Aini’s Railway Odyssey book launch at the Georgetown Literary Festival

I’m back!!! It’s been ages since I wrote anything here. I was busy attending to the publication of my first book, Aini’s Railway Odyssey based on my 18,200km rail adventure from London to Malaysia.

Launch of Aini’s Railway Odyssey at the Georgetown Literary Festival in Penang, Malaysia

Georgetown Lit Fest
For those who are in Malaysia, the event is free but you might want to secure tickets. Launch date: 23 November 2018.

Here’s the link to the ticket site:

https://zibooklaunch.peatix.com/view

I leave you with the cover the designer and I worked on. My thanks to Hairul Sahak of Tiram Studios, Malaysia.

Odyssey cover for blog

Posted in Adventure, Books, solo travel, Tourism, trans-siberian railway, Travel, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Lake Baikal – paradise in blue

After such a long journey by train from London and the stress of being harassed by a bunch of ignorant Russian women at the tail end of my Trans-Siberian Rail journey from Moscow to Irkutsk, I arrived on Olkhon Island to a paradise. Lake Baikal’s peace and tranquility was just the remedy I needed.

A touch of the Arabian Nights at Nikita Bencharov Homestead

Arabian Nights

After the bumpy ride, Nikita Bencharov Homestead looms ahead like a structure from the Arabian Nights

I stayed at Nikita Bencharov Homestead, the only decent place to stay on the island. Otherwise there are homestays available but you wouldn’t have the luxury of an indoor toilet. Nikita’s is very comfortable; the only accommodation with tap water, piped in from Lake Baikal.

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Trans-Siberian Railway Adventure

This is what you’ve been waiting for! The icing on my odyssey cake, for which adventure traveller/backpacker hasn’t dreamt of taking this iconic train? The Trans-Siberian line from Moscow to Vladivostok, completed in 1916, is the longest railway in the world, covering 9,289 km. My journey to Irkutsk, 5185 km, away took four days.
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2. The writer with Svetlana, the friendly Trans-Siberian provodnitsa

The writer with Svetlana, the friendly Trans-Siberian provodnitsa


Despite the scare-mongering by the hostel receptionist in Warsaw, I still chose to travel in the plaskartny (3rd class) carriage because this is the essence of Trans-Siberian rail travel. You have to bite the bullet and take whatever comes your way, sharing space with 53 other passengers instead of taking the easy way out and travelling in the four-beded 2nd class compartment.
The crowded Plascartny (3rd class) open carriage
I made several friends onboard, including three Russian women, Marina the accountant who loves to Tango, Svetlana the doll-maker and Lyuba, the retired paediatrician who now travels the world, sharing her skills in the art of quilting. I also met a Parisian, Stephanie who was travelling for three weeks.
4. Alexander, the inebriated oil pipeline worker is a gentle giant
I came in fear, thanks for the visions of drunken Russians forcing vodka down my throat but the only drinker in our midst was the gentle giant, Alexander who works for an oil company. He drank himself to a blissful sleep, taking to his bunk like a contented baby until his stop in the middle of the night. Thankfully, Svetlana and Oleg, the provodniks (conductors) were vigilant, waking up passengers before their stop.
5. Post-doctoral researcher, Svetlana Kholodar helping me put up my curtain

Post-doctoral researcher, Svetlana Kholodar helping me put up my curtain

13. Quilt art by retired paediatrician, Lyuba Lezhanina (photo courtesy of Lyuba Lezanina)

Quilt art by retired paediatrician, Lyuba Lezhanina (photo courtesy of Lyuba Lezanina)


My food ration served me well – Korean ramen (noodles) with a dash of Malaysian prawn sambal. I had tea with some uht pots of milk and also shared my sachets of coffee with some of my new friends.
5. The Korean ramen, my staple food

The Korean ramen, my staple food

Middle-aged Russian women are generally a miserable, racist and ignorant lot. I learned this after my friends had disembarked, leaving me to be bullied. Thankfully a Russian post-doctoral researcher living in the US came on board and rescued me. Of course, as soon as she left the bullying continued. This time, with the women refusing to let me use the sole charging socket in the compartment. Fortunately Svetlana came and took me to her office to use her socket.

