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I thought I knew ragù. I grew up with Marcella Hazan’s recipe from The Essential Classics of Italian Cooking, as interpreted by my dad. I developed a recipe for a beefy one for lasagna, followed by a weeknight-able pork one. And heck, I even did a mushroom one. So when I watched chef Stefano Secchi make his version, a springy interpretation on the menu at Massara, his temple to the cooking of Campania, I suddenly had to question everything. Brighter and fresher, despite its near 10-hour cook time, it convincingly challenged and expanded my ragù universe. My ragùniverse, if you will. Here’s what I learned:
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