Sometimes, nothing satisfies quite like a plate full of hot dough, fat, and sugar. I'm speaking, of course, of beignets. When the mood strikes, these pillowy confections simply can't be replaced. People may try to ply you with Indian fry bread, funnel cakes, or perhaps even sopapillas. The particularly unscrupulous might even attempt to fob off a bag of greasy and hollow (literally and psychologically) Cinnamon Twistas from Taco Bell. Let them keep their State Fair novelties and anti dusting agent.

My beignet itch is most often scratched by Crescent City Beignets. They're close to my house, inexpensive, and delicious. There are actually quite a few options to consider, ranging from the classic pillow-shaped puffs of fried dough topped with a liberal dose of powdered sugar, to kid-friendly beignet sticks coated in sickly-sweet chocolate or strawberry sauce.

For my money, the original is the only way to go. The puff factor is important, here. Trapped air is essential in creating the signature texture of crispy outside and cloudlike interior, and the originals have just the right surface area for the job. The skinny ones end up being overly dense, in my opinion. The sauces are also ignorable, tasting, as they do, like melted Halloween candy of dubious provenance.

You have to be careful about timing, as well. Show up right after Lamar High School and St. John's let out across the street, and the small shop gets jam-packed with teenagers looking for a sugar fix. This can create an unfortunate overloading of the fryer, the crush lowering the temperature of the oil, resulting in grease-heavy beignets.

Go when it's quiet. Grab a café au lait, and tear into your beignets as soon as they hit the table. You will scorch your fingers, but it will be worth it. Just be careful not to inhale as you bite, lest you end up choking on powdered sugar, and up look like some sort of coked-up dragon.

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• Sweets

A recent survey from YouGov attempted to determine the favorite sandwiches in America. Not surprisingly, their choices were rather on the bland side with grilled cheese, grilled chicken and turkey topping the list. There were also some regional favorites like lobster rolls and French dips that were popular in certain locations. No doubt there were areas where dishes like the Hot Brown in Kentucky would have made the list there but were a bit too hyper-local for the rest of the country.

Since we talk a lot about sandwiches, we started thinking we probably need a list of sandwiches that would be popular here in Houston. In fairness, we aren't going to get into fast, deli-counter type sandwiches because, sure, Subway's biggest seller is probably the turkey, but that doesn't really make it representative of H-Town. Also, no burgers. As we have said before, they absolutely deserve their own category.

One of the nation's faves does align with ours, however.

5. BBQ

Houston is nearly synonymous with barbecue. Ask anyone who visits and they want to immediately be pointed in the direction of the best brisket. We can't really blame them. It is great. So, it makes sense that barbecue sandwiches would be on the list. In Houston — and lot of Texas, really — the classic is sliced or chopped brisket on a bun with a little sauce (frequently on the side), maybe some raw onions and pickles. No need to adulterate the meet with a bunch of nonsense. Hell, we've been handed sliced brisket on a white bun with nothing else on it as if to say, "If you are going to screw with the meat by adding bread, this is all you get, yankee."

If we were advising someone here for a visit, we might point them to the Rueben at Roegels (only served on Thursdays), which is a nice blend of traditional, smokey barbecue and a classic deli sandwich.

4. Grilled Cheese

Ok, so we admit that we would be nuts to not include a classic grilled cheese on our list. Perhaps the ultimate in comfort food, it's also one of the more deceptively easy sandwiches to make (and make poorly). There are plenty of variations, some of which include tomatoes (pass) and others that turn a grilled cheese into...well, NOT a grilled cheese. But for a great American dish, it's pretty hard to beat it no matter which way you slice the cheese.

Our favorite in town is at the Classic All Day, which blends cheddar and pimento with pickles. Yes, pickles. Try it, we swear.

3. Torta

Part one of the "things we owe to our blended heritage" portion of the list is the wonderful Mexican torta. For the uninitiated, a torta is some kind of meat — chicken, beef, pork — with, typically, sour cream, refried beans, avocado, lettuce and tomato on a soft, oval talera roll. It's really a remarkable sandwich you should try if you have never had one.

And, in Houston, it's hard to top the Pechuga Torta at La Tapatia.

