HACK IT JACKET SEPTEMBER 2023 English

HACK IT JACKET

RAGLAN EDITION SEPTEMBER 2023

rilleruth

Yarn:

Vams by Rauma Garn

Amount of yarn:

9 (10) 12 (13) 15 skeins. Keep in mind that the use of

different “hacks”

might change the total amount of yarn. The quantity given here refers only to the basic instruction.

Sizes:

1 (2) 3 (4) 5. The pictured jacked is worked in size 3. The model has a chest circumference of 96 cm.

Measurements:

Chest circumference approx. 109 (115) 123 (129) 137. Sleeve width 34 (38) 41 (45) 48 cm. Inner sleeve length approx. 49 cm (individually adjustable). Total length excl. ribbing at neckline approx. 44 (46) 48 (50) 52 cm (individually adjustable). Keep in mind that changes regarding the measurements may result in a different total amount of yarn.

Recommended needles:

Circular needle 4 mm (80 and 30 cm). Circular needle 5 mm (80 and 40 cm). You can skip the short 40 and 30 cm circular needles, when working with dpns or the Magic loop method. The needle size is just a recommendation. Please knit a gauge swatch first!

Gauge:

17 stitches x 27 rows in stockinette stitch on needle 5 mm =10 x 10 cm. 20 stitches x 27 rows in rib on needle 4 mm =10 x 10 cm.

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2

CONTENT

With the Hack it Jacket you can design your very own cardigan by making simple changes to the basic instructions. Different "hacks" described in the instructions help you to create exactly the expression you want in your jacket. The variations range from different yarn compositions to altered constructions on the sleeves and neckline. Only your imagination sets the limits here. First, I want to mention that not all hacks are equally compatible. Most things are possible, but some "hack" combinations are more challenging than others. If you face technical challenges in combining different hacks, please feel free to contact us. Basic pattern

……………………………………………………………………………………..

.............................. p. 4 Hack #1 Y

arn…………..…………………………………………………………………………………………….

. p. 7 Hack #2 Gauge

………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

p. 9 Hack #3 Cables

…………………………………………………………………………………………………….

. p. 10 Hack #4 Sleeves

…………………………………………………………………………………………………….

.. p. 15 Hack #5 Neckline

………………………………………………………………………….…………………….….

p. 16 Hack #6 Body

…………………………………………………………………………………………………

.......... p. 18 Hack #7 Length

…………………………………………………………………………………………………….

... p. 21 Hack #8 Structure

…………………………………………………………………………………………………

..... p. 22 Hack #9 Stripes

……………………………………………………………………………………………………

... p. 26 Hack #10 Edges

…………………………………………………………………………………………………

...

….

p. 28 Hack #11 Finish

………………………………………………………………………...……………………………

p. 31 Hack #12 Pockets

……………………………………………………………………………………………………

p. 34

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3 Hack It Jacket

–

The basic instruction is a classic cardigan with simple raglan increases.


4

BASIC INSTRUCTION

The basic instruction of the Hack It Jacket is a very classic raglan cardigan, which has a slightly wider fit at the body. It is worked top down in Vams by Rauma. First you work the ribbing at the neckline. Then short rows are worked on the front piece, including raglan increases for the sleeves. The sleeves are then worked with decreases, before both the body and sleeves end with ribbed cuffs. Finally, you pick up stitches for the front bands.

Neckline:

The jacket is worked in rows. Selvedge stitches: The edge sts can be worked with your preferred method. At the pictured model, the 1

st

and last st are k sts

, also at the ribbing at the neckline, i.e., the row’s last

2 sts are k sts. For identical sides, cast on 1 additional st (e.g., on the back piece), which is not necessary, as the picked up front bands hide the edges.

1. Cast on 82 (82) 86 (86) 90 sts on a 4 mm (80 cm) circular needle. 2. Work 4 cm in rib (k1, p1). 3. Purl 1 row, while working the sts onto a 5 mm circular needle. At the same time, decrease evenly spread 4 sts for

size 1

, 2 sts for

size 2

, don’t work any de

- or increases for

size 3

, increase 2 sts for

size 4

and 4 sts for

size 5

.

You are now in a rs-row and you will now place stm.

4. Mark the jacket as follows: 15 (15) 16 (16) 17 sts (left front), 1 marked st, 4 (5) 6 (7) 8 sts (left sleeve), 1 marked st, 36 (36) 38 (38) 40 sts (back piece), 1 marked st, 4 (5) 6 (7) 8 sts (right sleeve), 1 marked st, 15 (15) 16 (16) 17 sts (right front).

Raglan increases and short rows:

You will now work short rows at the front piece, while at the same time, raglan increases are worked on both sides of each marked st, every rs-row. The increases and turns can be worked wi

th your preferred method. See: “Tips and tricks”

for further information

.

5. Work in stockinette stitch through to the 4

th

marked st (remember the raglan increases at every marked st). 6. K2 at front piece (excl. the last increase). 7. Work the 1

st

turn. 8. Purl and turn work, once you worked 2 sts into the front piece on opposite side (excl. the last increase). Continue as explained. Once you reach the previous turns, turn work on both sides 1 st further into front piece, then 1 st further, again 1 st further, once more 1 st further, then 2 sts further on both sides, then 3 sts further and finally, work the complete row (remember the raglan increases at every marked st).

