Dear Beauty Lovers: There Is A Difference between Pale Foundation Problems and Dark Foundation Problems
I am 30 years old. The first time that I found a foundation shade that closely matched my skin colour was two years ago. This is partially because, when you live in Australia and a Revlon foundation costs $28 on sale, high end make-up with its more extensive shade range is often inaccessibly and prohibitively expensive.
But that isn’t the whole problem. A big reason I’ve struggled so much to find a reasonably priced, easily obtainable and full coverage foundation is because I am not white, and mainstream makeup is designed for white people.
I know that I’m lucky. I’m as fair skinned as a tanned white person, so I’ve been able to find many shades that were almost there, but not quite right. That’s not true for many of my minority peers though, who are often unable to find shades in anything even close to their skin tone. And don’t even get me started on
BB creams
or concealers.
Most drugstore brands carry one or two shades of BB creams and concealers and you can bet anything that none of them will be suitable for somebody with dark skin. One shade called “Deep” does not capture an entire race, nay races, of people.
Point me in the direction of “deep” please.
And you know what? I know that I’m not alone in this. I know that even people of colour aren’t alone in this. I know it can be hard for most people to find a perfect shade match in the drugstore. Drugstore foundations very rarely cater to very pale skin either. But according to many commenters on beauty blogs, this is exactly the same problem as a lack of shades for dark people.
This is a big pet peeve of mine. Often, when a mainstream beauty blog runs a piece on good foundations for dark skin, or on the difficulties people of colour face in finding shade matches, the comments are overtaken by white people complaining about finding foundation for their whiter than white skin.
It’s always so disappointing to read a really great article about the problems faced by people of colour in simply seeking mainstream representation of the way we look, and then head to the comments to be faced with commenters complaining that people of colour don’t have the “exclusive right to colour match frustrations.”
Match Perfection – I believe this brand has two variations of “porcelain”
While it’s true that colour match foundations affect everybody, the implications of this are markedly different for pale and dark-skinned people.
It’s important to remember the context. Not being able to find your shade in foundation is a one-off problem for a white person. For a person of colour, it’s just another way we are reminded that the world is not designed for us. It’s another piece in the puzzle of systemic racism. When I see a brand that has darker shades, or a broad range for yellow-based complexions, I feel gratitude. I feel like they’ve done me a favour, because we’re made to feel that acknowledging our existence is doing us a favour.
It sucks that you can’t find makeup in your specific skin tone, it really does, no sarcasm. But I can guarantee you that in most mainstream lines you can find makeup designed for your race. A drugstore foundation range will usually read something like Ivory, Porcelain, Buff, Beige, Medium Beige, Honey and Tan. Tan. That’s it. For all of us. Your problem is specific to you, ours is generalized to our entire race.
Take your pick of these three overpriced shades.
Derailing is such a buzz word in social justice type arenas, but that’s exactly what this is. We want to have a conversation about this problem. One conversation with our peers where we can empathise and share advice. Making this conversation about pale problems is completely derailing, and long comment threads about brands that provide the whitest of white foundations belong somewhere else.
I see it as part of this post-modern way that we communicate these days, where the only thing we know is our own experience and the only way we empathize is by sharing our own experiences. But that doesn’t have to be true, because sharing white experiences in conversations about race often just ends up shutting up the brown people.
There is nothing wrong with listening, with simply saying "I’m sorry" or "I can’t believe this" or "I saw this brand that looks like it might have a good range of darker skin tones, why don’t you check it out?" Or, you know, not participating in this one discussion. There’ll be others for you. I promise.
Shopping for bases is frustrating for all of us. It’s the kind of thing that nobody really wants to do, because in a perfect world we’d all have flawless skin that wouldn’t need any kind of correcting. When you layer that with the frustrations faced in finding shade matches, it isn’t fun. I’ve resigned myself to having to fork out significant amounts of cash to find a good foundation shade, and I’m not sure I’ve even found a perfect one yet. We feel your pain, pale white people of the world.
