(cache)Makeup-FX.com Special Makeup Effects and Wigs by Lars Carlsson, Gothenburg, Sweden

Two detail pictures of the sculpt before mold ing.
Before starting the mold ing I build a water clay wall along the highest points of the head.	Make it nice and smooth with a 90 degree angle towards the head.
Press round indentions in the clay wall to make keys for the mold halves.	Spray the water clay wall with some acrylic spray to make it water resistant.
When that is dry give the whole things a good coat of dulling spray. This breaks down the surface tension and the plaster will not bead up on it later. Great stuff! Don't miss this step!	Lay the head down to make the mold ing easier. Remember to put something soft under it not to damage your sculpt.
What can I say about this. Dental plaster, yeah, Moldano it's called. Not the best but affordable.	A lot of people will say that it is forbidden to use an electric whisk to mix plaster. To hell with that! I have been doing it for 20 years now and have never had any problems because of it. If you want to, do it! Just let the plaster soak into the water first and then whisk it down. If you don't let it soak you will get a bad plaster
Start brushing the plaster on the front using a soft brush. Why a soft brush? Because clay is soft and can be messed up with a hard brush. Logic. I love it!	Do 2 or 3 layers of plaster. You should now have about 1-2 cm of plaster on there.
Now it is time to reinforce the mold with burlap. Dip it in plaster and then put it on your mold .	Build up so you have at least 2.5 cm /1" thickness everywhere.
A beautiful mold is a good mold . So don't stop working on it until it looks great!	Turnthe mold around and do the same procedure on the back half. Add some release agent on the plaster edges so the two parts won't stick together. After this it's getting scary. Take it apart and hopefully will be ok.
This can be incredibly hard work.	I think I spent more than 45 minutes to get it out of the mold . But the mold was more or less perfect!
You will always have leftover clay in the mold . Just wash it out with soapy hot water.	This takes a while too.
Look, finished mold s... Nice.	Now you can soap the mold s so the silicone will come out easily. Most no perfume soaps will do fine.
Brush it in with a brush and after a few minutes you can just sponge it over so you won't have any lakes of soap.	Put the mold s together and let them dry overnight. Time to sleep!
The stuff we will be using for the head is Platsil 10 from Polytek. To make it easier to handle I always put it into sports bottles as you see here. Platsil consists of three components. The A and the B is the silicone and should always be mixed 50/50. The Deadner is a softener and can be used up to 200%.	Let's start with the silicone head. Mix up a batch of Platsil 10 A+B I think I did a 50 g + 50 g mix. Using a non-latex sponge apply a very thin layer of the inside of your mold s. Let it dry fully. This will create a barrier which will allow you to use mixes with deadner in it afterwards. Mixes with deadner will always stay sticky and this layer prevents that.
Once the barrier is dry we can mix some colored Platsil and start to create a skin. To color the silicone I normally use Kryolan greasepaint and flocking. Just mash it up and mix it into the B component before you start. For this project I mixed "Alabaster" and red flocking into about 1 kilo of B. this was enough for the whole project.	To make sure I build up an even layer of silicone I mix in a bit of Cabosil thickener. With this stuff in it I can build the silicone as I wish.
Look how nice and gooey it is.	So here you go, the first layer of skin colored silicone is in the mold .
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