The short rows are finished now and you have worked 8 increases at every marked st. You have in total 142 (144) 150 (152) 158 sts on the needle, divided as follows: 23 (23) 24 (24) 25 sts/ front piece, 52 (52) 54 (54) 56 sts/ back piece and 20 (21) 22 (23) 24 sts/ sleeve and 1 marked st in between the pieces (in total 4 marked sts).

9. Continue with the increases every rs-row a further 17 (19) 21 (23) 25 times. 10. End with a ws-row.

You have worked in total 25 (27) 29 (31) 33 increases and you have 278 (296) 318 (336) 358 sts on the needle, divided as follows: 40 (42) 45 (47) 50 sts/ front piece, 86 (90) 96 (100) 106 sts/back piece and 54 (59) 64 (69) 74 sts/ sleeve and 1 marked st in between the pieces (in total 4 marked sts). Place the sleeve sts on hold now.

11. Work left front piece sts and place left sleeve sts on hold on a cable needle (the marked sts are now body sts). 12. Cast on 4 (5) 6 (7) 8 sts at the armhole opening. 13. Work back piece sts. 14. Place right sleeve sts on hold on cable needle, as explained above. 15. Work right front piece sts.

You have now 178 (188) 202 (212) 226 sts on the needle.

Body:

16. Continue working in stockinette stitch, until the jacket measures 25 cm, measured below the armhole openings or to desired length. Try on the jacket while knitting to determine your perfect length. End with a ws-row.

Change to a 4 mm (80 cm) circular needle.

17. Knit 1 row and increase 8 (16) 22 (30) 36 sts evenly spread. 18. Work 4 cm in rib (k1, p1). 19. Bind off all sts.

Sleeves:

20. With a 5 mm (40 cm) circular needle, pick up 4 (5) 6 (7) 8 sts at the bottom of the armhole opening.


21. Place 1 stm centre between or on the newly picked up sts at the armhole opening. 22. Work decreases on both sides of the stm every 3,5 cm, in total 12 times. Try on the jacket while knitting to determine your perfect sleeve length. You can easily work more/less decreases.


23. Work a further 3 cm in stockinette stitch or to desired length.


5

Change to a 4 mm needle (30 cm or 80 cm circular needle for the Magic Loop method or dpns).

24. Work 4 cm in rib (k1, p1). 25. Bind off all sts. 26. Work the 2

nd

sleeve the same way.

Front bands:

27. With a 4 mm (80 cm) circular needle, pick up 97 (101) 103 (107) 109 sts along right front edge (skip every approx. 4

th

st). 28. Work 4 rows in rib (k1, p1).

You are now working the button holes.

29. Work 6 (6) 6 (6) 6 sts, k2tog, yo, work 14 (15) 15 (16) 17 sts, k2tog, yo, work 14 (15) 16 (16) 17 sts, k2tog, yo, work 15 (15) 16 (17) 17 M sts, k2tog, yo, work 15 (16) 16 (17) 17 sts, k2tog, yo, work 15 (16) 16 (17) 17 sts, k2tog, yo, work 6 (6) 6 (6) 6 sts. 30. Work 4 rows in rib (k1, p1). 31. Bind off all sts. 32. Repeat step 27 at left front edge and work 9 rows in rib. Bind off all sts. 33. Sew the buttons to the left front band, opposite the button holes at the right front band.


6 I would love to see your finished results! Tag me with @rilleruth in your picture on Instagram or use the hashtags #hackitjacket and #rilleruth. Thank you for supporting my little business and my design dream. Please do not share or sell this pattern. You are welcome to sell the products made with this instruction. However, in sales advertisements, remember to mention the origin of the instruction or verbally to your customers. This way they can also but the instruction if they want to knit the product.

Tips and tricks

At www.rilleruth.com you can find video tutorials on how to work short rows and raglan increases.


7

HACK #1 YARN

Just by changing the yarn, a cardigan can get a completely different expression. Below is a list of yarn alternatives for this jacket, all of which have the same gauge. Needle sizes are also given for the different yarn types, but please remember that these are only suggestions. Knit a gauge swatch first, to check the measurements. For each alternative, you will also find an approximate amount of yarn calculated from the meterage and the amount of yarn needed for the basic instructions. If you want to use a yarn that is not listed here, give it a try! First check which gauge is given for the yarn in question. This information can usually be found on the label. Several of these alternatives can be used for hack #2, too, where different gauges are listed. For a gauge of 18 sts/ 10 cm you can use Air by Drops, Snefnug by CaMaRose and Bris by Viking. For a gauge of 16 and 15 sts/ 10 cm you can use Myk Påfugl by Dale, double thread Faerytale by Du Store Alpakka, Alpaca Bouclé and Flora by Drops, Pus by Du Store Alpakka and Hyrdegarn by Hjelholts Uldspinderi as an alternative.