But, don’t be the person who makes all our conversations about your pale problems. Recognize that your “problem” also comes with a massive amount of privilege that most people of colour looking for foundations don’t have. Pale skin might come with makeup complexities, but it doesn’t come with the structural discrimination and disadvantage that brown skin often does. Next time, keep that in mind that before you dive in and tell us about good foundations for
NC -15s.
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nerdybynature • 11 hours ago This conversation as you're describing it plays out in a million different ways on all kinds of topics - it's basically the definition of white privilege. "This problem that effects me as an individual is exactly like this problem that systemically marginalizes or erases a large group of people, how dare you say it's not?" Ugh.I can't imagine how frustrating it must be to have to keep having that conversation. Kudos for breaking down the issue in such a calm, straightforward way. -
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stella • 11 hours ago As a pale white girl, I think I'm fully in my rights to say that there are few things more annoying than hearing pale white girls talk about how OMG HARD it is to be pale-
HzlStone > stella • 11 hours ago With you there. As a kid I got bullied and teased for my hair colour (ginger as it was then), and as an adult I often find it hard to get foundation to match my so-translucent-you-can see-veins-pale skin. And This Is *Not* The Same as the systematic issues faced by people of colour. Not even nearly. Nothing like it.-
stella > HzlStone • 10 hours ago Yup. And even beyond the race stuff, I don't think life is too hard for the pale girls nowadays. Yeah, I got called "albino" etc. in high school, but it seems like pale is in for white girls right now. I think tanning has become unfashionable among the young & hip set, in response to the fake bake madness of the previous decade
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disqus_1eDtjyJnMH > stella • 4 hours ago The only complaint I have about being pale is the increased risk of skin cancer, but I think that's probably an okay thing to be worried about. -
Kayla Rose > stella • 3 hours ago Right on. I'm also a pale white girl, and I can tell you the extent of my "hardship" being pale: I was picked on a bit as a kid for it (Turtle skin was a unique nickname, due to my veins being visible under my skin and making a kind of turtle shell pattern), and sometimes I get sunburnt in summer. That is literally it. It is not hard being pale, at all.
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Hellsbells • 11 hours ago Slightly off topic, but can anyone tell me why cosmetics are so expensive in Australia? Is it taxation? Is everything there crazy expensive, or just face goop?Here in the ole US of A, when things originate in other countries they still don't mark them up to that extent. (Rimmel and Max Factor when it was still sold here come to mind.) They might cost more here than they do elsewhere(see: Bioderma) but the markup isn't that extreme.-
Natalie > Hellsbells • 11 hours ago I think its partly taxation and partly the sheer cost of shipping stuff to that region (I'm sure they have the same issues in NZ). Illamasqua did a campaign about it a year or so ago, the info is probably still on their website.-
toodlespoodles > Natalie • 9 hours ago But most stuff is made in SE or E Asia, which is closer to Aus/NZ than US so traveling costs can't really explain it. I'll check out the Illamsqua campaign you mentioned. Might it be a difference in tariff?Edit: I found the campaign. It does look like Aus is more expensive than even EU. This was a quote from a rep. for Aus:"Around 70 per cent of the cosmetics and toiletries sold in Australia are imported and retailers point to taxes and import duties, transport costs, higher wages and more expensive rent to explain the price difference."Have to admit, I'd rather pick higher wages and better conditions than cosmetic prices.-
theseawasangry > toodlespoodles • 9 hours ago Its because when the US orders a shipment of a product it orders in HUGE quantities, because it has the market for it. They get a discount for the bulk purchase and only have to ship the product once. In NZ (and I assume Australia) we can only buy a small amount of product at a time as there simply is not enough people to purchase it. This means we don't get the bulk discount and often have to rent an entire shipping container that will only be a quarter full. We just don't have the market to support lots of products. Its the same reason for why shoes don't come in half sizes here (let alone multiple widths) and talks and petits are non-existant (even though we have tall and short people).-
caity > theseawasangry • 8 hours ago Off topic a bit, but do you remember when they stopped half sizes here? Because growing up I used to be able to get them from like Hannahs and a few other stores (not all, mind you) and now it's all insoles forever.-
theseawasangry > caity • 8 hours ago I'm 19 and I don't remember us ever having half sizes. I'm an 8.5 and have only once owned a pair of shoes that actually fit me (can't afford to buy from overseas) so I get very ranty about our lack of half sizes!-
caity > theseawasangry • 7 hours ago Woah ok I'm only 25 so must've been a lot longer ago than I remember! I always end up with size 8 and an insole, which only does so much.
