The din hits as soon as you walk through the door: a sea of shirts and red wine bottles lining every table at Le Relais de Venise. At 12:47pm midweek, the queue in the City outpost stretches from the restaurant floor to the door. It is filled with young financiers and old hands using its trademark double-serving of steak frites to mop up the bottles of Bordeaux rapidly depleting on the shelf. But the high-living doesn’t stop at the Bordeaux, which is merely the mid-point of the long, boozy lunch currently enjoying a spirited revival.  ...