Yarn: Børstet Alpakka by Sandnes garn Needle size: 4,5 mm

Amount of yarn: 7 (8) 9 (10) 12 skeins Yarn: Hip Wool by HipKnitShop Needle size: 5 mm Amount of yarn: 10 (11) 13 (14) 16 skeins Yarn: Påfugl by Dale Needle size: 5 mm Amount of yarn: 9 (10) 11 (12) 14 skeins Yarn: Double thread Faerytale by Du Store Alpakka Needle size: 4,5 mm Amount of yarn: 9 (10) 12 (13) 15 skeins

Yarn: 1 thread Friends Wool and double thread Friends Kid Silk by Hobbii Needle size: 5 mm Amount of yarn: 8 (9) 10 (11) 13 skeins Wool and 8 (9) 10 (11) 13 skeins Kid Silk

Yarn: Alpaca Boucle and Flora by Drops Needle size: 4,5 mm Amount of yarn: 6 (6) 7 (8) 9 skeins Alpaca Boucle and 4 (4) 5 (5) 6 skeins Flora


8

Yarn: Pus by Du Store Alpakka Needle size: 5 mm Amount of yarn: 8 (9) 10 (11) 13 skeins

Yarn: Air by Drops Needle size: 5 mm Amount of yarn: 5 (6) 7 (8) 9 skeins Yarn: Snefnug by CaMaRose Needle size: 5 mm Amount of yarn: 7 (8) 9 (10) 12 skeins Yarn: Bris by Viking Needle size: 5 mm Amount of yarn: 6 (7) 8 (9) 10 skeins Yarn: Hyrdegarn by Hjelholts Uldspinderi Needle size: 4,5 mm Amount of yarn: 6 (7) 8 (9) 10 skeins Yarn: Bella Mohair by Permin Needle size: 5 mm Amount of yarn: 5 (6) 7 (8) 9 skeins Yarn: Fritidsgarn by Sandnes Needle size: 4.5 mm Amount of yarn: 11 (12) 14 (16) 18 skeins Yarn: Hobbygarn by Viking Needle size: 5 mm Amount of yarn: 11 (12) 14 (16) 18 skeins

Yarn: Double thread Finull and 1 thread Plumby Rauma Needle size: 5 mm Amount of yarn: 9 (10) 12 (13) 15 skeins Finull and 3 (4) 4 (5) 5 skeins Plum


9

HACK #2 GAUGE

There are many reasons for wanting to change the gauge. Perhaps your size is not covered by the basic instruction or you have a yarn that you think would suit the jacket better. Below are 5 tables with 5 different gauges. In the middle table you will find the gauge of the basic instructions, in addition the gauges for 19 sts/10 cm, 18 sts/10 cm, 16 sts/10 cm and 15 sts/10 cm are listed. You can see how much the measurements of the jacket changes when you have 1 st more or less per 10 cm on the needles. If you want to use hack #2, you can to follow the basic instructions as described, just find the specific gauge or size you want. For example, if you want to knit a jumper with a slimmer body than 109 cm, you can adjust the gauge to 18 sts/10 cm and choose size 1. The gauge can also be adjusted to 19 sts/10 cm, in which case you can choose size 1 or 2. If you have found the perfect yarn and the gauge shows 16 sts/10 cm, but you don't want the jacket to be bigger, you can go down in size. In this case you can choose size 2 with the gauge of 16sts/10cm instead of size 3 for the gauge of 17 sts/10 cm. Note! If you change the gauge, you have to change the number of picked up stitches for the front bands. With more stitches/ 10 cm, you will have to pick up more stitches, with less stitches/ 10 cm, you will have to pick up less stitches. Work as explained in the basic instruction and pick up 1 stitch into each stitch, but skip approx. every 4

th

stitch. If the overall look is clean and even, the exact number of stitches does not matter. The button holes also need to be adjusted depending on the stitches picked up. Use the number in the basic instructions as a starting point.

Gauge 19 stitches = 10 cm 1 2 3 4 5 Sleeves

31 cm 34 cm 37 cm 40 cm 43 cm

Body

98 cm 104 cm 111 cm 116 cm 124 cm


32 cm 36 cm 39 cm 43 cm 46 cm

Body

104 cm 109 cm 117 cm 123 cm 131 cm


34 cm 38 cm 41 cm 45 cm 48 cm

Body

109 cm 115 cm 123 cm 129 cm 137 cm


37 cm 40 cm 44 cm 48 cm 52 cm

Body

115 cm 122 cm 130 cm 137 cm 145 cm


39 cm 43 cm 47 cm 51 cm 55 cm

Body

123 cm 130 cm 139 cm 146 cm 155 cm


10

HACK #3 CABLES

This hack involves working a cable pattern on both front pieces. Choose between A, B, C and D (see next page) or design your very own chart. The gauge shows the left front piece. Follow the basic instruction through to step 2. Thereafter, follow the instruction for your chosen chart: Chart 1: Place 1 stm each 13 sts from the edges on both sides. Chart 2: Place 1 stm each 14 sts from the edges on both sides. Chart 3: Place 1 stm each 14 sts from the edges on both sides. Chart 4: Place 1 stm each 14 sts from the edges on both sides.

