TZ80 wide angle, hand held |
The
Paradox of the Panasonic TZ80 (ZS60)
Paradox: A thing that combines contradictory features
or qualities.
The
TZ80
is the latest and arguably best iteration
of Panasonic’s pocket superzoom/travel zoom genre which began with the TZ1 in
2006.
The camera is aimed at buyers wanting to record family
events, holidays and travel.
My own family experience is that most of these people
are snapshooters who set the Mode Dial on [iA] and leave it there.
The problem is that the camera does not give its best
results when used this way.
The paradox is that the person who can
get the best from the camera is the expert/enthusiast/experienced user who is
unlikely to buy it.
This
series of posts is
for that small and possibly eccentric group of expert/enthusiast users who like
me decide to use the TZ80 and enjoy the challenge of coaxing the best possible
results from it.
There
is an old aphorism which holds that perfect is the enemy of
good.
The quest for perfection is a prominent feature of
camera reviews and user forums which host endless discussions, comparisons and
debates about the relative merits of various models.
I have seen a well known photo magazine declare camera
A which scored 4320 lines per image height ‘better’ than camera B which ‘only’
scored 3950 lines.
My own experience is that in the real world, 95% of the apparent sharpness variation
between cameras is probably determined by the user’s ability to hold the device
still and to ensure that the subject is
in focus.
Preoccupation with the finer details of technical
image quality appears to me more like obsession than meaningful evaluation of
the real world merits of various camera models.
Which brings me to reconsideration of the Panasonic
TZ80 (ZS60) compact superzoom.
Some time ago I bought a Panasonic TZ110 and a TZ80
when they became available in Australia.
After testing each I sold the TZ110 and was about to sell the TZ80 but
my wife asked me to keep it as she found it to be an appealing little camera
and thought she might like to use it from time to time.
As the camera was in the house, I picked it up again
and re-acquainted myself with its capabilities which turned out to be
substantial and its challenges which require thoughtful management strategies.
I doubt that any prospective camera buyer seeking some
kind of perfection would give the TZ80 a moment’s attention.
TZ80 Long end of the zoom, hand held. The colourful workshop facades are one kilometer from the camera. |
But consider what this camera offers:
* A 30x zoom spanning from really wide (FLE24mm) to
super long (FLE720mm) with Optical Image Stabiliser.
* RAW or JPG output or both.
* Sophisticated autofocus with many features including
Panasonic DFD which enables follow focus on moving subjects. Rapid control of AF area position and size.
* Useful manual focus with peaking and PIP display for
speed and accuracy.
* 4K video and 4K photo.
* 18 Mpx sensor.
* Touch screen operation.
* Accurate exposure with decent highlight and shadow
detail (dynamic range).
* Zebras and easily accessed exposure compensation for
control of highlight exposure.
* A built in, always ready EVF of decent quality.
* Built in flash.
* Auto Panorama capability.
* Twin Dial control layout.
* Several buttons with user assignable function.
* Q Menu with quick access to 13 functions.
* An extensive Menu system enabling access to a
multitude of user selected functions and features.
* No need for accessories such as a filter or external
flash (and no way to fit them anyway).
* All this comes in a
truly pocketable size, which I prefer to carry in a LowePro Portland 20
waist pouch. The camera with battery,
card and wrist strap weighs only 280 grams.
You can see from the list above that this is a proper
photographer’s camera.
The extensive list of specifications, features and
controls put the TZ80 well beyond the realm of ‘happy snaps’ compact.
So why are enthusiast photographers not flocking to
buy one and are not singing its praises on user forums ?
I think the answer to this question contains two
elements:
1. The first
and the one which I think will be most obvious to reviewers and new users is
image quality. This in turn devolves to two factors, lens and sensor.
1.1. While the lens is a marvel of compact superzoom
technology utilising multiple aspheric surfaces, it does have limitations.
Specifically the edges and corners are soft towards the wide end of the focal
length range and resolution over the whole frame progressively declines from
mid zoom towards the long end of the range.
In the middle section of the zoom range the lens is
actually quite decently sharp right across the frame.
