Thoughts on the Gods that Connect Humans and Nature - Kiso Mt. Ontake - Part 1
Mt. Ontake, which is known as a representative mountain of mountain worship, suddenly erupted in September 26 and became the site of the worst volcanic disaster since the end of World War II. Although it is still far from the bustle of the past, the mysterious charm of this mountain has attracted the hearts of many people.
Located on the border of Nagano and Gifu prefectures, KisoMt. Ontakehas been deeply engraved in the mental landscape of many people as a mountain of faith since ancient times. TheMt. Ontakeeruption in Heisei 26 was the worst volcanic disaster since the end of World War II, and it brought us surprise, fear, and sadness not only for mountain lovers, but also for those who live in Japan, and it showed us the amazing power of nature. Isn't it an event that is clearly etched in Mr./Ms.'s memory?
Even now, in Heisei 31, the utmost care must be taken against very small ejections such as sudden volcanic ash. Even if you are able to enter the mountain, there are restrictions on access by each local government. It is a matter of course no matter which mountain you climb, but even if the restrictions on various places in theMt. Ontakeare relaxed in the future, you must take the utmost care when entering the mountain, prepare as much as possible, and step into the awe of nature.
I had a hard time figuring out how to introduce this mountain, which has strong memories of the recent painful disaster. Many of you may be familiar with this matter, but I wanted to write about the Ontake cult as a mountain of prayer and a representative of mountain worship, as well as theMt. Ontakeitself, which is a symbol that reminds me of myself, at this time, four years after the volcanic disaster.
If any of the readers of this article are considering climbingMt. Ontakein the future, I sincerely hope that they will engage in the mountain trek with the aforementioned awareness in mind.
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When you climb KisoMt. Ontakein the summer, you will meet Mr./Ms. people dressed in white. These people are participants in the summer mountain worship conducted by a group called "Ontake Ko" that worshipsMt. Ontake. Under the guidance of their predecessors (the role of leaders on the mountain of faith), the people, both energetic children and the elderly with weak legs, work together to slowly and steadily reach the summit while helping each other.
Also, these people perform rituals at various worship sites in the mountains, making symbolic gestures like Shugendo practitioners (yamabushi), chanting Buddhist mantras and sutras, while also reciting Shinto prayers and clapping their hands, offering prayers. Furthermore, they conduct a ritual called 'Oza' (御座), a divine descent ceremony, at sacred sites and mountain peaks. Not all groups are the same, but many 'Ontake-kou' (御嶽講) have passed down a syncretic faith that values both Shinto deities and Buddhist Buddhas through hiking and rituals.
However, even within the same world of mountain faith, there are some differences between Shugendo practitioners and the sendatsu and followers of 'Ontake-kou'.
Originally, Shugendo itself varies in its form of faith depending on which mountain the training is conducted. Nevertheless, many Shugendo practitioners dress in austere attire, run through the mountains like the wind, climb rocky areas, and engage in practices that traverse the boundary between life and death.
In contrast, the sendatsu and followers of Ontake wear simple white robes and usually hike slowly, guiding all participants up the mountain. Considering this, it can be said that Shugendo and 'Ontake-kou' have both similar and different aspects.
Similarities include finding the presence of deities and Buddhas in the plants, trees, rocks, rivers, wind, and clouds that live in the mountains, and in all natural phenomena. They also share the way they perform religious rituals, such as chanting sutras, mantras, and Shinto prayers during worship, known as 'otsutome' or 'gongyo'.
On the other hand, differences include the fact that Shugendo practices, such as the Omine Okugake training or the autumn peak entry at Mount Haguro, require strong physical strength and resilience, making them somewhat specialized and not easily accessible to everyone. However, in the case of 'Ontake-kou' hiking, there is a strong inclusive spirit that aims to guide both children and the elderly up the mountain, making it possible for anyone to participate in the hike.
Nevertheless, 'Ontake-kou', the bearers of Ontake faith, originally had Shugendo as their foundation, and their religious rituals were learned from Shugendo. It is believed that the origin of their faith, which began by feeling the presence of deities and Buddhas in the mountains, was Shugendo.
In the flow of time, 'Ontake-kou', which began in earnest in the late Edo period, maintained the form of faith of its foundation while developing uniquely by having ordinary people, rather than professional religious practitioners like Shugendo practitioners, take on the roles of hiking, training, and religious activities such as prayers.
Furthermore, after the Meiji Restoration, they were greatly influenced by the national religious policies of the time, and each group was forced to strongly incorporate Shinto elements, transforming into various Shinto sects. As a result, they created sects such as Ontake-kyo and Kiso Ontake Honkyo, which are still heard of today.
In this way, it can be said thatMt. Ontakeis a sacred mountain that represents a major turning point in the history of mountain worship and religious beliefs in Japan from the early modern period to the modern era.
