Houston may not be the birthplace of Tex-Mex, but the city has played a pivotal role in the cuisine's popularization. Ninfa "Mama Ninfa" Laurenzo kick-started the fajita craze at her East End restaurant, Ninfa's on Navigation, and another Tex-Mex joint—the oldest in Houston—is more than 80 years old.
That crown goes to Molina's Cantina, whose roots date back to 1941, although the restaurant went through many changes in name and location before arriving at its current iteration. First came Old Monterrey Restaurant at 1919 West Gray—now a Walgreens—where Raul Molina began working as a dishwasher and busboy shortly after he moved to Houston from Laredo, Mexico, at the age of 18.
Raul had been working at Old Monterrey for 10 years when he and his wife, Mary, bought the restaurant in 1941. The Molina family lived in a small apartment above the restaurant. Raul waited tables while Mary cooked and their sons, Raul Jr. and George, washed the dishes.
Two years later, the couple bought the Mexico City Restaurant on South Main, eventually renaming it Molina's Mexico City Restaurant in 1952, and later, Molina's Restaurant & Cantina. It moved locations a few times over the years. Today, there are three Molina's Cantina locations: one in west Houston (since 1966), one in Southside Place (since 2011), and another one in Fulshear that opened last year.
Generations of Houstonians have dined on Molina's enchiladas, fajitas and combo plates. The most notable local to dine here is no doubt U.S. President George H. W. Bush, who was a regular and avid supporter of the restaurant, eating here frequently with his family and appearing in commemorative TV spots.
Archives from the Houston Chronicle and the Houston Post always pinpointed Molina's as one of the former president's hangouts, in 1980s columns titled "Where Was George?" and "George Slept Here." (Bush never slept at Molina's, that we know of; the article was about hotels, with some restaurants mixed in.)
Bush Senior isn't the only politico to have recognized Molina's. Former Houston Mayor Annise Parker proclaimed July 1 Molina's Cantina Day in 2011.
When eating at Molina's, you're eating a piece of history—and you're reminded of it. On the menu, next to each original dish that's still being served today is a little "since 1941" red marker. These menu items include the chili con carne, the enchiladas de Tejas and the generous Mexico City dinner plate, which includes a beef taco, a cheese enchilada, a bean tostada, a chili tamale, guacamole, chili con queso, rice and beans.
Last year, Molina's celebrated its 80th anniversary. Month-long festivities included 41-cent tacos and free entrees to anyone born in 1941, as well as special dedications for 10 staff members who had worked at the restaurant 30 years or more. For their 50th anniversary in 1991, they surprised diners with original prices—15 cents instead of $6.50 for a plate (even the '90s price sounds nice these days.)
Raul Sr. and Mary died in 2001 and 1999, respectively. Today, the Molina legacy lives on with Raul Jr's three sons at the helm: Raul III, Ricardo and Roberto.
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