1. Know your knots.
Though the only real difference is the amount of fabric used, each knot has its own connotations. The three most common are:
The Windsor
Named after the indubitably stylish Duke of Windsor, the formality of the Windsor knot (usually worn with a spread collar shirt) makes it ideal for job interviews and formal occasions. It was created out of the public’s enthusiasm for the duke’s noted fat tie knots, usually achieved using a wider, heavier tie. Basically, it’s the fattest of knots and it’s meant to be symmetrical, which makes it trickier to achieve for the irregular tie wearer.
The Windsor half knot
Symmetrical, like the Windsor, but with a smaller knot – it’s a more modest version of the full Windsor. A good option for smartness that feels a bit less showy.
The four in hand
The simplest one, and probably closest to the method you learned at school. This one is slightly asymmetrical and therefore more forgiving, less tricky to achieve, and suited to more relaxed occasions (if you would ever wear a tie to more relaxed occasions).
2. Be cautious with your knot size
This is a delicate calculation. A common mistake is using too much of the slim section of the tie, which can lead to a tiny knot. While a fairly slim knot is de rigeur at the moment, a truly minuscule one will look odd indeed. Too big, on the other hand, and it will look ill-judged and even pompous, like a slippery salesman; all giant Windsor knot and no suit jacket. The trick is to work out exactly where, on the tie, you should be creating your knot from, then go for a simple four-in-hand knot on a slim tie, which creates a modern, elongated look.
3. Dimples matter
You’ll see this even in the simplest of tie knots, the four in hand. Here are your instructions: start with the wide end of the tie on your right extending about 12in beneath the narrow end. Cross the wide end over the narrow and back underneath. Repeat this step. Now pass the wide end through the loop. With your index finger inside keeping the knot loose, draw the wide end down and tighten up to the collar by holding the narrow end and sliding the knot up, creating a dimple just under the knot by pressing into the fabric with your finger. Make sure you create the dimple under the knot, otherwise your tie will look flatter and less finished.
4. Practise – or cheat
As with all things, practice makes perfect; guys in the City of London are so experienced they can create perfect Windsors with one eye fixed on the FTSE 100 index. If that’s not you, consult online tutorials like this one or download this new app from Hermès that makes tying a tie more fun than chore, explaining the basic methods while allowing you to match tie patterns and shirt designs. It might be wise to avoid this one, though, which details 85 ways of knotting a tie – three knots are enough.
5. Know your tie trends
Current wisdom dictates that a slim black or navy tie feels modern, a reference to rudeboy culture (as seen at the recent Somerset House exhibition) and new-wave bands, such as the male members of Blondie. A tie bar is a sharp addition here. Alternatively, go for texture: think knitted silk, tweed, flannel or one of Marwood’s English lace ties. Try not to wear too many patterns of similar scale; block colour is a safe bet to avoid school uniform connotations. If you do want a pattern, consider monochrome with subtle tonal and textural differentiation. The bow tie is still out after the dandyish excesses a few seasons ago.
6. If in doubt, take tie inspiration
As with most sartorial matters, Patrick Grant, of E Tautz and Sewing Bee fame, is the master of contemporary tie wearing, as is the comedian Richard Ayoade (who wears Marwood). If you can’t bear a skinny tie, look to action men Matthew McConaughey and Kit Harington instead. Their favoured slightly loosened, nonchalant four-in-hand style is simple, not too considered, and has the added bonus of making you look as though you’re about to break into a cinematic run through Manhattan traffic.
7. Don’t even consider wearing a novelty tie
No. Not ever.