When you first look up at Kiso'sMt. Ontake, you will be impressed by the magnificence of the mountain. In particular, it is divinely beautiful to see the snow-capped peaks on the peaks of the mountain in early summer and early winter, and the deep green forests and valleys of autumn leaves that spread out at the foot of the mountain make you feel the presence of gods and Buddhas in their appearances regardless of the season. If you put yourself on the top of a mountain in summer, you will think that you can reach the azure sky and majestic clouds, and if you look at the alpine plants that bloom in the surrounding mountains and rocky areas, you will realize that it is the place where the gods and Buddha live.
The very simple interaction with the gods lies beyond the heart of gratitude and awe for the nature that spreads out in front of us as a matter of course, and has carved out a history as a mountain of distinctive beliefs while following the form of Shugendō in ancient times. Its uniqueness is due to the fact that it is a belief in the mountains centered on the villages at the foot of theMt. Ontake, especially the Ryomitake Shrines in Kurosawa and Otaki, and in theMt. Ontakemiddle of the Edo period, it is also a belief in the founders of Chuko, the founders of the Chūkō Enlightenment Practitioner and the Fukan Gyo and their disciples, as well as the gods enshrined in the mountains, such as the Ontake Ōkami who protects the summit, the gods and Buddhas who protect each key point on the mountainside, and the spirit gods enshrined at the foot of the mountain. is enshrined in a certain order.
It can be said that people are guided by the presence of such gods and Buddhas, and they climb worship throughout the four seasons, and the experience builds a relationship of trust with fellow climbers, deepens their faith, and plays an important role in the unity of group worship. These various factors are interrelated as a whole, andMt. Ontakefaith has been formed. The basis of these elements is nothing less than the harmonious relationship between nature, God (Buddha) and man.
We are a part of and an extension of nature. I believe that this one small life is surrounded and protected by many other lives, growing and finding joy in living. Not only is nature special, but human life itself is also an important element in the formation of nature.
If we can feel the existence of nature and people, and the gods and Buddhas who connect them, even if the shape of ancient beliefs changes over time, the mental landscape ofMt. Ontakeengraved in our hearts will not fade and will be able to pass them on to future generations.
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I wrote this article in the form of my thoughts onMt. Ontake. In the midst of the volcanic disaster in Heisei 26, I was worried that the people who lived out their lives in Miyama, their relatives, and all those involved would have to look back on their painful feelings.
At the same time, with the selfish hope that this article might serve as a small opportunity to remember the deceased, I want to keep in mind and never forget what that volcanic disaster taught us in my future interactions with the mountains.
*The photos include scenes from before the eruption.
The gods who connect us with nature - Mt. Kiso Ontake (1/2)
Mt. Kiso Ontake is located on the border of Nagano and Gifu prefectures, in roughly the center of the Japanese archipelago. It has long been important to the psychological makeup of the locals, as well as being a historical subject of worship.
Many Japanese people remember the mountain’s eruption in 2014, the worst volcanic disaster since the end of the war. The unexpected news of the massive explosion, which caused many casualties and deaths, left us in shock, horror and despair. It reminded us of the astounding might of nature, easily forgotten during the calm period of a volcano’s apparent dormancy.
Even now in 2019, the mountain (with its continuously-observed small scale belching of volcanic ashes) reminds us to be cautious when visiting its environment. And there are some sections of the mountain that are restricted by local governments.
As with any mountain, when visiting Mt. Kiso Ontake one must prepare as much as possible, never lose humbleness in the presence of nature’s ferocity, and pay the utmost attention to your surroundings at all times.
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If you climb Mt. Kiso Ontake in the summer, you will come across many people wearing traditional-looking white robes. They’re participating in the 'summer mountain climb ritual' organized by groups called 'Ontake-kou (御嶽講)', Ontake pilgrim groups. Sendatsu (先達: holy mountain guides) unite people of all kinds in a single group, where the young and strong will help the aged or infirm. Slowly but steadily, they move together towards the top of the mountain, where the deities await.
On their way, they will stop at various “praying spots (拝所)” to chant Buddhist mantras and make symbolic gestures, like how Buddhist mountaineering ascetics (itinerant monks), the shugenja/yamabushi, do. It’s interesting that, at the same time, they also practice Shinto rituals; clapping, reciting Shinto ritual prayers, and conducting the ceremony called “oza” that invokes deities. Each “kou” (講: pilgrim group) is different in their style, but many Ontake-kou groups continue to honor both Shinto and Buddhist deities and ancestral spirits. These practices are living examples of the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism.
I mentioned shugenja. These mountain-based monks share the same animist beliefs as the Ontake-kou and sendatsu, and live in the same mountain-worshipping world. And yet, the precise religious faith of each shugenja is different to the next, depending on which mountain they were trained on. Most wear solemn, heavy costumes and run tirelessly around the mountain like gusts of wind, clambering up craggy cliffs and pushing themselves to extreme situations so that they hover between life and death in their training.
Ontake-kou participants, lead by a sendatsu, instead wear simple white attire and travel the mountain paths much more carefully, keeping pace with the slowest person so that everyone gets to the destination together, with no one left behind.