Saying goodbye to the last of my Trans-Siberian friends, Svetlana Kholodar

Saying goodbye to the last of my Trans-Siberian friends, Svetlana Kholodar


I was ripped off by the Hotel Irkut who charged me the equivalent of £10.00 for a 10-minute taxi ride. I was a sitting duck, I suppose, desperate to get to my hotel safely as I arrived in Irkutsk at 9.00 p.m. and didn’t dragging 30kgs in the dark to search for my hotel.

I staggered up the stairs and sank into bed. With no noodles left I ate some energy biscuits given by my friend, Prof. Hwang from Korea. The biscuits were part of the ration given to Korean soldiers.

READ more about my Trans-Siberian adventures in my article:

https://www.star2.com/travel/europe/2017/04/09/train-of-thought-the-highs-and-lows-of-a-trans-siberian-train-journey/

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From Russia with Love

How many times have I wanted to be able to start a postcard with that message? At last, I got to do it for real when I arrived in Moscow. It wasn’t all plain sailing. For a while, on arrival at Beloruskiy station. Nobody could speak English. For the first time on my 19,100-km odyssey, I felt lonely.

I met the first English-speakers, Amy Eagleburger and Marina Semenikhina and hugged them.

3. Delight at meeting my first English speakers in Moscow, Marina Semenkhna (left) and Amy Eagleburger

Delight at meeting my first English speakers in Moscow, Marina Semenkhna (left) and Amy Eagleburger

You really need to be able to read Russian cyrillic alphabet to read the Metro directions and road signs.

You need to know the Russian Cyrillic alphabet to get around Moscow

You need to know the Russian Cyrillic alphabet to get around Moscow

I met with two Russian friends, Elena Barinova

With Elena Barinova

With Elena Barinova, a retired chemist who is now a travel agent

and Yulia Gusarova
Coffee at the hostel with Yulia Gusarova

Coffee at the hostel with Yulia Gusarova

The next day I visited the iconic St. Basil’s Cathedral and the Russian Harrods: GUM.

The iconic St. Basil's Cathedral

The iconic St. Basil’s Cathedral


The opulent GUM, Russia_s answer to Harrods

The opulent GUM, Russia_s answer to Harrods

I met some lovely people at my poetically-named hostel, Winterfell on Arbat.

With Alexander and other staff at Winterfell on Arbat

With Alexander and other staff at Winterfell on Arbat


Speaking of poetic, I was serenaded with opera arias on the Polonez train from Warsaw to Moscow by the restaurant car assistant, Irina Glazkova.
Irina Glazkova sings an aria for me on the Polonez train to Moscow

Irina Glazkova sings an aria for me on the Polonez train to Moscow

Read more about my adventures from my article in The Star:

The long arm of the law heading to Moscow

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Warsaw is where the heart is

Firstly, I want to apologise for letting my blog go dormant for so long. I was tied up with writing the column articles on the odyssey and my book (to be announced soon).

This is the fifth segment of my Rail Odyssey which took me to Warsaw, published by The Star newspaper in Malaysia. You can see the link at the bottom of this page.

My journey to Warsaw from Berlin is where I started being seriously worried about language problems as I was leaving Central Europe where English is more widely spoken.

17. Saying goodble to my host, Zubaidah at Berlin Central on my way to Warsaw. (Photo by Zubaidah Aziz)

I was so reluctant to leave the warmth and comfort of my newly-found friend, Zubaidah’s home. She has become like a sister to me in the three nights we were together.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

I made friends with a budding journalist and travel writer, Michal Szymko who regaled me (and scared me) with his tales of doing the Trans-Siberian rail journey. 7. With receptionist Michal Szymko and Korean guests at the Top Floor Hostel

Read all about it here:

http://www.star2.com/travel/europe/2017/03/12/train-of-thought-warsaw-is-where-the-heart-is/Warsaw is where the heart is

 

 

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Berlin feels like home, with spies in tow

The fourth segment of my Rail Odyssey covers my visit to Berlin:

