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43 Discussions
Question 6 months ago
Hey,
How many GPIO pins are there on the board? I was thinking of connecting them to a 4 channel relay to control multiple lights. Is that possible?
1 year ago
It appears the newer Hue lights have a daughter board with the processor on it. It's connected to the mainboard by 7 connections. Possibly similar (I appreciate not identical) to the Cree lamps documented here: https://www.instructables.com/id/Controlling-Any-Light-With-Philips-HUE/
Reply 1 year ago
Hi everyone!
The daughterboard runs fine with DC 5V! and after desoldering one of the transistors you get a good PWM signal (inverted) which could be used to drive a NPN standard transistor. Now you're free to drive whatever you want :-)
I use a powerful MOSFET (375W) to dim 21 x 10W halogen lamps (12VDC).
First test with single 40W lamp was nice! no heat at all (except the lamp) ;-)
The board itself runs with 3.3V but I use 5V to drive the MOSFET for "better" switching and lower heat on the power circuit.
Reply 8 months ago
Hello All,
I am also using these bulbs as driverts for external leds (led strips). I am using BC547 transistor and IRLZ44n mosfoet.
I have made some measurement and I would like to give you some info.
1. Dautherboard shoudn't be powered without mainboard. When you power it this way it takes almost 100mA of current and becomes very hot (70*C). If you power it without removing main board it takes 30mA and it is only warm. I am powering smaller capacitor on mainboard with removed big capacitor. It works great this way.
2. The transistor has no influence to PWM signal, you can leave it.
3. I also discovered POWER ON 3,3V / POWER OFF 0V signal, but it is very hard to reach. You should also be careful, because there is a few another places where you can find PWR ON/OFF but it works only when PWM is from minimum to 90%, above 90% it changes to "0" like for turned of lamp.
4. mainbord shouldn't be powered from 230V when leds ring is removed, the voltage floates all the time, even if ou put a resistor instead of the leds.
Regards
Reply 8 months ago
Thanks for sharing. I also found the on/off signal on the motherboard. But, it's beyond my skills to make a a solid connection. Instead I used the inverted PWM signal with RC filter and inverse comparator circuit to drive a relay. That's a lot of components for such an easy job. But is works. The downside is that the lights will go on after a power surge or when the motherboard dies. But that applies to most circuits that are described in this forum.
Reply 11 months ago
Hi,
great work, thanks for sharing. I would like to do the same but dimming AC bulb. Do you think i could use this module: https://robotdyn.com/ac-light-dimmer-module-1-chan...
Thanks
Reply 11 months ago
Hi,
sorry - time is a bit rare these days...
On first look I'm not 100% sure about that dimmer-module - could work...
you need some Optocoupler which is on that board. The output is 3.3V but very weak and inverted... so probably you will also need some extra transistor to invert the pwm and get some more power.
Reply 11 months ago
good to know... i will try. Thank u for reply
Reply 1 year ago
Hi William-George. Actually the daughter board runs at anything from 4-12.5v. I did a little more reverse engineering of the main B22 power board to see what else was going on. There is also a status pin that indicates 3 states, ON, OFF and CHANGE. My only worry (before I separated was if the micro would know if it didn't see the LED feedback signal (there's a divider from the full 90v on the LED string) that goes back to the daughter board.
But as it seems happy running my under kitchen cupboard with CW/WW strips I'm hoping it's not going to shutdown on a diagnostics feedback failure ..
BTW you don't need to take the transistor off, you still get the nice square 3.3v 1KHz PWM from the pin you indicated. My feeling is (not tried yet) is that you can just add a pull-up from the OC PWM signal on the daughter board to the 12v supply. It is strange that the TP6/7 didn't have the clean PWM.
Anyway I'm driving some of the cheap "RGB LED Amplifiers" which actually work well.
Reply 1 year ago
Hi All, Hopefully someone will be able to help me! I am trying to use the "smart" part of the bulb to allow me to switch on and off battery powered LEDs via the Hue app and also Apple Homekit. If I understand this correctly, the daughter board on the new bulb is what "connects" to the Hue system and it can run off as little as 4v. If thats right, once I have removed the daughter board from the main board, where do I solder a power supply to the board and where do I connect to the LEDs power supply? Any suggestions greatly appreciated! Or if anyone has a better way of controlling battery operated lights via Homekit!!! (The real problem is that the lights are on a model that is on a rotating turntable and I figured that providing some "smart" switching to the lights was easier than trying to fit a slip ring to the turntable!)
Reply 1 year ago
Hi,
This is very interesting for me, thanks for sharing, as I had the previous board of the B22 which doesn't have the daughter board. I wonder if you could give me some information on where you bought the newer B22 with the daughter board ? Is there a serial number change on this new version of it ?
I bought mine from amazon and I have these numbers:
ASIN : B0152WXDD
SKU : 929001137101
I'd like to get the daughter board but I don't want to waste another similar B22 bulb without it.
Could you describe the wiring and the parts on your last photo ?
Another question, but the last one, could you give me some information on the NPN transistor and the mosfet so I can buy them too for my project.
Thanks in advance for your time.
Reply 1 year ago
HI CaiusTitus, I saw your private mail .. same as this so thought I'd reply so others can read.
