 can, but same deal. I started with a sanding wheel on a angle grinder to knock out the stampings, then progressively finer grits on a random orbit sander to about 320 IIRC, and finished up with a wool pad and buffing compound on a drill motor.



 
#13 ·
Spidey said:
Definitely adding this one to the pipemod FAQ.   [thumbsup]
Awesome, thanks!
 
#14 ·
Do you suppose this process would be similar on a 2000 750 Dark?

ANd since you have painted the cans have you had any problems with smell or discoloration?

THey look sweet.
 
#17 ·
When you guys have painted your cans.....(that sounds funky) did you just use a good quality stove or fireplace, or maybe manifold paint, or have you seen some that didnt work so well?
 
#18 ·
mondark said:
When you guys have painted your cans.....(that sounds funky) did you just use a good quality stove or fireplace, or maybe manifold paint, or have you seen some that didnt work so well?
I used 1200-degree flat, but I'm thinking of re-shooting in satin.
 
#20 ·
Re: MUCH easier S2R pipemod method--core your pipes in 45 minutes! HOW-TO WITH

[thumbsup] GREAT how-to! But it works on standard swinger bikes too!

I read this method last night applied it to my second can to be chopped. The first can was done in the tried and true methods. These methods caused the end of the sleeve to be bent/chipped, the inlet pipe to be bent and misshapen. I used your, and much easier method and took 1/3 the time, no damage was caused, and bike/rider are happier.

Pics of this process can be found above, the same process applies.

1: remove can from bike
2: remove hanger from can
3: mark can where shortening cut will be made
4: clamp can in chop saw, aligning blade to hack about 6mm from end of aluminum sleeve
5: chop away
6: holding end cap by the round part (wearing glove to prevent burns) smack the pipe in the cap with a ballpeen hammer against the would be exhaust flow. This will remove all the guts of the end cap. (at this point you could grind the welds and pull the ring from the end cap making the exit a larger diameter. I left mine there) Champher edges of cap with file or grinder.
7: reclamp the can in the chop saw at the desired length
8: chop away
9: slip aluminum cover down till it contacts inlet pipe
10: reclamp the can in chop saw aligning blade to remove visable internal portion of the can
11: chop away... again
12: slip aluminum cover back to it's normal place.
13: put end cap back on the end of the can, using a rubber hammer to help motivate things a bit
14: drill and pop-rivit end cap to aluminum cover.
15: replace mounting flange and bolts
16: replace can onto bike
17: rinse and repeat

I know this was down and dirty, but if you have any questions, refer above.
fin
 
#21 ·
Re: MUCH easier S2R pipemod method--core your pipes in 45 minutes! HOW-TO WITH

Ducati Pilot, Did you need to re-map your system after you did it. The problem i have is that i want to do this cheap, yet there is no PCIII availible for the Rs yet. It will void my warrenty if chop/core and dont re-map it. I called the dealer today. Plus the PCIII probably aint cheap, so there truely is no cheap way. I'll have to take off my mufflers and just drive up and down my street like i did last night ;D
 
#22 ·
Re: MUCH easier S2R pipemod method--core your pipes in 45 minutes! HOW-TO WITH

Duke Dave said:
Ducati Pilot, Did you need to re-map your system after you did it.  The problem i have is that i want to do this cheap, yet there is no PCIII availible for the Rs yet.  It will void my warrenty if chop/core and dont re-map it.  I called the dealer today.  Plus the PCIII probably aint cheap, so there truely is no cheap way.  I'll have to take off my mufflers and just drive up and down my street like i did last night ;D
No.  If you did not do any sort of airbox mod you will be fine.  I was actually hoping to get a LITTLE bit of burble and fart on decel (due to a lean condition) after coring my cans but I didn't.  This isn't the most scientific method of determing a lean running bike, but it's actually a pretty damned accurate indicator.  I have resisted the urge to do an airbox mod due to the inability of DynoJet to get a PC-3 to market for the S2R-1000.  I spoke to a very knowledgeable tech at DynoJet two days ago, and he said they are working on it, but when they try to map in (or out!) the O2 sensor that the bike runs great for a brief period and then seems to mysteriously go MEGA rich for no apparent reason.  Stay tuned.
As for your dealer, mine is pretty laid back and understands that this mod makes very little difference in the trim of the ECU.  He also told me (and this get's sticky, don't try this at home, performed on a closed course by professional riders only, void where prohibited) that Ducati Spa. fully expects modification to Monsters and really seems to (historically) evaluate warranty claims in a reasonable fashion.  Hopefully, we will not ever have to test this.
So for now, I'll deprive myself of a lovely induction racket until someone comes up with a way to chip these bitches.  ARE YOU LISTENING DUCATI--HOW ABOUT AN E-PROM HERE!  THROW US LOYAL BASTARDS A BONE, WILL 'YA? :'(
 
#23 ·
Re: MUCH easier S2R pipemod method--core your pipes in 45 minutes! HOW-TO WITH

wakaba said:
[thumbsup]  GREAT how-to!  But it works on standard swinger bikes too!

I read this method last night applied it to my second can to be chopped.  The first can was done in the tried and true methods.  These methods caused the end of the sleeve to be bent/chipped, the inlet pipe to be bent and misshapen.  I used your, and much easier method and took 1/3 the time, no damage was caused, and bike/rider are happier. 

fin
Beautiful. This is what good boards/lists are all about. Or should be. [clap]
 
#24 ·
I've heard today that pods and cored cans can be tuned in by a simple dealer performed ECU trim. Is this within parameters? Anyone ever do this successfully?
 
#26 ·
Re: MUCH easier S2R pipemod method--core your pipes in 45 minutes! HOW-TO WITH

Ducati Pilot said:
Step 1: Use a chop-saw (don't be scared) to cut the endcaps off about 1/2" past the visible portion of the encap. (About 1/2 way between the beginning of the aluminum sleeve and the "D" in Ducati stamped onto the cans.)
For anyone out there considering this. I just tried, and it is exactly an inch between the endcap and the start of the D in Ducati. I would recommend cutting 3/8's of an inch from the endcap. I just tried 1/2 an inch, and it cut into the exhaust end, and didn't cut off those brackets that hold the cap on. so now i have to fight with broken dremel bits to get the end of the exhaust out of the cap. Look at the other S*R pipemod for more info. (Something else i didn't do)
 


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