Movable Feasting: The Best Street Food

FOR most of this century, the City of New York has been fighting food vendors. The war has moved steadily uptown.

In the 1920's, the city and the vendors argued over possession of lower Broadway. By the Depression, Times Square had become the issue, and in the early 70's, the squabble moved to midtown.

By 1983, congestion had become so annoying that the city adopted Regulation 11, barring vendors from certain parts of midtown. But it was rarely enforced until Mayor Rudolph W. Giuliani came along, vowing to end congestion and moving vendors who had spent years near Radio City into less trafficked areas. The Mayor's Street Vendor Review Panel has suggested even more stringent rules, which were recently struck down by State Supreme Court in Manhattan. The city is appealing.

In the meantime, dedicated street-eaters need not despair. Food carts may no longer cluster conveniently in a single spot, but they are still thriving all over New York. Over the last few weeks I've been roaming the city, seeking superior carts. Avoiding all ordinary fare (no hot dogs, no gyros, no knishes), I have discovered that New York continues to be an extraordinary movable feast.

HALLO BERLIN Northwest corner of Fifth Avenue and 54th Street.

"Joe said could he have a brat with the works, and he'll settle with you next payday," says a hopeful man, walking up to the cart that has stood on this corner every day for the last 12 years.

"Sure, if he gives me a kiss," says Ralf Babiel, picking up a crusty roll. He snuggles one of his fat, snappy bratwursts inside and slathers it with sweet mustard horseradish sauce, sauteed onions and sauerkraut. He ladles some of his dill-scented potato salad into a cup and hands it over.

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