Regards getting the correct B22 (only UK market) .. this is very much unpredicatable. I bought 4x B2 so far a twin pack from Amazon UK and Argos UK. Both sets have the daughterboard. I've have to check the Hue part numbers later but were bought in last 5 months. I've only opened 1 of the euro E27's and this had the large board that 0xFred shows. I guess it depends which country you are in .. will change outcome.
The wiring is easy and you need 3 connections. (1) 4v-25v DC supply (2) Ground (3) PWM 3.3v.
The main issue is that this 3.3v signal is quite low and not enough for driving the power fet that W-G used, and output will be inverted. This looks like an FDH5500 ( https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=fdh5500 ) but not 100% sure. There are many power fet's you can use, just depends on your current / voltage loads and with / without heatsink. I used a IRF540N ( https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=fdh5500 ) in my tiny lamp control box shown below.
As for NPN, then this looks like BC107 or something like that. It's too big for me so I use a small fet and mounted on the back of the daughterboard (see description below).
Reply 1 year ago
Hi tekkfreakk, thank you for your reply.
I Managed to find a bulb with the daughter board here in France at Darty, it's an E27 and the packaging is a little more grey(cf. photo below) than the previous one ( my previous B22) and mine had the silver text too.
Regarding the (1) 4v-25v DC supply and (2) Ground I was thinking about leaving the daughter board on the bigger one maybe desoldering the big brown capacitor to get acces for soldering the wire to get the PWM signal and then put it back.
About the FDH5500 or the IRF540N as I intend to drive 4x 7.2w 230v spotlights I think that their V(BR)DSS : Drain-to-Source Breakdown Voltage of 100v / 55V is not enough, is that right ? Could u suggest me a suitable one or maybe I'm just wrong about this.
Also is it possible that the 3.3v is weak because the daughter board is no longer on the big one ? Also I'm not sure what you mean by weak as for the IRF540N the VGS(th) Gate Threshold Voltage needs to be between 2 and 4V ?
Thanks in advance for your time.
Reply 1 year ago
Hi CaiusTitus,
I tried to run the daughterboard powered by motherboard without the LEDs ...without success. I didn't manage to run it that way.... lost connection to the controller .... voltages and signals went crazy in the moment I disconnected the LEDs...
to run AC voltage lamps n-chnnel mosfet will not work! you could try some "solid state relais" --> there are other ways but this could be quick & dirty solution!
Have a look at switching times (pwm signal is 1KHz) but should be no problem.
The PWM signal directly on the board has not much power - if you connect an additional transistor or mosfet or solid state relais this will not work! Thats why you have to replace the onboard l transistor or modify the circuits on the daughterboard.
Reply 1 year ago
Hi everyone,
sorry for the long delay .. I'm very busy these days...
BINGO - The NPN is BC107 and the mosfet FDH5500 - as tekkfreakk already mentioned! (good job) a Vishay IRFP064PBF is fine too.
The 3.3V PWM is very weak! even joust connecting the BC107 parallel makes a ugly wave out of the nice square-signal!
And its probably possible to find other solutions - but I have not the time to do more reverse-engineering - so my solution is quick and dirty ;-)
I bought the bulbs ad Conrad.de (here in Germany) - important ist the latest revision! Her in Germany are big electronic markets - selling the old versions of the hue bulbs! But in some online-shops like conrad.de they tell you that it is the latest version they sell! The latest version is labeled silver on white background - see pictures!
One more thing: If switching lot of power - the PSU will make a 1kHz noise! (the PWM is about 1kHz) So always use a PSU with lot more power then needed to avoid this!
Reply 1 year ago
Hi William-George, I guess you just had some BC107 lying around .. ;-) I prefer to use SMD power fets and attach them to the daughterboard. This is nice solution for the PT4115 GU5.3 lamps I have .. anyway I've attached the picture of my Hue part number and looks like identical to yours but the last digit 0== E27? and 1==B22? .. so everyone look for the SILVER text and the Model:929001137xB ...
Reply 1 year ago
Hi. I would like to thank you all, for your import. But I do have a question if I feed the daughter board with 5v can I run a 3-32vdc ssr straight off the 3.3v connection that you indicated, or do I need to use a mosfet or a transistor before the ssr?
Reply 1 year ago
Hi Trev1969, regards the ON/OFF on the daughterboard, to be honest I haven't looked to see where it is .. as I was only interested in the PWM signal. The SSR you mention may not work from 3.3v as it may not turn the SSR LED fully on. You'd need some fet to boost the 3.3v signal with pullup to 5v-12v etc. Oh, and pushing up the supply voltage to the daughterboard is no good as the ULDO drops it back to 3.3v internally.
Reply 1 year ago
Hi.
I want to do the simular thing. Just power up the pcb with daughter board. Control a SSR and then use the 230v to control some external lights.
The problem i have, is that the output is 110+-VDC. Which is too much for the SSR (3-24vdc)
How did you solve it? Where should i connect? Would love to get some help her!
Yours,
Fabian
Reply 1 year ago
So I figured out where to get on/off on the board, but when I connect it to a ssr it drops the voltage to 1.96 volts which isn’t enough to trigger the relay so I need a way to boost the voltage any suggestions?