Rubber cement is an adhesive made from elastic polymers (typically latex) mixed in a solvent such as acetone,hexane, heptane or toluene to keep them fluid enough to be used. Water-based formulas, often stabilised by ammonia, are also available. This makes it part of the class of drying adhesives: as the solvents quickly evaporate, the "rubber" portion remains behind, forming a strong, yet flexible bond. Often a small percentage of alcohol is added to the mix

Contact cement is an adhesive, which, when coated on two mating surfaces and allowed to dry, provides an instant permanent bond when brought into firm contact. While contact bond adhesives are widely used for bonding decorative laminates to substrates, they are almost a “universal” general purpose cement, and will bond a variety of substrates to one another such as wood, leather, metal, etc.

Yes indeed.

Contact cement develops its adhesive property by having the resin become almost completely air-cured, before bonding to itself on another piece of material.

Using it as glue makes it undergo anaerobic curing. Because of the nature of the polymer material, that makes a much weaker bond.

Instructions are provided with every type of cement or glue. And of course with every other product that sets up or cures or hardens prior to or after application. Those instructions mean something. In fact, they mean everything. They are written to show how the material will perform at its maximum potential, as determined by the scientists who developed it.

Anything other than precisely following the instructions, for any type of material you might buy, will lead to inadequate or unsatisfactory performance. Don’t try to convince yourself that you are so clever that you can ignore the instructions, and do a job ”your way”, yet have acceptable results.

Rubber cement for gluing patches to tires or inner tubes have a very volatile solvent, and can dry, in a hot, dry climate, in a minute or so. It will take longer to cure but still, 15 minutes is sufficient to air the tire/tube up to recheck for leaks.

There are a few variables, when dealing with rubber cement. Formulations for tire patches are ordinary, but there are non-flammable, solvent free cements that air dry and take longer to both dry and cure. Rubber cements for rubber roofing have slow drying times, as well, to allow joints or seams to be aligned and smoother before the glue sets.

Wet, cold weather will delay setting in any type of rubber cement so you will need to factor that in when deciding if the glued joint is ready to test.

Rubber cement is raw rubber dissolved in a solvent, usually hexane and ethanol. When it dries, it leaves behind a layer of raw rubber. This is very sticky, but still raw, and not permanent. Vulcanizing fluid contains a little raw rubber, and accelerators. These are chemicals which speed the vulcanizing reaction, just as the name implies. Patches consist of two layers. The upper layer is already vulcanized. The lower layer, the one next to the tube/tire, contains some of the chemicals necessary for vulcanization, but not the accelerators. When the patch is applied correctly, the accelerators cause the lower layer to vulcanize and bond with the surface of the material being repaired.

Quick Setting Cement

As the name indicates, this cement sets quickly. Its final setting time is less than half an hour. It contains higher percentage of C3A and C4AF, which hydrates quickly. The quantity of gypsum added is also less, in it. This cement is used for concreting works under running water. Since it sets quickly, the time available for mixing, transporting and placing of concrete is very small.

Rapid Hardening Cement

This cement contains higher percentage of C3S which, when combined with the fine grinding, contributes towards high early strength. It gains strength in three days as much as that the ordinary portland cement gains in 7 days. This cement is used for construction and repairs of roads. This is also used in precast concrete works to facilitate early release of moulds.

The ASTM has designated five types of portland cement, designated Types I-V. Physically and chemically, these cement types differ primarily in their content of C3A and in their fineness. In terms of performance, they differ primarily in the rate of early hydration and in their ability to resist sulfate attack. The general characteristics of these types are listed in Table 3.7. The oxide and mineral compositions of a typical Type I portland cement were given in Tables 3.4 and 3.6.

Table 3.7. General features of the main types of portland cement.

“Safe” is not a very good standard for judging whether to use a product -- even though we all agree that nothing unsafe should be used, and nothing should be used unsafely.

PVC cement is a solvent adhesive. It softens PVC, and to some degree melts the two surfaces together. That is a different way of forming a bond than many other adhesives. Those will grip onto irregularities (such as fibers) and which — when dry — have enormous tensile strength.

So with regular adhesives, it is very difficult to pull the hardened adhesive off of the surface where it was applied. And, over the short distances involved in a joint, it is all but impossible to overcome the tensile strength of the adhesive.

PVC cement is used on very smooth and generally impervious surfaces of PVC fittings and pipes. The only way to get a bond is to melt and fuse the surfaces. That is why it is virtually impossible to break a properly-done PVC joint. The pipe will break before the joint lets loose.

However, PVC cement does not have the same kind of softening and fusing action on most other plastics, nor other materials. So in general, it will not make a very strong joint or seal — or, none at all. Then the items can (and generally do) pull apart under stress. And they leak, prior to rupturing. Having a glued joint separate is, very often, something unsafe.

The product has a very specific use. Nothing else is better for that purpose. But don’t use PVC cement for any other application. Use a different, and more suitable, adhesive.

Used in the right application, contact glue can be used to bond most things.

However, not all things should be glued using contact glue, like timber to masonry, cement sheet to floor joist, etc.

In the past contact adhesive was used to glue Formica or Laminex sheeting to a timber (bench) surface in a kitchen. When dry, it is impossible to pull apart.

If you do decide to use it, make sure you ventilate the room, as it has toxic vapors that can make you nauseous and dizzy.

“Toxic Chemical Definition The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or EPA defines a toxic chemical as any substance which may be harmful to the environment or hazardous to your health if inhaled, ingested or absorbed through the skin.”

Having said that, today’s construction of laminated kitchen tops are mostly done by machines and does away with any human involvement.

