The Duchess of Cornwall has expressed concern about the food on the island before her and Charles’s visit. But the restrictions under the revolution have eased – and dining out has flourished
There is an old joke about Cuban cuisine: “The three greatest triumphs of the Cuban revolution are education, health and sport, and the three greatest disappointments are breakfast, lunch and dinner.”
Perhaps this is why Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall, “wasn’t so sure about the food” ahead of her trip there with Prince Charles later this spring. But I’ve been travelling to Cuba on and off since 2007 and, as the director of the Latin American restaurant Paladar in London, I don’t think Camilla has anything to worry about.
Cuban food is not, as people often assume, overly spicy; the seasoning is actually quite bland. This was due to the lack of resources – everything in Cuba was state-controlled and farmers were forced to grow what they were told to. You can expect lots of braises, roasted meat and stews with tomatoes, salt and pepper, perhaps with a little paprika or cumin.
Traditionally, Cuban food is a mix of Spanish, African and Caribbean influences. On the coast, you tend to see more fish. Food is very basic – a common dish is moros y cristianos – rice and beans – or plantain; maybe chicken and pork.
The best food has come from the rise of the paladars – private restaurants that aren’t state-run, which my restaurant takes its name from. The government started allowing paladars around the year 2000, so that people could have their own little businesses in their homes. They were pretty restrictive – think a few tables in your front room.
One of the most famous paladars in Cuba is La Guarida in Havana, which means “the hideaway”. It is on the top floor of an old mansion in a rougher part of town, but it has become quite swanky (it has a lovely roof terrace and you can expect luxurious food such as lobster). Since 2011, there has been a real change in that these places have been allowed to become more prosperous.
The dish I often tell people to try is ropa vieja – a beef stew that is cooked down until it is shredded and tender. The name literally means “old clothes” because of how the beef looks after it has cooked. The other dish I would recommend is lechon – essentially, a spit-roasted pig, cooked for a very long time until the skin gets nice and crisp. It is delicious, resourceful and very simple.
As for what to drink, of course the rum out there outclasses anything else. Whether drunk neat or mixed into a cocktail such as a daquiri or mojito, Cuban rum is a must for anyone visiting. Often it will be served in a cognac glass after dinner, perhaps with a cigar on the side.
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