Archive for the Mod Projects Category

Retro Duo NES Audio Correction Tutorial

Posted in Mod Projects, NES, Retro Gaming, Tutorials on July 19, 2011 by satoshimatrix

Thinking of buying a Retro Duo or already own one? Hate the off-pitch sound the system produces when playing NES cartridges? You’re in luck – the audio can be fixed to sound no different than the real hardware.

For this tutorial you will need the following

  • Clean work space
  • Star screwdriver
  • Cup to place screws in
  • Retro Duo system
  • Small amount of solder
  • Solderiong Iron
  • 1x 2.2Kohm resistor
  • 1x  0.1uf ceramic capacitor (104)

As always, I take no responsibility for any adverse consiquences of preforming this mod. I am not resonsible if you destroy your system, burn your house down, or begin to enjoy Michael Bay movies. You have been warned.

1. Flip over your Retro Duo and remove the four star screws in the four corners. If you have never disassembled your Retro Duo before they may be a little stubborn, so keep at it.

2. Remove the screws and store in your bowl. All of the Retro Duo’s screws are identical in size and shape, so don’t worry about mixing them up.

3. Flip the console so it is facing up once again. Gently lift and remove her top. [thank you Nintentoaster tutorial] There is a small LED board that indicates when in 8-bit or 16-bit modes. You can unscrew this if you wish, but it is not vital.

4. Ignore the large SNES board entirely unless you feel the need to unscrew it to work on a completely flat area. Your focus should be on the small NES daughterboard on the back, secured by two screws at either end of the cartridge slot. Remove them and gently lift up on the board so it is virtual. As mentioned, you can solder in this position, but if you feel uneasy completely unscrew the board and lay it down flat.

5. It’s time for soldering. Plug in your soldering iron to allow it a few minutes to heat up. Gather your solder and the two components you will be adding.

You’ll need a common 0.1uf ceramic capacitor and a 2.2Kohm resistor. The resistor has the striping red/red/red and the ceramic capacitor can easily be identified by its “104” marking.

Both components can be found on the cheap from any electronics supplier, but I personally recommend scavenging parts from old electronics you might have lying around. Both of these parts are commonly found on old VCRs and other household electronics. Simply desolder the old components and reuse. I wholeheartedly recommend every hobbyist have at least one scarp VCR for parts. Their massive motherboards are goldmines for these kinds of components.

 

6. It’s time to solder. I unfortunately made this tutorial long after preforming the mod, so I only have after images to show. Solder the resistor and the capacitor as shown. Don’t worry about polarity – resistors do not carry polarity and it does not matter which way you place ceramic capacitors as these types of capacitors have no polarity either. It is for this reason you shouldn’t use an electrolytic capacitor for this application.

Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge

7. Once the components are in place and secure, place the board(s) back in their positions and screw them down. If you unscrewed the LED board, take care not to overscrew it – you can actually puncture the top of the casing doing this.

8. Put her top back on and rescrew the four corners. Test it out and you should be in business!

That’s it folks. Check out my Retro Duo videos to see just how good the audio can sound once you preform this simple mod!

Mayflash Wii to NES fix tutorial

Posted in Mod Projects, NES, Tutorials on April 25, 2010 by satoshimatrix

This is a continuation to my Mayflash NES/SNES to Wii Adapter article. Please read that first.

This tutorial will instruct you in how to build yourself a Mayflash NES/SNES-to-Wiimote controller adapter with a full fledged standard 7-pin NES connector instead of the provided DB-9 pin connector.

 

Note that since the writing of this tutorial, Mayflash has begun to include DB-9 to NES 7-pin adapters along with their controllers. Still, if you don’t want to bother with the adapter, this is still a good read.

By default, you can only use SNES controllers and DB-9 Famiclone controllers.

FAQ

Q: Huh? NES 7-pin? DB-9? I’m confused.

A: In the 1980s, many videogame systems including the Atari 2600, Commodore 64 and even Sega Genesis used a standard nine pin controller port called a DB-9. This meant that many controllers were interchangeable with each other, allowing gamers to use Genesis controllers to play Atari games.  The NES used its own connector. This mod involves removing the DB9 connector and replacing it with an NES 7pin connector.

Q: That sounds hard! What’s so special about the Mayflash adapter anyway? Why not just use Retrozone’s Retroports?

A: The Retroports that Retrozone sell are marketed as NES & SNES to Wii adapters, but they are in reality only NES & SNES to Gamecube adapters. This means that they work on all Gamecube games that support digital control, but on the Wii they only work with games that alllow the use of Gamecube controllers. Increasingly, more games are being released on the Wii that support the Wiimote on its side and Classic Controller only, such as Megaman 9 and Megaman 10. Also, since the Mayflash adapter plugs into the Wiimote and not the Wii itself, it sort of makes the NES/SNES controllers wired-wireless, preventing trip hazards.