2. Po' Boy

Sometimes, your imports are owed to more than immigration. In some cases, the blending of cultures that is so seamless in Houston, yet so painful in other places, produces some incredible food. That is the case of the Houston po' boy. Unlike the seafood varieties you'll find in New Orleans (even though we have a few of those ourselves), the tradition here is a mixture of Cajun and Italian. The classic is a perfect sub roll/baguette made at Royal Bakery filled with sliced Italian deli meats and topped with "chow chow," a sweet and spicy relish that has to be tried to be believed.

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Of course, for this we have the Original from Antone's. If you had to make a billboard and put on it a picture of the "sandwich of Houston," this might be it.

1. Bánh Mì

It is a tribute to our vastly diverse population that the sandwich probably most representative of Houston was born of both Vietnamese and French cuisine. Here in the most diverse city in America, it has taken over, becoming basically its own sub-genre of sub sandwich lore. We've featured quite a few of them here and will certainly feature more in the future. They pop up everywhere now with a variety of meat options (and vegetarian versions) to go with cucumbers, pickled carrot and/or daikon, jalapeño and mayo on a baguette. Most of us could eat one every day — which makes it so great they are often really inexpensive.

Our personal favorite is the Chopped Ribeye at Roostar. We would eat the bread all by itself, but we are thrilled we don't have to.

• Sandwiches

In December 2017, the folks behind Houston's most polarizing chain barbecue brand and the city's quintessential restaurant empire opened a smokehouse unlike anything else on the company's roster. Pappas Delta Blues Smokehouse arrived, rather quietly, in Webster, Texas — a stone's throw from Space Center Houston and League City.

The concept is markedly dissimilar to the standard Pappas Bar-B-Q brand on many levels. For one, the full service bar, restaurant and scratch kitchen is more upscale than any traditionally casual Pappas Bar-B-Q location. This is no counter-service, pay by weight, in-and-out kind of joint. It's a craft cocktails and beer, prime steaks on the menu, $33 for a three-meat plate kind of joint.

When it opened, Delta Blues was perhaps the first of its kind in Houston. Goode Company had already introduced the upscale BBQ-Tex-Mex concept earlier the same year with their Kitchen & Cantina opening in the Woodlands. And Ronnie Killen had, the year before, wowed with his even more upscale, beef-centric Killen's STQ. Both concepts incorporated elements of their creators' initial concepts into new menus. Still, Delta Blues is something else altogether. An expressly barbecue-focused upscale reinvention of the Pappas Bar-B-Q name.

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The house old fashioned and all signature cocktails are half-off during happy hour.

Photo by Carlos Brandon

Outside the decor is suburban kitsch. Something between Pappadeaux and Texas Road House. But inside things get more upscale. The dining room is dimly lit with a steakhouse aesthetic. The bar area takes up almost half the square footage, with dozens of high end bottles and craft taps on display. Also the hostess stand doubles as a display fridge full of yet unsmoked meat, which is pretty cool. And yet, all in all, the upscale nature of the place robs the diner of a genuine smokehouse experience. Despite the impressive ambiance, the very nature of the concept is antithetical to Texas barbecue. On smokehouse aesthetics Delta Blues Smokehouse scores a 5.5/10.

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Mix of moist and lean prime brisket, smoked 18 long hours.

Photo by Carlos Brandon

It's no secret that the barbecue quality at any Pappas location, in particular the brisket, is a long ways short of amazing. Perhaps that loss of quality over the years, the notoriously dry and paper-thin brisket, is what motivated the company to reinvent itself via this new venture. Delta Blues' head chef and pitmaster Michael Velardi smokes only Creekstone prime briskets. He smokes them round the clock, 18-hours each, in wood-burning Oyler smokers. He also rubs them in safflower oil before seasoning with a thick layer of assorted peppers and salts. The final product, from my one and only experience, was lusciously flavored, fork tender, and intensely fatty.

While the moist slices were far too fatty, with a near 50/50 ratio of actual meat to pure fat, the so-called "lean" slices were essentially perfect. A bark-covered fat cap sat atop a thick slice of perfectly tender and flaky beef. Smoke flavor was plentiful and the coloring consistent. On quality of brisket Delta Blues Smokehouse scores an 8/10.