Knit the stitches onto a 5 mm (80 cm) circular needle at step 3.

Step 3 chart 1:

-

Knit the first 3 sts. P9. K2. -

You are now at the 1

st

stm. Purl all sts in between the stm. At the same time, decrease 4 sts for

size 1

, 2 sts for

size

2, don’t work any in

- or decreases for

size 3


size 4

and 4 sts for

size 5

evenly spread. -


nd

stm. K2. P8. K3.

Step 3 charts 2 and 3:

-

Knit the first 3 sts. P9. K2. -


st


size 1

, 2 sts for

size

2, don’

t work any in- or decreases for

size 3


size 4

and 4 sts for

size 5

evenly spread. -


nd

stm. K2. P9. K3.

Step 3 chart 4:

-

Knit the first 3 sts. P2. K5. P2. K2. -


st


size 1

, 2 sts for

size

2, don’t work any in

- or decreases for

size 3


size 4

and 4 sts for

size 5

evenly spread. -


nd

stm. K2. P2. K5. P2. K3. Continue working the basic instruction from step 4- 8, but work in established cable pattern. This applies for the short rows, too. Start with chart A, B, C or D, once you reach step 9.


11

A B C D


12

A B


13

C D


14

The jacket is worked with the following hacks:

Hack #1: The jacket is worked with 1 thread Faerytale by Du Store Alpakka and 1 thread Flora by Drops. Hack #3D: The jacket is worked with cables. Hack #4B: The jacket is worked with balloon shaped sleeves. Hack #6B: The jacket is worked with short rows at the body, so that the back is longer. The short rows started approx. after 15 cm.

Size and amount of yarn:

The jacket is worked in size 5 with 9 skeins Faerytale and 8 skeins Flora.

or


15

HACK #4 SLEEVES

In this hack you will find a description of how the sleeves of the basic instruction can be worked as A) straight sleeves and as B) balloon shaped sleeves. Another simple way to change the sleeves is to adjust the length (hack #7C) or to work the ribbed cuffs with a different finish (hack #10).

A) Straight sleeves:

If you want to work your jacket’s sleeves without

decreases, but with straight sleeves, follow the basic instruction to step 20. Thereafter, work as follows: -

Work in stockinette stitch to the desired length. Try on the jacket to determine your perfect length. It is recommended you work the jacket slightly shorter than in the basic instruction, as long, straight sleeves might get in your way. -

Change to a 4 mm needle (30 cm or 80 cm circular needle for the Magic Loop method or dpns). -

Work 4 cm in rib (k1, p1). -

Bind off all sts. -

Work the 2

nd


B) Balloon shaped sleeves:

If you want to work your j

acket’s sleeves with balloon

shaped sleeves, follow the basic instruction to step 20. Thereafter, work as follows: -

Work 45 cm in stockinette stitch or to desired length. Try on the jacket to determine your perfect length. -

Work the complete round k2tog. -

Change to a 4 mm needle (30 cm or 80 cm circular needle for the Magic Loop method or dpns). -

Work 4 cm in rib (k1, p1). -

Bind off all sts. -

Work the 2

nd


or


16

HACK #5 NECKLINE

In this hack you will find a description of how to change the neckline of your jacket from the basic instruction to A) a V-neck or B) without a neckline. The neckline can be altered, by working it longer or shorter (hack #7A) or by exchanging the ribbing with another edge (hack #10). A)

V-neck:

If you want to knit a jacket with a V-neck, you will have to start a little differently than described in the basic instruction. There will be no short rows, but increases on the front pieces to form the neckline. Follow the descriptions below before continuing with the basic instruction from step 10. -

Cast on 52 (54) 58 (60) 64 sts on a 5 mm (80 cm) circular needle. -

Purl 1 row. You are now in a rs-row. -

Mark the jacket as follows: 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 sts (left front), 1 marked st, 4 (5) 6 (7) 8 sts (left sleeve), 1 marked st, 36 (36) 38 (38) 40 sts (back piece), 1 marked st, 4 (5) 6 (7) 8 sts (right sleeve), 1 marked st, 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 sts (right front). -

You will now work increases for the front pieces every rs-row, while at the same time, you work raglan increases. Work as follows:

Increases front piece:

For the front pieces, work an increase every rs-row between the 1

st

and 2

nd

st, as well as between the second to last and last st, except every 3

rd

rs-row, in total 13 (13) 14 (14) 15 times.

Increases raglan:

Work an increase on both sides of each marked st every rs-row, in total 19 (19) 20 (20) 22 times. -

Work the raglan increases every other row, in total 6 (8) 9 (11) 11 times. Continue with the basic instruction from step 10 through to step 26 and follow the instructions below for the front bands:

A B

or


17 -

Place 1 stm each right at the end of the V-neck on both sides. -

With a 4 mm (80 cm) circular needle, pick up 68 (71) 73 (75) 75 sts between the bottom right edge and the just placed stm (skip every approx. 4

th

st). Pick up a further 51 (52) 55 (56) 58 sts from the stm to centre back (skip every approx. 4

th

st). -

Work 4 rows in rib. -

Work in rib to stm. You have now 68 (71) 73 (75) 75 sts on the needle. -

K2tog, yo, work 18 (19) 19 (20) 20 sts. K2tog, yo, work 18 (19) 20 (20) 20 sts. K2tog, yo, work 18 (19) 20 (21) 21 M sts. K2tog, yo, work 6 sts. -


Bind off all sts. -

Pick up the same number of sts along the left front edge. -


Bind off all sts. -

Sew together at the neck.