How to Apply Contact Cement

1. Clean your work area thoroughly. ...
2. Apply the contact cement with a disposable brush or roller. ...
3. Let your bonding objects stand for 15 minutes or until they are dry. ...
4. Clean the excess contact cement off your products that you're bonding. ...
5. Clean your work area and use your product again after just 15 minutes or so.

.https://www.hunker.com/13401587/how-to-apply-contact-cement

Cement :-

Cement is a binder, a substance used for construction that sets, hardens, and adheres to other materials to bind them together. Cement is seldom used on its own, but rather to bind sand and gravel together. Cement mixed with fine aggregate produces mortar for masonry, or with sand and gravel, produces concrete.

White cement :-

White cement is same as that of grey Portland cement but the only differ is in the color and fineness. This color of this cement is determined by its raw materials and the process of manufacture.

The difference between cement and white cement :-

Raw Material: Grey color of the cement is mainly due to high content of oxides of iron, manganese and chromium which are present in limited amount in white cement.

Strength and Setting Time: Its setting behavior and strength development are essentially the same as those expected in grey cement.

Fineness: White cement is usually finer than grey cement and thus, gives better finishing.

Cost: Due to more complex manufacturing process of white cement, it is expensive than grey cement. In India, white cement is usually around Rs. 20 per kg costlier than grey cement.

Uses: White cement due to its whiteness is mainly used for architectural beauty, interior and exterior decorations, flooring, ornamental concrete products such as idols while grey cement is mostly used for construction purposes.

Is PVC cement safe to use for other applications?

That depends upon what you mean by “other applications”. PVC solvent cement is extremely flammable and emits toxic offgassing, both of which makes it “not safe” even for approved use of connecting PVC tube and fittings. Now, as far as using as an adhesive for things other than PVC tube and fittings, understand that it’s only formulated to function correctly with the specific PVC formulations used in making PVC tube and fittings. It will not work on other formulations of PVC, nor any other type of plastic. When left to dry on it’s own without being reacted to PVC tube and fittings, it becomes very brittle with almost no strength. Thus, it’s pretty much useless for anything other than connecting PVC tube and fittings.
MarkKw

Plausibly, but probably not. Alhtough they work in similar ways (partly dissolving the material they are joining - hence the alternative name of “solvent welding”), from my experience PVC cement contains some PVC material, which when it dries becomes hard. I’m also not sure the solvent in PVC cement actually dissolves rubber.

To plug a tyre, you want the adhesive to be soft and pliable, so that when the tyre flexes, the glue doesn’t break up.

Not getting the fix done properly will probably ruin the tyre (once it’s got the wrong adhesive on there, it’s quite possibly ruined, as the inside of the puncture hole will be covered by the wrong adhesive), so that’s what you risk from not using the proper stuff.

As with “can I use X instead of Y”, it all depends on what you are trying to achieve - a good/decent fix or MacGyver yourself out from between a rock and a hard place. If you are stuck somewhere 50 miles from the nearest town, and you have no cell-phone reception, getting yourself those 50 miles into “civilisation” will obviously be more important than “not ruining the tyre”. If, on the other hand, you are in your home town, there’s a shop that fixes tyres within walking/taxi distance, I’d say take it there and get it fixed properly. Or get the right kind of adhesive, at least.

White cement and normal cement are two types of cement that differ in their composition and properties. 🏗️

🔹 Composition: The main difference between white cement and normal cement lies in their raw materials. White cement is made from pure limestone and china clay, while normal cement is made from limestone, clay, and gypsum. This difference in raw materials gives white cement its characteristic white color.

🔹 Color: As mentioned earlier, the most noticeable difference between white cement and normal cement is their color. White cement is used when a clean and crisp white finish is desired, making it ideal for aesthetic purposes. On the other hand, normal cement has a grayish color, which is commonly used for general construction purposes.

🔹 Strength and Durability: Both white cement and normal cement possess similar strength and durability characteristics. They can both withstand various environmental conditions and provide structural integrity to constructions. However, the specific strength and durability requirements may vary depending on the project specifications.

🔹 Applications: White cement is commonly used in architectural and decorative applications, such as white concrete, precast panels, terrazzo flooring, and decorative finishes. It is also used in projects where color consistency and aesthetics play a significant role. Normal cement, on the other hand, is widely used in general construction, including foundations, walls, slabs, and other structural components.

🔹 Cost: White cement is generally more expensive than normal cement due to its specialized production process and the use of pure raw materials. Therefore, its usage is often limited to specific applications where its distinct white color is essential.

In summary, white cement and normal cement differ primarily in their composition, color, and applications. While white cement offers a clean white finish and is preferred for architectural and decorative purposes, normal cement is widely used in general construction. As construction professionals and civil engineers, understanding the differences between these two types of cement can help you make informed decisions regarding material selection for your projects. 🏢🚧

Hello James Henry , and thanks for the A2A.

I’ve never done this before, so I’m going by similar experience - your mileage may vary. I’m assuming that you want to glue a sheet of rubber onto the face of a board and that there is plenty of contact area.

I would start with contact cement because I’ve always had good success using it to glue any sort of veneer to wood. Test it on a section of the rubber first, though because it has lots of solvents that might eat it away.

If that didn’t work, I’d go with old fashioned rubber cement. It isn’t very strong in any one spot but if you can get 4–6 square inches of contact I think it will hold up.

After that, you’ll have to follow the other answerers’ advice because I would be experimenting myself.

Let us know what works for you.

EDIT: I just read the answer from Alicia Lew, to use barge (shoe) cement. I think that it is better than any of mine suggestions, and you should try it first.