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Appetizers at the China Garden Restaurant on Leeland St. downtown Saturday March 03,2018. (Dave Rossman Photo)

Inside the storied history of Houston's oldest Chinese restaurant

Food

What to know about China Garden, Houston's oldest Chinese restaurant

Going on 50-plus years, the downtown Houston restaurant continues to wow with its heaping rice and meat platters and Texas-sized egg rolls.

Megha McSwain, Chron

Aug. 2, 2022Updated: Jan. 20, 2023 9:42 a.m.

China Garden is Houston's oldest Chinese restaurant.
Dave Rossman/For the Chronicle

In the age of DoorDashing and Favoring in meals, getting your hands on great Chinese food has never been easier. But in order to get a spread from Houston's oldest Chinese restaurant, and arguably one of the best in the city, you'll need to head to China Garden downtown.

The family-owned restaurant dates back to 1969, when husband-and-wife team David and Marian Jue originally opened it as store called Chinese Food Products—a resource they thought would be useful for the growing East Asian community in Houston. After only a year, they transitioned the business into a full-service restaurant named China Garden.

Rocket fans enjoy dinner before the game at the China Garden Restaurant on Leeland St. downtown Saturday March 03,2018. (Dave Rossman Photo)Dave Rossman/Freelance

David had some previous experience in hospitality after opening two Chinese restaurants in Bossier City, La., between 1956 and 1962, and the Beachcomber nightclub in Shreveport in 1964. The couple hoped to find success doing the same when they moved to Houston in 1968. China Garden originally opened just north of downtown, at 1119 Jackson Street, in a former paint store. It moved 10 years later to 1602 Leeland Street, where it currently stands today.

An early mention in the Houston Chronicle in 1971 announced China Garden as a new restaurant making its debut serving Chinese-American food for lunch and dinner, seven days a week. A follow-up story published in January 1974, ahead of the Chinese New Year, prominently featured a recipe for beef and broccoli, with an accompanying photo of David in chef's garb slicing beef with a Chinese cleaver. The same story hinted at how the China Garden team took pride in creating dishes using quality ingredients, noting that the "exceptional beef and asparagus was only available during fresh asparagus season."

David Jue of China Garden features in a 1974 food feature in the Houston Chronicle.
Houston Chronicle archives

In the following years, the restaurant became a fixture among Houston's rapidly changing dining scene. Visitors came from near and far to sample traditional dishes like hot and sour soup, large housemade crispy egg rolls, pork spareribs, fried wontons, Mongolian beef, and fresh whole Mandarin fish. When the Toyota Center was built downtown in the early 2000s, the restaurant's close proximity to the stadium made it a watering hole for game day patrons, concert-goers and out-of-towners.

China Garden has been on Leeland Street since 1979.
Dave Rossman/Freelance

For almost 40 years, David and Marian operated their restaurant together. In 2007, David passed away at 73 years old, and just last year, Marian, lovingly referred to by guests as "Mama" Jue, died from complications caused by COVID-19 at the age of 80. Now under the watchful eye of their children, siblings Carol Jue Churchill and Richard Jue, China Garden continues to operate with the warmth of family in mind.

China Garden is decorated with ornaments like the "lucky cat."
Dave Rossman/Freelance

An orange tree that Marian planted years ago in front of the restaurant was suddenly chopped down by the city mere months after her death in 2021. The symbolism of its absence is not lost on Jue Churchill, but she insists her mother is honored daily through the restaurant.

Copycat China Gardens may have popped up in Houston and beyond since, but the original remains at its permanent home on Leeland Street. The recognizable building, simply labeled "China Garden Restaurant" in eye-catching red letters, seems frozen in time. Its large dining room, decorated with traditional Chinese art, family photos and vintage menus, is often buzzing with activity and lively conversation, while nostalgic eats like those jumbo housemade egg rolls still impress diners.

China Garden

Find it: 1602 Leeland St, Houston, TX 77003; (713) 652-0745
Hours: Tuesday-Wednesday, 3-9 p.m.; Thursday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 3-9 p.m.

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