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St. Louis style ribs are some of the best in Texas.

Photo by Carlos Brandon

While past reviews have remarked on the concept's renewed focus on outstanding brisket, based on our experience that focused is shared, at least in part, with the St. Louis style pork ribs. Smoked until bones are little more than formalities, these ribs were thoroughly glazed, with a thin and chewy outer bark concealing small slabs of tender meat. Meat that so effortlessly slid free of it's bones one could pop them like candy and devour an entire rack without stopping for air. On quality of non-brisket proteins Delta Blues Smokehouse scores a 9/10.

Our two-meat rib combo came with two sides: Brussels sprouts and creamed corn pudding. The former was drab. Under-steamed and under-seasoned, the preparation did little to mask the sprouts' natural bitterness. The latter, however, shone. Thick not watery, the corn's natural sweetness countered by the slight heat of jalepenos and taste of cilantro. Other sides choices include pit-smoked pork and beans, chilled kale and buttered mashed potatoes. On quality of sides Delta Blues Smokehouse scores a 6.5/10.

With a Dallas-area location on its way (set to open in September) the Delta Blues Concept may well replace the original Pappas chain in the future. A possibility this writer is admittedly giddy about. Despite its prices, Delta Blues is a top-flight Houston smokehouse. One of the finest smoked meat establishments in and of Houston, and a brilliant combination of Texan and non-Texan barbecue traditions. While the original Pappas often feels like a bad parody of Houston barbecue, Delta Blues is the saving shot of adrenaline the company desperately needed.

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Vic and Anthony's Steakhouse, 1510 Texas,  hosted the " Culinary Goes Hollywood" finale dinner of the Landry's Inc. Signature Groups' Houston Chefs Series 2019 this past Saturday, August 10. The exclusive experience included three passed appetizers and eight courses, each paired with a themed cocktail or beverage. The dishes were inspired by Oscar-winning films and each chef brought their creativity to the table. The Houston Press got a first hand look at the stunning array of food and drink, all served while a string quartet played such tunes as Portugal. The Man's "Feel It Still" and Metallica's "Nothing Else Matters." Not your great-great-great grandma's string quartet.

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The string quartet was hip.

Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero

The guests were met with a choice of cocktails, including the Planter's Punch, meant to accompany Frank Lewis' (Morton's the Steakhouse) delicious barbecue baked oyster with pepper jack bechamel, befitting the "Gone With the Wind" theme. A champagne cocktail was paired with Ryan Braden's (Brenner's on the Bayou)  lamb phyllo cigar inspired by "Casablanca". The slight gaminess of the tender lamb was tempered with delicious Moroccan spices and a harissa sauce with the perfect amount of heat. Ricky Cruz of Grotto Westheimer had the task of creating an appetizer inspired by the film "Forrest Gump." Of course, that means shrimp and Cruz's tasso stuffed shrimp was plump and tasty, accompanied by a Dr Pepper cocktail, complete with a bacon-flavored cotton candy.

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Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero

Dinner was served at tables with centerpieces of red roses in various stages of unfolding. The first course was tiger prawn dumplings from Jason Cole (Willie G's Seafood) and featured a play on the traditional 1,000 year-old egg. Instead of being cooked in clay, Cole's version was a tiny quail egg steeped for a couple of days in squid ink and beet juice and was a yummy petite morsel. The chili oil in the broth added a nice kick. This would have made The Last Emperor very happy indeed.

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Sean Hochstein's Gandhi-inspired dish was dal-ish.

Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero

The second course was an unexpected and delicious surprise. I was expecting to be underwhelmed by a lentil dal dish, but instead I used the garlic chapati to scrape up every bit of the creamy dal and especially the candied eggplant. It had just the right amount of goat cheese to not be overwhelming. Sean Hochstein (Grotto Downtown)  took a basic vegetarian dish and created one of my favorite courses of the evening. While others were gushing over the pork belly and lamb chop, I was still thinking of the "Gandhi" course. The dish was coupled with a smooth, lightly fruity 2017 Chenin Blanc from Sula Vineyards, the largest producer of wine in India. It is a bottle worth searching for.

