The Quest to Build a Perfect Protein Bar

A great number of Americans wish to optimize their diets—and their lives.
Protein bars drawn as batteries.
Most protein bars range in texture from paste-like to crumbly; often, their flavors suggest more playful indulgences, such as doughnuts or mint-chocolate-chip ice cream.Photo illustration by Jason Fulford and Tamara Shopsin

In the past seventy-five years in America, the nutritional bar has gone from niche to mainstream. In the fifties, Bob Hoffman, of York, Pennsylvania, known as “the father of weightlifting,” and an early manufacturer of barbells, hawked a product called Hi-Proteen Honey Fudge. Made from soybean flour and peanut butter, it was touted as offering “strength and endurance,” without “commercial” sugar—“not candy, just a good health, energy and body building food.”

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