Q: What do I need to do this project, and where can I find each item?

A: the obvious:
Wii
Wiimote

the rest:

Mayflash NES/SNES to Wii adapter – various online stores, ebay
NES and SNES controller – check your local used game stores. ebay has them, but be careful of knock-offs. Always look for Nintendo’s logo. The design patients for the controllers have expired, but knock-offs will never have Nintendo written on them.

Salvaged female NES 7pin controller plug

The ideal place to find one is if you have or know someone who has a dead/unwanted NES. Alternatively, check ebay for the part itself that someone has already removed or buy an NES for parts. Getting it out of the system is real easy – Simply remove the screws holding the case together, remove the RF shield and simply unplug one of the controller ports. Finally unscrew both screws on the black plastic piece that keeps the 7pin connectors in place.

small star screwdriver – your garage/junk drawer/hardware store.
soldering iron and solder – hardware store.
desoldering pump/braid – hardware store.
scissors - your kitchen/department store
glue - may not be needed, depending on your skill.
a sharp work knife – your kitchen/craft store.
small pair of pliers – garage/hardware store.

Okay! With that out of the way, let’s get going!

*Desclaimer: Following this tutorial should allow you to achieve desirable results, but that being said I take no responsibility for following my advice here. By continuing to read this you take full responsibility of damaging your hardware, burning or cutting yourself. Don’t be a jackass and you should be fine.

1. Take your Mayflash NES/SNES to Wii adapter apart by removing the four screws on the back. Set aside the top part of the shell along with the four small screws and the turbo fire button in a safe place, preferably in a bowl so you don’t lose anything.

2. Unhook the cord and remove the PCB from the bottom tray. Place bottom tray in bowl with the other side and the screws.

Top side of the Mayflash PCB

3. Carefully examine the PCB. You’ll notice that the Famiclone DB-9 plug is connected to the PCB using all nine pins, even though Famicom/NES controllers only use five pins. On the real hardware, the two extra pins to make of the 7pin connector were only used by specialty controllers such as the Zapper or PowerGlove. You will notice a pattern that looks like this:
**________**
1 \ o o o o o / 5
**\ o o o o /**
*6 `~~~~~’ 9*

Note that this diagram shows the correct pins that face away from the PCB. In other words, the pins that are normally visible and plug into DB-9 controllers.

4. Use a soldering iron and soldering pump/braid to heat and remove the solder that holds the DB- 9 pin plug. This is a slow process, be patient: Don’t try to forcefully remove the pins as that will most likely result in damaging the entire PCB.

Desolder the nine solder points on the left.

5. Once you have the old DB-9 pin adapter removed, either discard or keep for a future project. Either way, you’re done with the stock DB-9 pin connector for now.

6. Prepare your salvaged NES 7pin adapter. If you’re using one taken from an old NES, you can easily finish this project just by soldering the correctly colored wires. Wires may be different for third party NES female plugs, I’m not sure.

NES 7-pin connector pin numbers, the wire color and the job each does:

1 Brown Ground
2 White  5 Volts
3 Red     Clock
4 Purple Not Used on standard controllers.
5 Orange Latch/Strobe
6 Blue    Not Used on standard controllers.
7 Yellow Data

You will need only the brown, white, red, orange and yellow wires. clip the blue and purple right out of the way so you don’t get confused by them. In case you’re wondering, they’re for specialty controllers like the Zapper.

7. Back where the DB-9 pin adapter was, remove any excess solder and ensure you can place wires in each small hole. Here is the DB-9 standard layout for most Famiclone DB-9 connectors, including the Mayflash:

1 N/A
2 DATA
3 LATCH/STROBE
4 CLOCK
5 N/A
6 +5V
7 N/A
8 GND
9 N/A

Reading the pins of a DB-9 is simple. The top row is 1-5 and the bottom is 6-9.

DB-9 pins you need to solder to are in represented by “x”. “o” shows pins that you can leave disconnected.

**________**
1 \  oxxxo  / 5
**\  xoxo /**
*6 `~~~~~’ 9*

Just to double check specifically, solder the NES wires to these places:

2 Yellow
3 Orange
4 Red
6 White
8 Brown

Here is a stripped SNES controller showing the location of the five needed pins. Note that the color of two wires on the SNES are reversed. Refer to what I wrote above.

8. Simply solder away. Take your time. Remember to solder on the underside only.

9. Before reassembly, try it out. Your oldschool NES controllers should now work perfectly on Wii games that support Classic Controllers.