-

Sew the buttons to the left front band, opposite the button holes at the right front band. B)

Without neckline:

If you want to work a jacket without a neckline, you will have to start a little differently than described in the basic instruction. As a small part of the front pieces is

“

missing

”

, you will not work any short rows. Follow the descriptions below before continuing with the basic instruction from step 10. -


Purl 1 row. You are now in a rs-row. -


Work flat in stockinette stitch, while you work the raglan increases every rs-row, in total 25 (27) 29 (31) 33 times. Continue with the basic instruction from step 10 through to step 26 (note that the number of sts is not the same as at the basic instruction) and follow the instructions below for the front bands: -

Pick up 103 (107) 112 (116) 121 sts from bottom right edge to centre at the back piece. -


Bind off all sts. -

Work the front band along the left front edge the same way. -

Sew together at the neck.


18

HACK #6 BODY

In this hack you will find a description of how to change the body by A) adding slits to the sides or by B) working the back longer with short rows. Follow the basic instruction through to step 15 and then continue as follows:

A) Slits

-

Place 1 stm below each armhole opening. If you have cast on an odd number of sts at the armhole opening, assign 1 st to the back piece.

-

Work flat in stockinette stitch to the point where the slits should begin. At the pictured jacket, the slits start after 15 cm.

-

Place front piece sts on hold.

-

Work the back piece sts flat in stockinette stitch to desired length. At the pictured jacket, this part measures 10 cm (excl. ribbed hem). The edge sts can be worked with your preferred method; for a neat edge, it is recommended to work the 1

st

and last st as knit sts.

-

End with a ws-row. Change to a 4 mm (80 cm) circular needle and work 1 row, while at the same time you increase 4 (8) 11 (15) 18 sts evenly spread.

-

End the back piece with a ribbed hem to your desired length. At the pictured jacket, the hem measures 4 cm.

-

Bind off all sts.

-

Work both front pieces separately flat in stockinette stitch to your desired length. At the pictured jacket, this part measures 10 cm (excl. ribbed hem).

-

End with a ws-row. Change to a 4 mm (80 cm) circular needle and work 1 row, while at the same time you increase 2 (4) 6 (8) 9 sts/ front piece.

-

End both front pieces with ribbed hems to your desired length. At the pictured jacket, the hems measure 4 cm.

-

Bind off all sts.

-

Continue with the basic instruction from step 20 on.

B) Short rows

For the short rows at the back piece, you will use the same technique as used at the neckline (basic instruction). At www.rilleruth.com you can find a video tutorial for this method. -

Place 1 stm below each armhole opening. If you have cast on an odd number of sts at the armhole opening, assign 1 st to the back piece. -

Work in stockinette stitch in rounds to the point where the short rows should begin. At the pictured jacket, they start after 15 cm. The back piece gets approx. 11 cm longer. -

Work in stockinette stitch to centre back. -

Work to stm at armhole opening and a further 20 sts into front piece. Turn work and work in stockinette stitch to opposite side. Turn work 20 sts into front piece again. Continue working flat in stockinette stitch as explained. When reaching the stm at both sides, work 16 sts into front piece. Then 12 sts, thereafter 8 sts. Then 5 sts and 2 sts. Finally, work through to stm at both sides, then turn work 2 sts before stm at both sides, then 5 sts to stm. Then 8 sts, thereafter 12 sts, then 16 sts and end with 20 sts before both stm. -

Knit to end of row and purl 1 row. -

Change to a 4 mm (80 cm) circular needle and work 1 row, while at the same time you increase 8 (16) 22 (30) 36 sts evenly spread. -

Work 4 cm in rib (k1, p1).

-

Bind off all sts. -

Continue with the basic instruction from step 20 on

.


19


Hack #1: The jacket is worked with Bella Mohair by Permin. Hack #5A: The jacket is worked with a V-neck. Hack #6A: The jacket is worked with slits.


The jacket is worked in size 2 with 5 skeins Bella Mohair.


20

-


Hack #1: The jacket is worked with Påfugl by Dale. Hack #5B: The jacket is worked without neckline. Hack #9: The jacket is worked with stripes.


The jacket is worked in size 2 with 330g Påfugl yarn (approx. 7 skeins).


21

HACK #7 LENGTH

This is probably the easiest change you can make to your jacket to ensure it fits your measurements. A) Neckline, B) body and C) sleeves can all be worked shorter or longer than explained in the basic instruction. As the jacket is worked top down, you can easily try it on while knitting. Keep in mind that the total amount of yarn will change, if you make any adjustments at neckline, body and/ or sleeves.