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Kayla Rose > caity • 3 hours ago Heads up for all the half size ladies: Tony Bianco runs half sizes, and have free shipping on orders over $50 to NZ. Catch their sales/clearances, they're well worth it, and well made and comfy.
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Steph > toodlespoodles • 6 hours ago Higher costs really cancels out higher wages quickly.
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toodlespoodles > Hellsbells • 9 hours ago I think it's more an issue of stuff in US being cheap rather than stuff being expensive in other places. The way international trade is set up has a lot to do with it. -
PoorWhore > Hellsbells • 8 hours ago The average full time wage here is 69K, so much higher than what I imagine it to be in say, the USA. The cost of living here is astronomical, though - everything is much more expensive than it is in the States. The cheapest pack of ciggies is $16, the average home price is Sydney is $633,200 etc. etc. I don't mind so much, we have pretty good living standards here.-
Lacey > PoorWhore • 5 hours ago $16 for cigarettes?! Holy hell. I don't smoke, but I know cigarettes in Virginia (basically the home of the tobacco industry) are crazy cheap - like $4 for a pack. People bitch about prices in New York - $9/pack. How the hell do people from Australia afford to smoke at all?! -
Lesley Canterbury > PoorWhore • 3 hours ago oh my! I don't smoke either but 16? that crazy lol-
PoorWhore > Lesley Canterbury • 3 hours ago First world problem ;) I'm trying to quit. Just shelled out over $100 on ecigs and I'm anxiously awaiting their delivery.-
Natalie Ryan > PoorWhore • 2 hours ago Good Luck! Hope it goes well for you! You can do it!
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Natalie Ryan > PoorWhore • 2 hours ago Are you calculating for Australian to US currency? Wow! That's expensive!-
PoorWhore > Natalie Ryan • 2 hours ago Good point. Those figures are AUD but the Aussie dollar buys 93 US cents so it's not too different :)-
Natalie Ryan > PoorWhore • an hour ago Yeah, even with the conversions, it's still a little less than double for what we pay in the US -- And I live in California! I guess the average wage makes up for it, huh?
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KatsDiscoBall > Hellsbells • 8 hours ago Think it's time for some homegrown Aussie companies to start making foundation! (although shipping the raw materials could be prohibitively expensive too)-
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Kayla Rose > KatsDiscoBall • 3 hours ago Australis is pretty decent -- I'm all over their liquid eyeliner like butter on toast, and they're cruelty free.
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Anna Berry > Hellsbells • 7 hours ago Historically (and I'm talking the 1980s here) the Australian dollar was nowhere near the US dollar and importers had to pay the exchange rate and import duties as well. When big names like Estee Lauder became established in Aus. Dept stores, the 'right' to sell these brands was done so under license. This meant that the licence holder for any brand could charge whatever they wanted without regard to the US comparative cost. The other issue was isolation, so sellers basically re-priced whatever and however they wanted. Now, license to sell is still under contract but the marker is widening up thanks to online sales and market direct sales. Some brands no longer hold 'exclusivity rights' in Australia. A recent example of this is when Chemist Warehouse started selling Revlon lipsticks at $7.45 which was remarkably low, they were selling for $24.95 at Priceline for the same product. This is happening more and more. Basically, its a rort. Even when the AU dollar overtook the US dollar, the prices held. It's a marketplace monopoly.