10. Depending on where you want to place the NES 7pin connector, use your knife to cut away plastic in the way and possibly glue it in place. On my adapter I simply cut away enough plastic for the new NES connector to fit snugly in place and tightened up the screws to hold it in place. No plug, no mess.

My compeleted Mayflash adapter with a functional NES 7pin correction. Not the prettiest, but fully funtional and I used no glue at all.

11. Boot up your favorite NES, TurboGraphfx, Select Genesis Wiiware or Wii games including both Megaman 9 and 10 and enjoy them using either an authentic NES or SNES controller – that will still also work with the real NES and SNES!

Choose your controller of choice. Real NES or SNES controllers now both equally work great on thr Wii!

You can see the results of my work here:

Most NES controllers will work including third party Famiclone controllers as long as they adhere to the NES 7pin standard. Unfortunately, the NES Advantage arcade style stick doesn’t work correctly. One theory is that it needs 5v to run but the Wiimote can only provide 3v.

Any of these NES controllers will work on the Mayflash adapter. Sorry, the Advantage doesn’t work correctly.

Still, it’s a small annoyance compared to having a totally different plug.

Good luck and happy gaming!

Mayflash Hori Mod

Posted in Mod Projects, Peripherals, Tutorials on January 6, 2010 by satoshimatrix

At this point, I have a lot of console arcade sticks. From the awful Naki-Tec Mini stick to the fantastic Hori Real Arcade Pro, I’ve got arcade sticks for most of the consoles I own.

The Hori Real Arcade Pro 2

As much praise as I heap on the PS2 RAP2, it has one main problem: the stick is simply too big and to fit comfortably in my lap. It’s great if you set up a table or if were to be mounted into a custom arcade cabinet, but the majority of the time I want to use an arcade stick, I simply want it to rest in my lap without any additional setup required. My Sanwa modded Hori EX2 for the 360 fits that bill perfectly, but since I also still play my PS2 and Xbox 1 a lot, I started to look for an arcade stick for that system of around the size of the EX2.

After hearing really good things about the Mayflash arcade stick, I asked a friend for one for Christmas. The Mayflash Arcade Stick is a standard home arcade stick with an 8-button layout and connections for PS2 and PS3 & PC USB.

The Mayflash PS2/PC Stick

The stock components are pretty awful on the Mayflash. Not the
absolute worst, but they do have that cheap feel and design. The arcade stick shaft and balltop are one piece and cannot be separated!

The buttons, rather than be cheap microswitches, are even cheaper and are simply pushbuttons, meaning an entire PCB is below the eight main buttons.

The Mayflash is the perfect size to fit in your lap, has a great curved to the human hand 8-button layout and is lightweight but sturdy. It even works with my PS2-to-Xbox adapter! The only problem with it is the feel and response of the stock parts.

One of the nice bonuses of my Hori EX2 to Sanwa mod upgrade is that since I had to remove theEX2’s stock parts to replace them with the improved sanwa parts, I of course was left with the Hori parts that were in the EX2. Since I had those parts onhand and although they are not as good as sanwa parts, the hori components are still much much better than the Mayflash stock components.

Luckily for me, both the Hori EX2 buttons and the Mayflash stock buttons both are the same non-standard size of 28mm instead of the usual 30mm. This meant that the Hori buttons could simply be dropped in without any modding at all. Sweet!

The one issue was that the EX2 was a six button stick while the Mayflash is a full eight button stick. Without two additional buttons onhand, I was forced to keep two of the eight Mayflash buttons in place.

This presented a bit of a problem internally. The six EX2 stock buttons are microswitch buttons that send electrical signals via wires to the main PCB. In contrast, the Mayflash stock buttons are push buttons, the same kind as found on a normal sized controller. These buttons work by pressing against a PCB and sending a signal along a trace.
Therefore, inside of the Mayflash stick behind the eight stock push buttons was an oversized daughter PCB. That PCB would collect the signals from each button and relay them to the main PCB via a small connector.

the board for the eight buttons

Because I planned on using the Hori microswitch buttons, the PCB was both unnecessary and simply in the way. But before I could cut it and scrap it, I realized that I would still need at least part of it since I intended to use two of the eight stock Mayflash buttons.

By simply using a knife, I was able to cut away the PCB that would sit behind the last two Mayflash buttons. Lucikly for me, on both ends of the PCB were points where it was screwed into place by default design, so I didn’t even have to worry about keeping it in place somehow. All it took was exposing small trace points for the PCB and soldering to it to convert it and its push buttons into pseudo microswitch buttons. Hurrah!