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Andrew Oliver delivers pork and beans for urban cowpokes.

Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero

Next was the seared pork belly from Andrew Oliver (McCormick and Schmick's). I know people go crazy for pork belly and the table where I was seated had plenty of admirers. While it was good, I would have liked a little more crispness on my piece. I was actually more taken with the smoked bean ragout and the pickled radish slaw, again two things that I would not expect to be so elevated. Oliver was given the film Unforgiven as his course and he said that this was his version of pork and beans. Clever. It was accompanied by a shot of Vic and Anthony's Barrel Proof Bourbon. Barrel and shot are also appropriate adjectives for this 114 proof signature bourbon as it shot right through me. Maybe I am a wimp, because my male companions on either side were very impressed with the whiskey. I would recommend staying away from open flames while enjoying this particular tipple.

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The intermezzo was unforgettable.

Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero

The intermezzo was a gorgeous smoked black cherry sorbet with a whiskey glaze caviar from La Griglia's Francisco Juarez. I found the flavors a little odd, but my companion really enjoyed it, so different strokes for different folks. Served on a translucent plate, it was an artistic masterpiece.

Michael O' Conner (Vic and Anthony's) was given the task of creating a dish for Lawrence of Arabia and he took inspiration from the prevalence of stuffed dishes in Arabic cuisine. The quail was filled inside with spiced ancient grains and set on daggous, a spicy tomato salad, and couscous. The stuffing was wonderful and again, I found myself enjoying the non-meat portions of the courses the most. Not because the meat wasn't cooked beautifully, but because the spices in the vegetables, legumes and grains were so wonderfully composed. I didn't understand, however, the addition of the couscous, considering the mixture of grains in the stuffing. I think the daggous would have stood out more without it. It was paired with the dry cider from Saint Arnold's which didn't impress any of my fellow diners.

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This ravioli should be named "The Truffleuffagus".

Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero

The veal sausage ravioli from Steve Haug (The Oceanaire) was up next. The Godfather was the inspiration for the dish, but I would have like to have seen something more indicative of Sicilian-American cuisine. The ravioli was filled with crumbled veal, but it didn't have much flavor. Perhaps that was to let the Australian Perigord truffles shine, which they did. The black truffle cream sauce emitted an earthy smell the minute it was laid before us and that was the highlight of the dish. The string quartet playing the theme from The Godfather was a fun touch.

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A Lecter lamb lollipop.

Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero

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Last up for the entree courses was the Lamb Lollipop, which had a rather macabre film inspiration, the ever-so-creepy The Silence of the Lambs. And of course, there were fava beans involved, along with Chianti wine. While the plating was a playful interpretation with its blood-like smear, it was a seriously good offering. The Chianti reduction, foie gras fondue and fava bean gremolata were so beautifully combined that I completely forgot that I am not a big fan of lamb, foie gras or fava beans. I obviously needed Carlos Andrade (Brenner's Steakhouse) to make me change my mind. It was served with a 2015 Banfi Chianti Classico Riserva. Hannibal would be proud.

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A dish that will make you say " I'm King of the World!"

Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero

No one at the table seemed to have room for dessert until an absolutely charming plate was set before us that definitely brought to mind the Edwardian-era elegance of a luxury ocean liner such as the Titanic. In keeping with the theme of the movie of the same name, Eunice Grassa, a Signature Group pastry chef, titled her dessert course, "Jack and Rose." A spoon dipped into the beautiful molded red rose revealed an airy chocolate cloud inside, with a hidden layer of jackfruit. While it was described as a coconut panna cotta, I must have missed something, because it seemed more like a whipped chocolate mousse. Maybe it was the shot of bourbon messing with my brain. The cantaloupe sorbet sitting next to it was such a refreshing pop of flavor, that I need it to help me get through the rest of this blistering Houston summer. The brown sugar meringue kiss was a perfect last treat to end a chef-driven and Oscar-worthy feast.

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The chefs receive well-deserved applause.

Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero

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Montrose Cheese and Wine, 1618 Westheimer, opened August 14. This is the first of the three concepts from Goodnight Hospitality that will open in the complex, next to Goodnight Charlie's.