Berlin feels like home, with spies in tow

 

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Cologne and the mystery of its sent solved

My second stop on my 17,500 km rail journey was Cologne, Germany. Read all about it in this article published in The Star newspaper in Malaysia:

Don’t forget to leave a comment.

http://www.star2.com/travel/transport/2017/02/12/train-of-thought-cologne-and-the-mystery-of-its-scent-solved/

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Train museum and a peeing boy in Brussels

This is my second segment of the Rail Odyssey published in The Star newspaper in Malaysia:

Train museum and a peeing boy in Brussels

 

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Why a 60-year old went on an epic rail journey

I started a fortnightly column in The Star in Malaysia.

This is the first segment.

 

http://www.star2.com/travel/2017/01/15/why-a-60-year-old-went-on-an-epic-rail-journey/

 

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Odyssey ends

It’s been a while and the odyssey is long gone. I arrived on Malaysian soil on 29 September 2016. Below is my article published in the New Straits Times on 8 December 2016. I will also be writing a fortnightly column for The Star from 14 January 2017.

 

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The odyssey begins in Brussels

This gallery contains 10 photos.

Originally posted on London to Malaysia Rail Odyssey:
? Right, folks, I am sorry it’s taken so long to update this blog but you know how it is with such a mammoth project like this. I had to deal with…

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My London-KL Rail odyssey

Dear readers

I have had little time to publish travel blogs at the moment so please continue to check and in the meantime, please follow my rail odyssey blog. The link for the latest segment is here:

https://londonmalaysiarailodyssey.wordpress.com/2016/08/15/what-to-pack-for-a-2-month-rail-trip/

 

 

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My London-KL rail odyssey

On 5 August I started my 17,500km rail journey from London to Kuala Lumpur. It took a lot of planning, hence my Travelogical blog had been neglected. I hope whilst on this journey I can blog about the places I had meant to write about before – Istanbul and Sinan the architect, Ramadan in Istanbul, Haarlem in Netherlands and my previous trips to Bangkok and Chiangmai. So much to do, so little time.

Here is the first of my column about the rail odyssey in the New Straits Times in Malaysia:

http://www.nst.com.my/news/2016/08/162924/rail-odyssey-big-prep

I have also started a new blog to share all my adventures with you:

www.londonmalaysiarailodyssey.wordpress.com

 

 

 

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Up, up, and away in Cappadocia

By Nooraini Mydin

I have always wanted to experience a hot air balloon ride and one of the best places in the world to do this is in Cappadocia, Turkey. When were told Universal Balloon would collect us at 4.30 a.m. for a dawn liftoff, I was so worried I wouldn’t be able to get ready in time that I slept with all my clothes on.

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Our balloon being “fired up.”

We had a little breakfast at the company’s headquarters near Göreme National Park before being driven to the site. Like little children we were all speechless with excitement to see our balloon all fired-up and ready to go.

There were 12 of us in the balloon, distributed in the four corners of the basket with the pilot, Furkan Yazgi in the middle. Furkan was very friendly and accommodating, turning the balloon around so we could all get to see the sunrise. I was worried I might be told off for tethering my little baby Samsung camera to the balloon rope with a gorilla pod but thankfully I wasn’t and now I have lots of short videos of the ride.

We flew for an hour, reaching heights of up to 900 meters and at times dipping down so we were almost scraping the tops of the fairy chimneys. The incredible moonscape of the Göreme National Park makes for a magical experience. I don’t think there can be a better place to have your first hot air balloon experience than Cappadocia.

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Cappadocia’s “moonscape” from my hot air balloon

Furkan expertly landed the balloon close to the truck, as we hang on to the ropes, crouching as Furkan had taught us. Immediately the crew lifted the basket with us in it while Furkan gave it a small blast to help lift us onto the truck. Then the crew busied themselves laying the table with glasses (great husband material), non-alcoholic champagne and medals for all of us. That was a lovely surprise for me (obviously I didn’t read the itinerary properly). Why should I, all I wanted was to ride on the balloon. The rest were extra and a welcome treat indeed.