Again luckily for me, the old stock eight button PCB for the pushbuttons was held in place by screws, and the part of the PCB I needed to keep has a hole for one of those screws. One screw alone is enough to hold the small amount of the main PCB that remains, so once more no glue was required.

The cut PCB and two Mayflash buttons remain while the other six Hori buttons snap into place

Now that all the buttons were in place, I needed to figure out how to connect them to the actual PCB. The mayflash daughter PCB had all the buttons interconnected and were thus common ground. For my purposes, without that PCB I would need to connect all the buttons together with wire, a process called “daisy chaining”.

The most challenging aspect of the project was figuring out which inputs on the PCB controlled what, and where.

After much experimenting, I finally got it down :

With this figured out, I soldered it all in place.

Once everything was in place, it was just a matter of putting the case back on and testing it out. I’m now happy to say that the Mayflash arcade stick with six Hori EX2 buttons works flawlessly!

And we have here the finished stick. Total mod cost: $0

Since the stick itself was a gift and I already had the Hori buttons, this arcade stick cost me a grand total of $0.00 and is almost as good as my godly RAP2. Maybe someday I’ll upgrade the Mayflash once again to full sanwa. In the meantime, happy gaming!

“Dream” Castlevania

Posted in Mod Projects, NES on January 6, 2010 by satoshimatrix

One of the coolest discoveries in recent memory for 8-bit tech geeks like myself was indisputably 133Mhz’s Dream Mary tutorial, where ordinary copies of Super Mario Bros./Duck Hunt could be converted into copies of the illusive Famicom pirate Mario cart dubbed “Dream Mary”.

As soon as I heard of this, I set to task converting my own copy of Super Mario Bros. into Dream Mary. What a cool way to enjoy your favorite classic games in new, unique way that the designers had never envisioned.

I want to do this to as many NES games as possible, but there is a slight catch. Although not technically permanent, soldering and desoldering my humble NES collection isn’t something I am very comfortable doing. Instead, I intend to buy an extra copy of each game I will alter.
The first game was SMB into Dream Mary, and soon after, I bought another copy of Castlevania.

I’ve since recorded a short demo of my Dream Castlevania to show you guys. Hope you enjoy!

Hori EX2 Sanwa Mod

Posted in Mod Projects, Tutorials on October 16, 2009 by satoshimatrix

Last time, I suggested that one could improve the Hori EX2 – and that’s saying a lot. As those who own it and have used it before can tell you, the Xbox 360 Hori EX2 Arcade Stick is a very high quality home console arcade stick at an affordable price.

The Hori EX2 is a wired USB arcade stick for use on Xbox 360 and Windows. It features six full 30mm arcade-sized face buttons (A B X Y LT RT) as well as smaller secondary buttons (LB RB Start Back and the Xbox Guide). It also has a headset jack so you can fully use it on Xbox Live. The stick comes standard with a Japanese style balltop joystick with a square restrictor plate.

My stock Hori EX2

My stock Hori EX2

The Hori EX2 measures 11″ x 8″, is 1 ½” tall and it weights in a only a couple of pounds. This means unlike the monterious $150 sticks it is both small enough and heavy enough to be perfectly suited to rest on your lap rather than being forced to be played on a table. I don’t know about you, but I find using setting up a table while on the couch to be extremely awkward. Yay for the EX2.

The real reason the Hori EX2 stands out from others is the maker – Hori. Hori is a Japanese arcade manufacturer and have been making console peripherals for years in Japan. Hori products usually mean high quality and the EX2 is no exception. From the stick to the buttons, every part of the EX2 is authentic Hori parts.

However, as good as Hori parts are, they are not the highest quality you can get. For that, most turn to Sanwa, another Japanese arcade part manufacturer. Remember those arcades kiddies? Chances are if you were playing a Japanese game,you were using Sanwa parts. So why settle for Hori when you can have Sanwa?

Well, it seems a lot of people have had this idea, and there is a fantastic tutorial you all should check out if you want to replace the stock Hori parts with much better Sanwa. parts.

http://pineconeattack.com/2009/03/07/how-to-mod-the-hori-ex2hori-wii-fighting-stick-with-actual-sanwa-joystick-and-buttons/

This tutorial focuses on the Wii version of the EX2, but it is almost identical to the 360 stick.

Having preformed the mod, I feel I can better share some insight into avoiding some mistakes and clearing up somethings that the tut makes a little misty.

Differances between the Wii and 360 EX2’s interiors:

-The Wii has only one main PCB for the buttons. The 360 has a daughter board. The tut calls for 18 gauge wire and it is unneeded in the 360’s case. Just normal wire will do.