The new build has a quaint European look to it, with its white brick and copper awnings, perfect for a wine and cheese venue and the upcoming, Rosie Cannonball, a European-style cafe that is expected to open at the end of August.  March is expected to open later this year.

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There's no signage, but Montrose Wine and Cheese is Open.

Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero

MW&C takes its inspiration from traditional salumerie. The design of the petite space (800 square feet) was done by Studio Robert McKinley using elements like terrazzo, plaster walls, oiled white oak shelving and a Griotte marble mix and custom metalwork. There's a spiral staircase connecting the wine cellar and the bar, which has ten seats for patrons who wish to enjoy their wine and cheese on the premises. There is also a shaded courtyard off the wine bar for lingering with a coffee or glass of wine.

The shop will feature Shannon McCracken as cheesemonger and general manager. The focus will be on small producers, with rotating cheese selections according to seasonality and availability. Ryan Cooper is the wine director and his selection of 125 wines will highlight organic, biodynamic and natural wines from all over the world. Cooper has put the focus on wines that "overdeliver" for the price point and there will be a strong selection of bottles for under $40.

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Shawn Gawle's pastries will be on offer.

Photo by Julie Soefer

Pastry director, Shawn Gawle will be keeping the pastry case well-stocked with an ever-changing selection, including the pastel de nata, or Portuguese egg tarts. Greenway Coffee has developed a proprietary blend of beans that will be used for the drip coffee and espresso drinks available at the shop.

There are retail  food and wine gifts from Biscuit Home, plus dried pastas from Italy, vinegars, oils and jams to take home and create an awesome wine and cheese tasting of your own. Or you could let the experts create a cheese and charcuterie board to enjoy at the bar or in the courtyard.

Oporto Cafe, 3833 Richmond closed, closed July 27. The Greenway Plaza cafe opened in 2006 and was the predecessor of Rick Di Virgilio's later restaurant, Oporto Fooding House and Wine at 125 W. Gray, which opened in 2015. Di Virgilio and his wife Chef Shiva Patel also owned and operated the Queen Vic Pub and Kitchen which closed in July 2018 after eight years. Oporto Fooding will remain open and Di Virgilio has already moved some staff from the Greenway Plaza location to the Midtown restaurant.

We reached out to Di Virgilio who assured us that the closing of the Greenway Plaza cafe in no way affects Oporto Fooding, which is where he is based and spends much of his time. He made the decision not to renew his lease with Greenway Co. but says he has another project in the works. Di Virgilio told the Houston Press:

" We have many great memories personally as well as with our Greenway neighbors and regulars. We had an amazing 13-year-run and am thankful to all the support over the years. That little wine cafe did great things!"

Loyal patrons will still have Oporto Fooding for Portuguese petiscos. Its Houston Restaurant Weeks menu is a good way to get a sample.

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Get your grub on, Katy!

Photo by Katie Littler/Light and Matter Photography

Grub Kitchen + Bar, 19143 Katy Freeway, opened August 6. This is the second location off Katy Freeway for the chain. There is a Grub Burger Bar in The Woodlands as well. The fast casual burger restaurant that was founded in 2012 in College Station by Texas A&M alumnus, Jimmy Loup. Grub is an acronym for Good people, Real food, Unique vibe, Big flavors. Or as we like to say, another word for something to eat.

There are plenty of different burgers from which to choose. Burger buffs can keep it classic with the Front Porch or branch out with the Texas Luau, a burger topped with pulled pork, grilled pineapple, jalapenos, teriyaki and barbecue sauces. There's a salmon option, turkey burger and Beyond Meat for vegetarians. For cluckers, there's chicken fried or grilled. The sweet potato fries are a must, but diners can get the Split Decision as a side, which includes half sweet potato waffle fries and half shoestring french fries. There are plenty vegetable offerings including brussels sprouts and entree salads.

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Keep it classic with the Front Porch burger at Grub.

Photo by Kelly Harrison/ Bit Plate Productions

Grub emphasizes its freshly baked buns, house-made sauces and dressings and 100 percent fresh ground beef.  It also strives to accommodate persons with allergies and food sensitivities.