Both the intensely-trained shugenja and the inclusive Ontake-kou see spiritual beings in everything that surrounds them; greenery, flowers, trees, rocks, rivers, the wind, clouds … all of nature and its phenomena. They equally conduct various rituals and prayers from both Shinto and Buddhism.
Shugendo probably came first. Ontake-kou activities and folklore owe a debt to the rituals and practices of the itinerant ascetics, who traveled from afar to the mountain with the conviction that the deity they worshipped, or Buddha himself, was present there. After a long period of local folklore and animism-type mountain-worshipping, pilgrimages to the holy mountain began to be formalized as Ontake-kou in the late Edo period (late 19th century).
Then, Ontake-kou activities were unique in that they weren’t led by “professional” religious practitioners, but by average people who taught themselves the various rituals, prayers and forms of worship (This is still true today).
After the Meiji Restoration of 1868, the Japanese government made Shinto the official religion of Japan, strictly banning Buddhism and the syncretization of Shinto with Buddhism. Various kous were forced to institutionalize and become part of denominational Shinto sects, Ontake-kyo and Kiso Ontake Hon-kyo adopting various Shinto elements into their practices. The sacred mountain Mt. Ontake was the staging ground for the local folklore’s transition into a more formal religion.
Mt. Ontake of Kiso looks particularly celestial in early summer and early winter, when the peaks are embraced by white snow. The elegant slopes and the frills at the foot of the mountain hold deep green forests that change color through the seasons. But no matter the season, I feel the presence of deities, Buddha and ancestral spirits there. At the top of the mountain in summer, you feel as if you can reach out and touch the majestic clouds moving in the cerulean sky. You find the peaks of the surrounding mountains in the near distance, and alpine flora are covering the rocky surfaces of the ground at your feet.
These scenes are more than sufficient to remind your senses that here is where holy existence resides. Your blending into nature is the simplest form of interaction with sacred beings, an extension of a deep sense of gratitude and awe towards the nature that spreads its wings in front of you.
There are many mountains in Japan, but this one is particularly unique in several ways. First, it has a history of long being spiritually worshipped, from the time the mountaineering ascetics came to train themselves there. It is unusual for being the site of worship for two ascetic practitioners, who each rejuvenated the reverence of Mt. Ontake in the middle of the Edo Period: Kakumei-gyoja and Fukan-gyoja.
Its uniqueness can be also experienced in the various shrines in each village surrounding the mountain’s skirts, particularly the Ontake-shrines in Kurosawa and Outaki. Various deities, buddhas and divinities are enshrined at various spots on the mountain itself, and their chosen locations carry meaning, a translation of people’s worship and prayers in the three-dimensional space: the whole mountain.
People travel to and between such spots guided by sacred beings, appreciating the natural beauty of seasons together in Ontake-kou pilgrimages. Sharing such an experience, and the challenge of the climb together, nurtures trustful relationships among kou members of different generations and backgrounds, deepening their personal faiths and uniting them. This harmonious relationship mirrors that of the relationship between the worlds of nature, spiritualism and humanity.
We are merely a part of nature, and each of us is a small replica of the whole of nature. Each and every one of our lives is surrounded and protected by countless other lives, each evolving and living on this ground. While we worship nature, we are also a precious, important element of it, and therefore equally worthy of worship.
Circumstances might influence the shapes and outlook of that faith, but as long as nature exists, connected with humanity and the sacred beings around us, we are able to relate the significance of Mt. Ontake, which has and will impact upon the mental panorama of past, current and future generations.
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I have to admit it wasn’t easy to decide how to introduce this holy mountain. The heart-rending tragedy of its recent past is still fresh in memory. I was not sure if writing about this mountain would be appropriate in light of the 2014 disaster. But, as it remains symbolic of Japan’s history of the deification of nature, I decided with good intentions to still share this story with my dear readers on this 5-year anniversary of the disaster.
I hope that writing about the mountain might serve as a way to show my condolences towards the families of those departed souls who cherished this special mountain. It is my selfish wish, but I would like to always remember what the volcanic disaster taught us.
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Nakamura Makoto
Born in Tokyo in 1972. He serves as the president of a publishing company that issues magazines such as "ecoloco" and books like "JINJABOOK". Currently, as the representative of Imagine Co., Ltd., he is engaged in planning publications, events, and advertisements that resonate with the five senses, as well as various media activities including social contribution programs.
Since 2013, the 'Onomichi Free University' was established in Onomichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture, and I assumed the position of principal. Since my student days, I have traveled the world, and by looking at Japan from the outside, I have come to realize its charm anew, and have completed a tour around Japan visiting hot springs and shrines three times.
His books include "JINJA BOOK", "JINJA TRAVEL BOOK", "JINJA TRAVEL BOOK2", and "How to Live Well with God in Japan".
Shrine Studies for Mountaineers
When hiking in the mountains, it is common to come across shrines along the trails and at the summits. What exactly are these shrines? Mr. Shin Nakamura, who has completed three journeys around Japan visiting shrines, writes about the astonishing mountain shrines.
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