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originalrjc • 11 hours ago THANK YOU. I'm a light skinned POC but it always irks me when a really good article on darker foundation colours has comments that just get taken over by really pale folks. -
LC • 11 hours ago Thanks for this. This is exactly how I felt when the articles about Nubian Skin came out and were promptly hijacked by white women complaining that "nude" doesn't match their skin either. It's not that it isn't annoying that pale women have trouble finding foundation or in the case of Nubian Skin articles, that the bra doesn't match their skin completely. It's that this is more than a mere annoyance. It's exclusion. It's that women of color aren't even being acknowledged as real. -
realtalk • 11 hours ago I have dark skin that darkens rapidly even with sunscreen. I don't wear foundation but if I did I'd need at least four shades to keep up -
shes_got_a_way • 11 hours ago Stupid question - how has capitalism not solved this problem yet? I would think that some company would try and cater to darker skinned consumers based on sheer greed if not based on any feel-good stuff.I mean, I guess right now companies are still getting money from people of color based on them just reluctantly using the not quite right products because they have no other options? But I feel like if someone came up with a line that was so much better than the crappy stuff that exists, everyone would buy it and that company would make so much money.-
Jax44 > shes_got_a_way • 10 hours ago That is a really good question especially considering the amount of money Black women spend annually on beauty products! You would think the companies would want our money-
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Jax44 > Anna Berry • 7 hours ago I don't know the precise figures but as a group AA women have major spending power. Look at the rise in natural hair care products as a result of embracing our hair. Asian and some white owned beauty companies profit in a major way from money spent on hair!-
Anna Berry > Jax44 • 6 hours ago That's a good point, but this article is being specific about foundation. And I don't know whether its true that WOC wear as much makeup (specifically foundation) as women who are represented by the shade availability in the marketplace do. It's a supply and demand issue. This is why pale women ALSO cannot find a match - because they don't represent enough profit margin for the major brands. That's not a 'race' bias or issue, that's a profit bias.
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abby536 > shes_got_a_way • 8 hours ago I have always assumed that the lack of supply decreases demand over time. If you grow up never wearing base because it's never the right color then you're not going to look for it in Target at 35.So I'll bet research shows that dark skinned ladies don't wear a lot of foundation.That's one of the tricks of capitalism. MOST of the things I buy are not intrinsically necessary to my life. The supply creates the need and thus the demand. -
Anna Berry > shes_got_a_way • 6 hours ago Perhaps it's because there is not enough demand ? -
DryHeat > shes_got_a_way • 6 hours ago I know of at least one cosmetics line that is specifically for darker skinned women. It's called Black Radiance. I've only ever seen it in Atlanta. It's not luxury, and I've only ever tried the lipstick, but it was super pigmented and smooth.
Less than 15% of the US population is black, that's not a huge target market. The big names are trying to reach as many people as possible through as few products as possible. That is capitalism. It does seem like an opportunity for a new company to get their foot in the door though. -
Lacey > shes_got_a_way • 5 hours ago This same questions applies to plus sized clothing. It just doesn't fucking make sense to me. -
LeeB > shes_got_a_way • an hour ago That's what i always wondered about german drugstore brands. Granted, there aren't as many very dark woc living here, but brown? Plenty. Those brands are not catering to a huge market by offering only 4 (4!!!!) Shades of foundation. How do they voluntarily miss out on all that money?
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ljbren • 11 hours ago I'm sorry for the sidebar, but $25 for CoverGirl? They suck anyway, but I'll be damned if I'd ever pay even close to that for their shitty makeup. -
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OhHoneyNo > Lilubird • 9 hours ago Got to love the 'Australia Tax'. That's partly why the 'Self Care for Poor People' articles crack me up sometimes. Revlon lip colours? yeahnah. -
Carly McCall > Lilubird • 6 hours ago My former favourite Revlon foundation was $48 in New Zealand. I can barely get a Maybelline mascara for $28. Garnier BB cream is around $18. Cry for me, too!-
SocialPiranha > Carly McCall • 5 hours ago Ok, now I understand why my friend from NZ went INSANE shopping when she visited me. -
Kayla Rose > Carly McCall • 3 hours ago If you live near a Kmart in NZ, hit it up. I go with e.l.f for most "basic" makeup stuff now, and picked up a mascara for $5. Compared to usual NZ prices, that shit is near criminal. Fairly decent mascara too.
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Maritza Courneya > Lilubird • 6 hours ago well I live in Canada and Revlon true match goes in my local drugstore for $19.99 + 14% tax :(-
Lesley Canterbury > Maritza Courneya • 3 hours ago even in Canada? this is blowing my mind... I wonder why its so much more and you guys are just above us?
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