A)

Neckline

If you want to work the neck longer than described in the instruction, you can work it as a half neck or as a turtleneck. It can also be worked shorter for a less prominent edge. Remember that a change in the length of the neck affects the number of stitches to be picked up for the front bands. And if you still want buttons you have to adjust the amount of button holes/buttons as well as their placement.

B)

Body

The body can be worked to your desired length, anything from cropped to ankle is possible. If you want to work an extra-long jacket that will reach over your bottom, it is advisable to choose a size based on your hip measurement. It is recommended that it has at least 5 cm of positive ease if you want it to go over your bottom. Remember to adjust the number of buttonholes/buttons and their placement on the front bands depending on how many stitches you have picked up.

C)

Sleeves

The basic instruction says to work decreases every 3.5 cm on both sides of the stm under the sleeve, in total 12 times. You then work the sleeves 3 cm longer (step 22 and 23). Here, the sleeve length can easily be adjusted by working it longer or shorter than the stated 3 cm. If further adjustments is desired, decreases can also be worked every 3

rd

cm (shorter sleeves) or every 4

th

cm (longer sleeves). Furthermore, the sleeves can also be worked with ¾ length or short (T-shirt). In this case you can follow the decreases in the basic instruction, until you reach the desired length or you can decide to work straight sleeves (hack #4A).


22

HACK #8 STRUCTURE

In this hack you will find a description of how the structure of the jacket can be changed by using A) garter ridges or B) a structural pattern. In the latter change, knit and purl stitches are worked in different repetitions. Follow the basic instruction through to step 2 for hack A and through to step 8 for hack B, before following the descriptions of your chosen alternative. Remember that the different structures can affect the gauge and therefore the measurements of the finished jacket. Knit a gauge swatch first, before you start knitting. There are endless of alternatives for structural patterns to choose from, but bear in mind that you may need to adjust the placement of the raglan sts and the exact number of sts in each piece to make the pattern work. In addition, a random structural pattern might not work well with the short rows. In other words: plan especially well if you want to use a different structural pattern than the two explained in this hack.

A)

Garter ridges

-

Follow the basic instruction through to step 2. -

Knit 1 row and work the sts onto a 5 mm (80 cm) circular needle. At the same time decrease 4 sts for

size 1

, 2 sts for

size 2

, do not work any in- or decreases for

size 3


size 4

and 4 sts for

size 5

, evenly spread.

You are now in a ws-row and you have to mark the jacket with stm, as explained in the basic instruction at step 4.

-

Purl 1 row (work the marked sts as a p sts), so that you can continue with a rs-row. -

Continue with step 5 from the basic instruction and work the following adjustments:



Work in garter stitch (k on rs and ws =garter ridges).



Work the marked sts as k sts in rs-row and as p sts in ws-rows.



The sleeves are worked as follows: knit 1 round, purl 1 round, etc.

A B


23

B)

Multi-structure (in knit and purl stitches)

-

Follow the basic instruction through to step 8.

-

Continue with step 9 from the basic instruction, but now in a structure pattern (consisting of knit and purl stitches) in the following order:



6 rows in moss stitch*



4 rows in stockinette stitch (k on rs, p on ws)



4 rows in garter stitch (k on rs and ws)



4 rows in rib**



4 rows in stockinette stitch (k on rs, p on ws)



Repeat. *Moss stitch: Work (k1, p1). The following row/ round, work (p1, k1), so that the pattern is staggered by 1 st, i.e., k st over p st and p st over k st. ** Rib pattern: Work (k1, p1) every row/ round, i.e., k st over k st and p st over p st. NOTE! Raglan increases: The marked sts are always k sts. The new sts are incorporated into the pattern. Apart from the structure, follow the basic instruction. Sleeves: The structure is continued at the sleeves. Remember to adjust the structure, as the sleeves are worked in rounds. Repetitions and order of structures can be placed as preferred.


24


Hack #1: The jacket is worked with 1 thread Iris (discontinued) and 1 thread Finull by Rauma. Hack #2: The jacket is worked with a gauge 15 sts/ 10 cm. Hack #8A: The jacket is worked in garter stitch.


The jacket is worked in size 2 with 8 skeins Iris and 6 skeins Finull.


25


Hack #1: The jacket is worked with Hyrdegarn by Hjelholts Garn. Hack #2: The jacket is worked with a gauge 16 sts/ 10 cm. Hack #8B: The jacket is worked with multi-structure (knit and purl stitches).


The jacket is worked in size 3 with 9 skeins Hyrdegarn.


26

HACK #9 STRIPES

Another possibility to change the jackets appearance is stripes. You can work thick or thin stripes, as well as multi-coloured stripes. You can repeat the stripes systematically or random. Regardless which option you choose, the amount of yarn usually goes up when you go for stripes. The more colours you want, the more yarn you need. Below you can find some inspiration in form of gauge swatches. Here, you can see, how stripes with 2, 3 or 4 colours could look like.