-You can desolder and remove the common ground PCB rather than slice it up. Fitting the Sanwa microchips in place without it will reduce space and make fitting it inside the small Hori casing easier.

-The Wii tut says that you should be able to slightly grind away the metal base with a dremel until you don’t make contact with the base. The EX2 for 360 doesn’t have enough room for this, so completely drill a hole through it and then widen it until you no longer make contact with the joystick. Use simple electrical or duct tape to cover the hole from the bottom. This is an easier solution and since its on the bottom of the stick, it won’t matter if its unsightly.

And thats it! Once done, you will have an even better EX2!


Japanese balltop anyone?

Or are you more of an Amercian bat top style gamer?

...Or are you more of an Amercian bat top style gamer?

NES to Xbox

Posted in Mod Projects, Peripherals, Tutorials with tags , , on September 19, 2009 by satoshimatrix

Over the years and getting good deals on mixed gaming odd and ends on ebay, I’ve acquired quite a few NES controllers. You know the kind – the iconic boxy less-than-comfortable-yet-so- nostalgic-we-accept-them-anyway ones.

Amongst all my NES controllers I had one that wouldn’t work – its 4021 Control Chip was apparently shot. Being useless to the NES now, I thought of other usages – decoration on my car rear view mirror or maybe on my backpack. Hack it up to work like those NES controller mp3 players we’ve all read about. Or maybe just keep it around for spare parts.

I didn’t like any of these ideas all that much and I really just wished I could use it in some way. It wasn’t long before I got the idea to use it as an interface device with my Xbox 1. To interface the NES controller with anything else would require removing the 4021, and since mine was shot anyway, there would be no loss. For the project I wanted to use a controller that wouldn’t matter, so I purchased a Madcatz controller.

Copied controller make for great hack projects

Copied controller make for great hack projects

When it arrived, the fun began. The first thing you need to do is open that NES controller up – its held together by six small star screws and the back plate easily comes off when the screws are removed.

The stock NES controllers inner beauty

The stock NES controller's inner beauty

In the middle of the PCB is the NES 4021 Control Chip. Mine wasn’t working, but regardless you’ll need to remove it. There are a number of ways you can successfully remove it. First, you could simply cut off the pins and then use a soldering iron to loosen and drop the remaining bits out, you could use a soldering iron and a solder sucker/braid and drop the chip out that way, or you can go overboard and use a heatgun like I did. At the time I did this, I didn’t have a solder sucker yet, so I was unable to use that approach.

If using a heatgun, first wrap the entire PCB in thick plastic – the kind of waterproofing walls, not grocery bag plastic. Then, use a marker to outline a box around the 4021 chip. Remove the PCB and use an knife to cut out a small rectangle. Tape the plastic tightly over the PCB. Next, wrap the entire board except for where you want the heat applied with tinfoil. By doing this, you will ensure you do not damage any part of the board. This is a risky process, so don’t blame me if you destroy your NES PCB.

Your NES controller should now look like this.

Your NES controller should now look like this.

With the 4021 chip removed, yo can now clearly see the trace lines. I had the fun time of mapping the NES controller’s 4021 pinout. Since the NES controller’s cord had only five wires (thus the need for the 4021 chip to decode those few wires) and yet the need for 9 (eight for the buttons and one ground) I had to replace the cord too. Use anything you can find that has at least nine wires. old printer cables work great here. Because you won’t be using the old cord, this means that only nine of the sixteen pins matter.

My crude diagram showing which pins are which.

My crude diagram showing which pins are which.

Once traced, The fine small soldering began and after a bit of work, I was able to wire an NES controller right to the Xbox 1 controller!

Here you can see the points where you need to solder to in order to do this project on the Madcatz Xbox controller:

Marked in red are possible solder points. Choose which buttons you want to use.

Marked in red are possible solder points. Choose which buttons you want to use.

Before soldering, you need to consider where the cord to the NES controller will go. I thought the best place would be where the memory card slot was, so I removed the memory card pins (since you will never need them anyway). Feed the cord you will use for the NES through the hole and hot glue it in place so it doesn’t move. Once this is all done, you will end up with a setup like this

an NES controller wired to a Madcatz Xbox 1.

an NES controller wired to a Madcatz Xbox 1.

Next carefully fold the wires on the NES side into place where its old cord was and put its back on and screw it in place. On the Xbox Controller tape down the face buttons as they will now be nothing more than decoration. Carefully reapply its casing and screw it back in place. If everything went according to plan, you should now have a working NES controller on your Xbox!

Use it with emulators, collections, and even some Xbox 1 games that don’t require a ton of buttons!

And here it is! Ready for some NES action?

And here it is! Ready for some NES action?

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