1.2. The sensor has 18 Mpx on the so-called ‘1/2.3
inch’ size with actual dimensions 6.17 x 4.55mm. This is about the same size as
one of the buttons on the back of the camera. How they (‘they’ being presumably
Sony but neither Panasonic nor Sony are saying so I don’t really know) cram 18
million pixels onto this smartphone size sensor is a micro-engineering
achievement way beyond my comprehension.
Anyway somehow they do it but the result is abundant
luminance noise at all ISO sensitivity settings including base ISO 80.
So the result of the ‘image quality’ factors is that
when files from a TZ80 are viewed on screen at 100% the appearance tends to range
from ‘acceptable’ at low ISO settings to ‘hideous’ at high ISO settings.
2. Which brings me to the second element which is a
bit more complex so please bear with me…..
I have found that by using strategies involving RAW
capture and judicious use of the A and S Modes, followed by adjustments in
Adobe Camera Raw specifically tailored to the output from this camera, I can
produce files which print decently well up to A2 size (420 x 594 mm) which is
about as large as I want to print from any image source.
I am guessing that most reviewers and users do not
make full use of these strategies resulting in a lower standard of output than
is possible with this camera.
Aperture
limitations
The widest lens aperture ranges from f3.3 at focal
length equivalent (FLE) 24mm to f6.4 at FLE 720mm. The smallest aperture at all
focal lengths is f8.
Now here is the problem:
a) At FLEs from 24 to about 50mm the edges and corners
are soft at the widest aperture. This is
most noticeable if fine foliage is present at the edges and corners. Best sharpness across the frame is at about
f4.5-f5.
b) Sharpness degradation due to diffraction at the
aperture diaphragm starts at about f4. On my tests center sharpness is
detectably worse at f5.6 than f4. So you don’t want to stop down any further
than about f5.
But at the longer focal lengths you don’t gots no
choice because the lens only gives you f6.4.
Therefore it is impossible to get
really sharp pictures at the long end of the zoom. This is where the post capture strategies
come in to produce results which are quite presentable.
Aperture
strategies
1. For landscape and similar subjects in bright light I
set A Mode and f4.5-f5.
2. Indoors and in low light I set a low shutter speed
in S Mode and let the camera use f3.3 at FLE 24mm. A large central area of the
frame is decently sharp. Fine details at the corners don’t fare so well.
3. At the long end of the zoom I always use the widest
available aperture.
Shutter
speed limitations
With the TZ80 hand held and a reasonably static
subject I always want to use the slowest possible shutter speed in order to
keep the ISO sensitivity as low as possible in order to minimise luminance
noise.
I recommend each user experiment to find the slowest
shutter speed they can manage at each focal length range and still produce a
majority of shake free frames. This can vary considerably between individuals
and with exercise level, heart rate, breathing, hand tremor, technique and so
forth.
I find that 1/15 sec at the wide end and 1/200 sec at
the long end produce a reasonably high percentage of sharp enough frames if I
am calm, still and use good technique.
Shutter
speed strategies
Indoors at any focal length and outdoors whenever the
long end of the zoom is used, I recommend setting S on the Mode dial. I do not use the long end of the zoom
indoors.
I then set a low shutter speed appropriate to the
focal length in use as determined by previous testing.
Firing
solution strategies
The following discourse is based on hand held camera
use. Settings and strategies are different when the camera is on a tripod, but
the whole point of a camera like this is to operate without the need for a
tripod or other accessories.
I call the combination of Aperture, Shutter Speed, ISO and Exposure Compensation used for any
exposure the ‘firing solution’.
In the Custom Menu I set the LVF and Monitor Disp.
Style to ‘viewfinder’ type with key camera data beneath the preview image. In
this configuration the Aperture, Shutter Speed, ISO setting and Exposure
Compensation status are most easily seen.
In Capture Phase of use I constantly monitor this data
and switch between A Mode and S Mode to give me the best possible combination
of Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO sensitivity for the conditions and focal
length in use.
Occasionally I use P Mode but only if the camera gives
me key exposure parameters in line with my predetermined optimums for each
focal length and subject condition.
I also sometimes use M Mode if none of the auto
exposure modes gives the exposure parameters I want.
I never use iA Mode.
I do shoot RAW + JPG to compare the results of my post
processing with that of the camera.