2 colours:

- 4 rows in col. 1 - 1 row in col. 2 - Repeat

2 colours:

- 6 rows in col. 1 - 1 row in col. 2 - 1 row in col. 1 - 1 row in col. 2

-

Repeat

2 colours:

- 4 rows in col. 1 - 2 rows in col. 2 - Repeat

2 colours:

- 8 rows in col. 1 - 8 rows in col. 2 - Repeat

3 colours:

- 10 rows in col. 1 - 10 rows in col. 2 - 10 rows in col. 3 - Repeat

3 colours:

- 4 rows in col. 1 - 4 rows in col. 2 - 4 rows in col. 3 - Repeat


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3 colours:

- 6 rows in col. 1 - 1 row in col. 2 - 1 row in col. 3 - 1 row in col. 2 - Repeat

3 colours:

- 3 rows in col. 1 - 3 rows in col. 2 - 3 rows in col. 3 - 3 rows in col. 2 - Repeat

4 colours:

- 4 rows in col. 1 - 4 rows in col. 2 - 4 rows in col. 1 - 4 rows in col. 3 - 4 rows in col. 1 - 4 rows in col. 4 - Repeat

4 colours:

- 2 rows in col. 1 - 2 rows in col. 2 - 2 rows in col. 3 - 2 rows in col. 4 - 2 rows in col. 3 - 2 rows in col. 2 - Repeat

4 colours:


4 colours:



28

HACK #10 EDGES

In this hack you will find a description of how to change the edges to A) I-cord edges or B) a crochet edge. This hack can easily be combined with other hacks. You can for example finish hack #4B (balloon shaped sleeves) or hack #5A (V-neck) with hack #10A (I-cord edges).

A)

I-cord edges:

If you want to work I-cord edges on your jacket, you have to cast on additional stitches at both front pieces, because you remove the ribbed frond bands. -


Purl 1 row and, at the same time, decrease 4 sts for

size 1

, 2 sts for

size 2


size 3


size 4

and 4 sts for

size 5

, evenly spread. -


Continue with the basic pattern from step 5 on, but keep in mind, that the number of sts is not the same. You have a further 6 sts/ front piece on the needle. -

Button holes: Work the button holes at the right front piece in rs-row. Start with the 1

st

button hole after approx. 2,5 cm. Work in pattern to 5 sts left, k2tog, yo, k3. Repeat the button holes every approx. 8 cm, in total 6 times (if you work your jacket to the same length as explained in the basic instruction with 6 buttons). Once the last button hole has been worked, work a further 3 cm. -

Finishing body: Bind off all sts. -

Finishing sleeves: Bind off the sleeves with an I-cord edge. At www.rilleruth.com you will find a link to a video tutorial, where this technique is explained. -

I-cord edge at neckline, front bands and body: Neckline, front bands and body are finished with an I-cord edge that is worked at the end. At www.rilleruth.com you will find a link to a video tutorial, where this technique is explained.

-

Sew the buttons to the left front piece, opposite the button holes at the right front piece, approx. 3 sts from the edge.

B)

Crochet edge:

Follow the first 6 steps from the explanation above. Bind off all body and sleeve sts. At www.rilleruth.com you can find 2 links to video tutorials, where the pictured crochet edge is explained. Count from the corners and adjust the pattern, if necessary, so that it hits the corners neatly. You might have to skip more/ fewer stitches. Try to even it out as best as you can. For the crochet edge, use a crochet hook with the same needle size in which the jacket has been worked.

A B


29


Hack #1: The jacket is worked with double thread Flora and 1 thread Kid Silk by Drops. Hack #10A: The jacket is worked with I-cord edges.


The jacket is worked in size 3 with 8 skeins Flora and 4 skeins Kid Silk.


30


Hack #1: The jacket is worked with Pus by Du Store Alpakka. Hack #2: The jacket is worked with a gauge 18 sts/ 10 cm. Hack #10B: The jacket is worked with a crochet edge.


The jacket is worked in size 3 with 9 skeins Pus.


31

HACK #11 FINISH

In this hack you will find a description of how to close the jacket with A) a zipper or B) with lacing. At hack A you change the

neckline into a double folded ribbing, with which you can hide the zipper’s edge. The ribbed front edges are changed into I

-cord edges, so that you create a neat finish, where you sew the zipper to the jacket. At hack B you change all edges to I-cord edge, but still this hack is different from hack #10A (I-cord edges).

A)

Zipper:

At this hack, you do not work ribbed front bands, which is why you have to cast on additional stitches at both front pieces. -

Cast on

88 (88) 92 (92) 96 sts on a 4 mm (40/80 cm) circular needle.

-

Work flat in rib (k1, p1) to desired length (keep in mind that the edge is folded double). At the pictured jacket, the ribbing measures 20 cm (2x10 cm). -

Continue with the basic pattern from step 3 on, but keep in mind that the number of stitches is not the same. You have a further 3 sts/ front piece on the needle. -

Length body: Buy a zipper, before you finish the body. Place the zipper at your jacket while knitting, to determine the correct length of the body. At the pictured jacket, the zipper measures 65 cm. -

I-cord edges front bands:

The jacket’s front bands are finished with I

-cord edges. At www.rilleruth.com you can find a video tutorial for this technique. It is the same video as in #10A, with the only difference that here, you start at the top of the right front piece with the I-cord edge and end at the bottom of the right front piece. At the left front piece, you start at the bottom and work your way up to the neckline. -

Sew the ribbing at the neckline to the jacket and attach the zipper: at www.rilleruth.com you can find a video tutorial for this technique.