Cocktails, beer and wine are available, as well as hand-crafted shakes. For the kiddos, there's an inexpensive kids menu, plus shake choices like the E.T. which, if your tot does not have nut allergies, is loaded with peanut butter flavor, including, of course, Reese's Pieces. For adults, there's the E.T. Drunk Dial, the same over-the -top peanut butter explosion with the addition of chocolate vodka.

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Akashi expands to Vintage Park.

Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero

Akashi Asian Bistro and Sushi Bar, 20326 State Highway 249, opened early August. The new Vintage Park location is the tenth in the Greater Houston area for the family-owned company. There are two more locations planned for Magnolia, Texas and Rosenberg Town Center.

The Asian-fusion restaurant has an extensive menu ranging from Chinese favorites like lo mein and fried rice to Japanese entrees like katsudon (chicken cutlet) or unagidon (barbecued river eel). There's a wide variety of maki, hand rolls, sashimi and nigiri. There's even a Lady Gaga roll. You know you're a star when you get a sushi roll named after you.

Diners can begin with starters such as the Pu Pu platter for two ($13.20) and typical apps like egg rolls, dumplings and edamame. We think the baked seafood avocado or the eggplant in spicy garlic sauce sounds tasty.

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The dramatic sushi bar at Akashi.

Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero

The interior is dramatic and guests who look upward can admire the stunning decor and fixtures overhead. Besides the large food menu, there's a variety of cocktails and a decently priced wine list. The beer offerings aren't as extensive, but you can get a Lucky Buddha for $4. There is also an array of different sake on offer, hot or cold, with a number of available flavors.

Pearls Oyster Bar N Grill, 9395 Richmond, opened August 8. The Asian fusion eatery offers oysters in a variety of preparations. There are raw, fried, grilled and dressed oysters available, with a flight of 15 if you want to sample them all.

There are fried and grilled seafood options, plus wings, chicken tenders and a kids menu. Starters include mussels, shrimp croutons, ceviche and avocado fries.

Find your muse at Warehouse 72.

Photo by Charlie Horse Photography

Warehouse 72, 7620 Katy Freeway, is hosting a grand opening weekend from August 23 through August 25. Friday night, from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m., the new restaurant will feature Madeline Edwards on the Steinway Spirio, a gorgeous, high-tech baby grand. On Saturday and Sunday,from noon to 3 p.m., guests can visit with the artist, Sebastein " Mr.D 1987" Boileau and his "muses" or models for the mural which adorn the brick walls. There will be giveaways such as T-shirts, tote bags and bandanas while supplies last. Charlie Perez and friends will provide the music. On Sunday, magician Michael Blanco will be on hand from noon to 3 p.m.

The restaurant opened August 1. Part of the Spaghetti Warehouse family, it is celebrating its grand opening at the Marq-E Entertainment Center on the 2nd anniversary of Hurricane Harvey which caused catastrophic flooding, resulting in the abandonment of the historic structure, located at 901 Commerce,  where Spaghetti Warehouse had operated since 1973. The new iteration is nothing like the old Spaghetti Warehouse, so don't go expecting mile-high lasagna. Instead, indulge in a more elevated Italian and Mediterranean menu from Chef Jaime Salazar.

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Runners, cyclists and golfers can cool off at Memorial Trail Ice House.

Rendering by Method Architecture

Memorial Trail Ice House, 6202 Washington, has reached its targeted goal of $200,000 within seven hours of launching its investment campaign on NextSeed. It also has nearly $1.5 million in investments from the Houston business community. Co-founder John Shaeffer and the Memorial team have chosen to site it in the historic Jeurgen family's general store building, which opened in 1932, eight years after Memorial Park was established. Shaeffer said in a press release, " We envision Memorial Trail Ice House becoming the social extension of Memorial Park. A community watering hole, located in an historic building with a story nearly as old as the park itself."

The team has also hired food and beverage consultants, Ladies of Libation LLC, to direct bar operations. There will be rotating food trucks for dining options.

Memorial Park receives over 4 million visitors each year. Now, they will have a place to quench their thirst. Or at least for those 21 and over.

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