Other
strategies
When using slow shutter speeds with static subjects at
the long end of the zoom range I quite often find frames with camera shake
induced blur, sometimes with side-to-side double imaging. One strategy to
manage this is obviously to increase the shutter speed but that runs up the ISO
setting which increases luminance noise.
Another strategy is to use Burst M and fire off about
6 shots. I generally find one or two of these will be sharper than the others.
Another issue common in the TZ80 and other small
sensor compacts is loss of highlight detail when subject brightness range is
high. I watch the zebras and apply
negative exposure compensation if they are prominent.
I allocate Exposure Compensation to the rear dial to
make this quick and easy and use Zebra 1 set at 105%.
There is one little glitch caused by allocating
exposure compensation to the rear dial, namely that the dial does nothing when
M Mode is set. This is a firmware programming mistake by the boffins at
Panasonic. What should happen is that the rear dial reverts to changing shutter
speed when M Mode is set.
There are two workarounds for this.
One is to set S Mode on the Mode Dial then select
the shutter speed required. When the
Mode Dial is turned to M that shutter speed will be carried over. You can
adjust Aperture with the lens ring as usual.
The other is to access shutter Speed via the Q Menu.
Neither is elegant. Fortunately M Mode is infrequently
required.
Holding
the camera still
I have found that the most important requirement for
obtaining decently sharp pictures with the TZ80 is holding the camera still at
the point of exposure.
This involves
* Relaxed posture, preferably aided by resting one’s
arms on a horizontal or vertical support.
* Calm demeanour aided by mini meditation for
breathing and body control.
* Optimum camera holding strategy which I have
described here.
* Viewing through the EVF enables greater stability
than monitor viewing.
Good camera holding technique is especially important
at the long end of the zoom. The camera is very light with very little inertia.
I have found a very big difference between the results of good versus
not-so-good holding technique.
Next:
Post capture strategies in Adobe Camera Raw
Hello,thank you very much for your reviews...
ReplyDeleteI was looking for the Lumix FZ80 but I'm also looking for this TZ80...
I have a Lumix TZ7 since 8 years now and even if I'm still very happy with it I miss a few things, principally zoom ("only" 12x) and the settings...
So without really looking into the specifications I thought that I'd have to buy a bridge camera to have both of that...
But then I see that TZ(80, for exemple) have as much settings as FZ(80, for exemple)... Well, apparently with less buttons but still P, A, S and M modes and the possibility to have the same settings, shutter speed...
Speaking about the zoom, even if the FZ80 has a 60x zoom, its equivalence with its wide angle (20 mm against 24 mm for the TZ80) is more 50x (24x50 = 1 200) so their differences are less important than 30x or 60x...
Another difference between the TZ80 and the FZ80 is the maximum aperture which is F/2,8 for the FZ80 against F/3,3 for the TZ80...
But the FZ80 start at 20 mm so maybe at 24 mm it is almost the same as the TZ80 (F/3,3) ?
Well my principal question is if the image quality is very different on the TZ80 and on the FZ80 ?
Because they share the same sensor size and the same resolution...
I have TZ70 (same lens with smaller megapixels), and it's not always easy to decide what aperture to use on the wide-end. For landscape photos I mostly use f/5, because as you mentioned in your article, f/3.3 makes the edges soft, actually f/5 still does, but it's a bit better. However, if the lights are not the best, and I usually don't use a tripod, it's still better to use f/3.3 and ISO 80/100 than f/5 and ISO 200.
ReplyDeleteIn case of macro photos, it's different, as I usually take photos of flowers, plants (insects too, but not on the wind-end), and f/3.3 is usually the best, because in most of the cases the subject doesn't fill the whole image, edges are already in the background and blurred, so edge softness is not a big problem, while I also need faster shutter speed and better sharpness in the middle than in case of landscape photos.
Everything between macro and landscape are questionable, if the lights are limited, I always use the biggest possible aperture, however in good light conditions, it depends on what is on the edges.
Fastest shutter speed is also limited in case of TZ70 (1/2000), as there is no electronic shutter (TZ80 has), so in the winter in the snowy mountains and bright conditions I even used f/8 to avoid clipping highlights. Since that I bought a MagFilter adapter and an ND filter.
Personally I usually use M mode.