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Our charming from Universal Balloon, Furkan

Universal Balloon has four balloons with a capacity of between 8 and 20. Personally, I think the smaller capacity balloons are better. I’d hate to have to jostle for photographs with too many people. All their pilots are fully licensed and their crew are friendly and super-efficient.

 

My baby Samsung tethered to the rope of the hot air balloon.

Cappadocia

Cappadocia’s landscape is like fantasyland, from the fairy chimneys to the underground dwellings, the churches and cathedrals inside caves, 5-star hotels like the wonderful Gamirasu Cave Hotel in the village of Ayvali, built in the cavernous caves and luxuriously furnished. It’s a family-run hotel and its owner, Ibrahim Bastutan was born in this village and makes a point of getting to know his guests.

My comfy four-poster bed at Gamirasu Cave Hotel in Cappadocia

All the staff are warm and friendly. The food at Gamirasu was excellent, whether you order was local or Western cuisine. The breakfast buffet was amazing with unexpected extras like halva tahini, a sesame-based sweet that you can spread on your bread and honeycomb. The bread was soft and delicious. What a shame we had to leave so swiftly.

 

 

Turkey – a great country

What a treat to come home to this after a hard day’s touring

Turkey is a great country to visit. It offers so much to holiday-makers: sun and sea, culture, arts, history, archaeology, cuisine; you name it, there’s something for you wherever you decide to stick the pin on the Turkish map. Istanbul is fantastic for first timers to Turkey; it gives great value for a short city break in terms of the amount you can do and the food is also fabulous and cheap as well.

Is Turkey safe?

Forget the rumours about Turkey being unsafe. I lived through the IRA bomb threats in Central London in the 1990s and we all went about our lives as normal; the same with the Turkish people today. Life goes on and we should NEVER let our lives be dictated by cowardly terrorists anywhere.

With our guide, Baki from Travel Shop Turkey.

Lovely Turkish lady in the village of Ayvali, Cappadocia

The Turkish people are warm and welcoming. Even those who cannot speak English would at least smile at you or point you in the right direction. Visiting the beautiful mosques doesn’t cost you anything (unlike the temples in South-east Asia and Japan that will take a hefty chunk out of your budget). And the shopping is heavenly.

For information on travel to Turkey, Go to Turkey, the Turkish Culture and Information Service is best.

My trip was organised by: Eco Turkey and their local partner, Travel Shop Turkey

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Bejewelled treasures exhibition at the V&A

This wonderful exhibition closes at the end of March 2016. Not too late to catch a glimpse of the opulence of India’s maharajas.

Read all about it in my article in The Star:

Treasures of the east

 

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Midnight sun in Pyhä-Luosto

After enjoying the mystery of the Northern Lights at this popular winter destination, Nooraini Mydin heads for Pyhä-Luosto in Finland in summer to check out the wonders of the Land of the midnight sun.

 

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Reindeer herding in the Midnight sun

After the reindeer calves are born in May, reindeer owners who breed these animals in the wild, have a big task herding the animals to identify and mark their calves. Read all about it in the article published in The Star.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=nooraini+mydin+midnight+sun&rlz=1C5CHFA_enGB530MY544&oq=nooraini+mydin+midnight+sun&aqs=chrome..69i57.6521j0j4&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=119&ie=UTF-8

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Nasi Kandar – a Penang creation that Malaysians love

Nasi kandar is a breakfast rice dish that is my all time favourite. Here is my article published in Roads & Kingdoms today:

http://roadsandkingdoms.com/breakfast/revisiting-a-favorite-breakfast-half-a-century-later/

 

 

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Roti Canai – Malaysia’s favourite food

Here’s my piece about the roti canai published in Roads & Kingdoms:

http://roadsandkingdoms.com/breakfast/sometimes-you-need-to-go-where-everybody-knows-your-order/

 

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Bulb planting at Keukenhof

Ever wondered how Keukenhof Gardens manage to produce those spectacular spring blooms? Read all about it here:

So, of you go and book that Spring trip to Amsterdam and Keukenhof. You’ll be kicking yourself if you miss it. Late April is better.

 

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