Getting Rid of Insect Pests in Your Field or Garden With Radionics

Radionics has had a long and successful history of ridding fields, forests, and gardens of unwanted insect pests.  First, there was a company in the nineteen-fifties called UKACO, they got rid of a lot of insects that were eating farmer’s crops in the fields by putting an aerial photo of the field in the radionic instrument after they had painted insecticide all over it.  Their method worked and worked very well. In fact, the farmers didn’t have to pay UKACO if they weren’t satisfied with the results. UKACO had so much success that the chemical companies weren’t selling as much insecticide to the farmers. The Chemical companies conspired with the USDA ( United States Dept. Agriculture) to put UAKO out of business, which they finally succeeded in doing.

Radionics was also used in the forests of Eastern Canada, in the nineteen-seventies, during a very serious spruce budworm infestation, which killed hundreds of thousands of acres of trees. The end result was that using radionics to control the spruce budworm was much more successful and much environmentally friendly than the aerial spraying of pesticides, which had been practiced for years, but what that succeeded in doing was killing the birds that were natural predators of the budworm, leaving them to ravage the forests.

budworm larva

 

aerial spraying

T. Galen Hieronymus, one of the pioneers of radionics also experimented with killing insect pests using radionics. “He ( T. Galen Hieronymus) knew radionics could be a big help to farmers, especially after he used his radionic instrument to kill corn worms. He selected three ears of corn that the corn worms were busily eating. He isolated the ears of corn so that there was no way for the worms to escape, he then treated the worms for three days. After three days all but one was mush, after another day of treatment that one was mush also.

Today radionics is still used to control insect pests in fields and gardens, but not so much with chemical pesticides as was done by UKACO, but by making the crops in the field healthier and stronger, which makes them more resistant to attack by insects, this is normally done by using organic farming methods. This follows a theory that the insects that eat crops are nature’s garbage collectors, and will avoid a healthy plant, but feed on a weak, unhealthy one. It is also said that today with the use of chemical fertilizers in depleted soils, that much of what is grown is weak and unhealthy therefore prime food for insects.

Ok, so you have a  large field or maybe a small garden and you notice insects eating what you are trying to grow, and you want to use radionics to get rid of the insects…what do you do?

The first thing to do is to get a good photo of the field or garden. Traditionally Polaroid photos have been used because they contain an emulsion in the film, that is very good at capturing and holding the energy of the field, or anything else you take a photo of. Polaroid no longer makes cameras, but another company FUJI, makes a camera and film that is very similar in many ways to the old Polaroids, you can buy these on Amazon.com for about  $50-$60.

Some people say that a photo taken with a good quality digital camera, and printed out on paper works almost as well as a radionic witness as a Polaroid or Fuji Instax photo. Some people have even used photos from Google Earth as radionic witnesses, which they have printed. I guess I’m old fashioned, I prefer to use the tried and true method of using photos I take with an Instax camera.

Another question that arises when taking photos, especially of a field. Do you take the photo with the sun at your back, or facing the sun? There are two schools of thought on this matter.

According to radionic expert George L. Kuepper  who has spent many years using radionics in agriculture, wrote about taking photos of fields for use in radionics with the sun in front of you or at your back in his excellent book ” Plants, Soils, Earth Energy, and Radionics”  

I will paraphrase Mr Kuepper, as the instructions that he gives in his book are quite lengthy. He says that if you want to isolate a certain area such as a field you take the photo with the sun at your back. For example, if you wanted to get a photo of your field and not your neighbour’s fields you would shoot the picture with the sun at your back. On the other hand, Mr. Kuepper states: “There are circumstances where one wishes to analyze and balance non-isolated, extensive crop fields these cannot be captured in a few photos. For example a large wheat field spread over undulating hills would have large portions screened from the photographer’s view, a wind break would also screen part of the view to get around this , practitioners violate a basic rule of good photography and take photos WITH THE SUN FACING THE LENS, this produces a poor photographic image but reinforces the intent of capturing a wider area”

Mr. Kuepper also advises that when fields of crops are being photographed for radionic work, it a good idea not to have people, pets or livestock in the field at the time the photo is being taken.

field

Now that you have a photo of the field, it’s time to go get some of the insects that you want to get rid of. Get at least 4 or 5 of the same kind of insect from different locations in the field or garden. Put them in a test tube or glass bottle that will fit in your witness well of your radionic instrument.

japanesebeetle01

Now that you have a photo of the field, and a test tube with a few of the insects, you want to cold-scan for the rate of these insects, everything has a rate and we are going to find out the rate for these insects.  Keep notes on everything you do in this process, this is important. First cold-scan the left-hand dial, then the right-hand dial. I forgot to mention this earlier the insects must be alive, dead ones are of no use. 