B)

Lacing:

At this hack, you do not work a ribbing at the neckline, which is why you have to cast on additional stitches at both front pieces. -

Cast on

88 (88) 92 (92) 96 sts on a 5 mm (80 cm) circular needle. -

Purl 1 row and, at the same time, decrease 4 sts for

size 1

, 2 sts for

size 2


size 3


size 4

and 4 sts for

size 5

, evenly spread.

-

You are now in a rs-row and you mark the jacket as follows: -

18 (18) 19 (19) 20 sts (left front), 1 marked st, 4 (5) 6 (7) 8 sts (left sleeve), 1 marked st, 36 (36) 38 (38) 40 sts (back piece), 1 marked st, 4 (5) 6 (7) 8 sts (right sleeve), 1 marked st, 18 (18) 19 (19) 20 sts (right front). -

Continue with the basic pattern from step 3 on, but keep in mind that the number of stitches is not the same. You have a further 3 sts/ front piece on the needle. -

Finishing body: Bind off all sts. -

Finishing sleeves: Bind off the sleeves with an I-cord edge. At www.rilleruth.com you will find a link to a video tutorial, where this technique is explained. -

I-cord edge at front bands and body: The front bands and the body are finished with I-cord edges, which is attached at the end. At www.rilleruth.com you will find a link to a video tutorial, where this technique is explained. It is the same video as in #10A, with the only difference that here, you start with the I-cord edge at the top right front band and end at the top left front band. -

Lacing: Work the I-cord lacing at the neckline in one piece. At www.rilleruth.com you will find a link to a video tutorial, where this technique is explained. Work the lacings to approx. 35 cm.


32


Hack #1: The jacket is worked with 1 thread Flora and 1 thread Kid Silk by Drops. Hack #2: The jacket is worked with a gauge 18 sts/ 10 cm. Hack #7: The jacket is worked to a length that it fits a 65 cm zipper. Hack #11B: The jacket is worked with a zipper.




33


Hack #1: The jacket is worked with double thread Flora and 1 thread Kid Silk by Drops. Hack #11B: The jacket is closed with a lacing.




34

HACK #12 POCKETS

There are many different ways to knit pockets. In this hack you will find a description for 2 different pocket versions, as well as a suggestion for the placement of the pockets. Follow the basic instruction through to step 15, before you start with the explanations below. You can find video tutorials on how to work both these pockets. You can find the links at www.rilleruth.com.

The following applies to both pockets:

-

Work 5 cm flat in stockinette stitch. -

End with a ws-row. -

Work 15 (17) 20 (22) 25 sts. -

Work in waste yarn across the 21 sts for the pocket. -

Place sts back onto the left-hand needle. -

With working yarn, work across the 21 sts. -

Work to 36 (38) 41 (43) 46 sts left. -

Repeat the explanations above for the 2

nd

pocket. -

Work to end of row.

A)

Double pockets:

-

Continue with the basic instruction from step 16 through to 33. -

Pull out the waste yarn. -

Place the sts on 5 mm dpns, a 30 cm circular needle or a 80/100 cm circular needle for the Magic Loop method. -

Pick up 2 sts on both sides, so that you have in total 45 sts on the needle. -

Work in stockinette stitch in rounds, until the pocket measures 17 cm or to desired length. -

Sew the stitches together with the Kitchener stitch, bind them off and sew them together or follow the method used in the video tutorial for the pocket. -

Repeat the explanations above for the 2

nd

pocket.

B)

Single pockets:

-

The sts that follow for the pocket (the stitches that have been worked on the waste yarn) are worked in rib (k1, p1) for 3 cm. The 2 outer sts are p sts in rs-rows. The 1

st

ws-row, work the 1

st

st as a k st. Due to the odd number of sts, the last st is automatically a k st (p st in rs-row). -

Continue working flat in stockinette stitch and continue from step 16 through to step 33. -

Pull out the waste yarn. -

Pick up and place the top sts on hold. -

Pick up the bottom sts (these sts might look slightly

“

odd

”

), knit them and bind them off. Note! Watch out for a loose tension. -

Work the top sts flat in stockinette stitch, until the pocket measures 17 cm or to desired length. -

Bind off all sts.


35

-

Weave in the ends (but not the ends on both sides of the ribbing). With the ws-row facing the jacket, sew on the pocket to the front piece. A perfect result is relatively difficult to achieve. You might want to wash and block the pockets before attaching them to the jacket. Maybe sew in a contrasting thread slightly below the placement on the jacket so that the pockets are straight. The video tutorial guides you through all steps. -

Finally, sew in the threads on both sides of the ribbing to the ws and weave them in.

or


36

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HACK IT JACKET SEPTEMBER 2023 English

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