Once you have cold-scanned and found a rate for the insects, find out the intensity of that rate you have just cold-scanned using your intensity dial. Now check the insects General Vitality. If you have a two-bank instrument put 9-49 on the second bank if you have a one bank instrument put 9-49 on the bank that you have the rate for the insects on, but write down the rate first. You should be writing down all of these rates and intensities.

The next step is very important. Check the General Vitality of the insects, it should be the same as the intensity you got when you checked the intensity of the rate for the insects, ( plus or minus 10) if the numbers are not the same, you have to fine-tune the rate for the intensity of the insects, not the General Vitality rate, but the rate you checked first. Fine-tuning is accomplished by moving the left-hand dial, then the right hand-dial very slightly until the intensity of the rate of the insects equals the G.V  of the insects.

Most radionic instrument dials are divided into eighths or tenths, for example between the number 10 and the number 15 there will be eight or ten small marks, when fine-tuning only the needle from one of those marks to the other at a time and check your intensity, when the intensity equals General Vitality, you have your rates fine-tuned.

mattioda instrument

The next step is to find out the infestation level of the insects in your field. To do this take the test tube with the insects out of the well and put the photo of the field in the well. With the first rate you cold-scanned, the rate of the insects on the bank of the instrument. Turn your intensity dial to find the intensity of infestation. You can re-check this intensity every few days, and if you did everything right, the infestation should steadily decrease.

The next step is to reduce the General Vitality of the insects. Take the photo out of the well, and put the test tube of insects back in.  To lower the insect’s vitality reading, put the General Vitality reading of the insects on the bank of your instrument. How will you lower the insects G.V., with reagents?  What is a reagent? A reagent can be anything that will, in this case, lower the G.V of the insects.

Some of the more common things that have been used as reagents are; tobacco, oregano, cinnamon, alcohol, crushed walnut hulls, red pepper, cedar chips, cedar oil, marigold dried blossoms, marigold pure extract, paint thinner, turpentine, nicotine sulfate. Here is a list of some other things that can be used as reagents.

Some people may use toxic substances in their radionic instruments, such as pesticides, poisons, etc. They will say it’s OK, as long as the poisons are in a tightly capped bottle or test tube, but I do not like broadcasting poisons through my radionic instruments. If you broadcast poisons to your field, everything in the field gets hit with it, animal, birds, people.  but it’s your instrument and your field you can do what you want.

Ideally, you want to get the insects General Vitality down to zero.  I like this part because it lets you experiment with different reagents to see what lowers the G.V the most. There is nothing wrong with using more than one reagent at a time, sometimes you have to use 4 or 5 different ones to lower the insects G.V  significantly. Keep trying different reagents until the insects G.V. drops to zero, or as close to zero as you can get. The closer you can get to zero the more success you will have in ridding the field of the insects. If you can’t get it to zero, at least try to get it below 50.

You’re almost ready to broadcast to the field, but there are a couple more things to do.  Take the insects out of the well and put the photo back in with the reagents that you have selected, and with the rate of the insects on the bank of your instrument, check and see how much the rate of infestation has lowered. It should now be very low, Ideally at zero.

Take the photo out again, put the insects back in.  Now the last step REVERSE THE INSECTS RATE.  Take the rate you cold scanned of the insects ( for example we’ll say it was (36-87). 36 on the left dial and 87 on the right dial). Reverse them. Put 87 on the left dial and 36 on the right dial. like this (87-36).

Make sure the photo, the insects, and the reagents are in the well.

Check appropriateness (100-0) If you get a YES. If you get a NO, something is wrong you shouldn’t broadcast unless you re-check everything and find out what is wrong, and get a YES.  This is only a suggestion, it’s your machine, and your field, do as you like.

Check the time of broadcast. Use your intensity dial for this. If you get a 10, that’s 10 hours, if a 30 it’s 30 hours and so on.” Your radionic instrument should be grounded.  “BROADCAST” This will probably take a few days of broadcasting.

As mentioned above check infestation intensity periodically.  It is also a good idea if before you begin to broadcast that you walk through the field to get an idea how bad the infestation is. Then after a couple of days of broadcasting take another walk in the field to see if there are fewer insects. If after a couple of days, you don’t notice very much of a decrease in the insects. Go out get a few more live insects, and repeat the process from the start. For some reason or other sometimes this process needs to be repeated twice.

Sample Notes

notes

 

You can also or in addition to the above procedures, go to your local zoo and get some hay or staw from the lion’s cage. take a small bit of this straw with the urine on it, put it in a test tube, and broadcast to any place you are having a rodent problem. I haven’t tried this , but I am told by people that have that it works very well. I would imagine you could use tiger urine soaked staw, if the local zoo didn’t have lions.

One thought on “Getting Rid of Insect Pests in Your Field or Garden With Radionics

  1. Then God said: “Let us make man in our image, according to our likeness, and let them have in subjection the fish of the sea and the flying creatures of the heavens and the domestic animals and all the earth and every creeping animal that is moving on the earth.

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