Ships log:
The Big Trip
The morning we left home
Grand Cayman Island
Where we are located onboard
26.01.08
become thriving industries.
However, this was the day that Sue went to Hell, literally, as it was included in the tour of Island Highlights. On the way we passed the
Governor's Mansion and the Ritz Carlton's condominiums which start at a mere $2.5 million each! & seven mile beach (seven miles
of pristine sand). Hell is a very small area of very unusual rock formation  that led an island commissioner to exclaim "This must be
what Hell looks like." But it does support it's own Post Office & postmark.
We also passed the turtle farm as turtle meat is the #1 food of the island so they are farmed to prevent over fishing but 30% are
released into the wild every year. Really fascinating was the house built from over 4,000 conch shells, which is still privately owned.
The final stop was the Tortuga Rum factory with it's famous rum cake, talk about potent!!!! Around the factory grounds were a number of
historical artifacts including three salvaged cannons from a 1794 ship wreck.
So the tour ended and time to set sail, but what a beautiful Island, so clean and pristine but developing fast.
Today was our first port of call, dropping anchor at just before 10am, having
majestically steamed into Georgetown Harbour. A beautifully sunny day with a
temperature of 26oC and a easterly breeze of 15 knots, preventing one from being
cooked!
To get us to shore we used the ships tenders, which ran a great shuttle service back
and forth.
When Columbus made his landfall in the Caymans in 1503, he found tortoises and
sea turtles in such profusion that he promptly named the island Las Tortugas.
But the name that stuck for the islands was the Carib word Caimanas. Fitting, since
the Caiman is a New World crocodilian and the islands were long the lair for pirates,
buccaneers, and assorted Freebooters. The Cayman Islands were territories of
Jamaica until 1962, when Jamaica gained its independence and Caymanians
chose to remain British subjects. The colony has a British governor, appointed by the
Queen who presides over an elected Assembly and the mixed Executive Council
Despite their past, the Caymans are a Caribbean demi-paradise of white-sand
beaches, coral gardens, and offshore waters harboring spectacular shipwrecks.
Grand Cayman, Cayman Brac and Little Cayman also boast the highest standard of
living in the entire Caribbean, as over the past 20 years tourism & banking have
etc. On some of the more populated islands like Porvenir and Carti, it's not uncommon to see youth wearing sneakers, baseball caps
&  t-shirts.
One noticed the vast amount of plastic around, pails, crates, chairs, bags & more. Yet the women for the most part wore the traditional
molas and bead work around their legs. The buildings were al built with no more than one person width apart down the side roads
and the main road, probably no more that three to four people (shoulder to shoulder) wide. Just as well there was no mobile
transportation!!!! The crafts they produced were exquisite, especially the embroidery. The other point of interest was that it was mostly
women & children sitting doing the selling. However one could not take a photograph without having to hand over a dollar, even it was
for a hibiscus blossom! Two words were very well known...dollar & picture.
Evidence of some concrete buildings could be seen and one can only presume this came with the missionaries. A lot are just now
ramshackle shells. Dug out canoes are most definitely the mode of transport whether that are paddled, sailed or have an outboard
motor attached.
There are no two ways about it the merchandise the Kuna Indians produce is exquisite to say the least but how much income is
derived from their sale or the dollars given for photographs is a toss up.
But most certainly a worthwhile & eye opening visit.
A very cloudy & overcast day, with a temperature of 26oC, strong winds as we sailed
into the Gulf of Kuna Yala and its collection of 360 Islands known as the comarca of
Kuna Yala (San Blas). These islands and a relatively thin stretch of mainland runs
along the Atlantic Coast towards the Columbian Border.
Most of the Kuna Indians live on the mainland near river mouths, or on islands, of
which only approx. 40 are inhabited. Formerly of Columbia the Kunas have inhabited
this region of Panama for hundreds of years, and were, in fact, there to greet the first
European Explorers in the early 1500's.
Despite relentless pressure & persuasion by both European & Panamanian
governments to adopt a more westernized lifestyle, the Kunas have for the most part
succeeded in preserving their culture and distinct way of life.
Once isolated Kuna Yala now enjoys daily service to any one of its 10-15 airstrips that
reside along the Atlantic Coast.  This has had a direct and dramatic impact on daily life
in Kuna Yala. Kunas like the rest of us, have taken a liking to jewelry, ipods, clothing
Kuna Indian Embroidery
First Stop Gatun Locks
The beauty and the grandeur have to be seen and people line the balconies of buildings at the locks to watch them work.  To finally
see this engineering feat was truly a wonderful experience. Mavis may have to do it again,
We woke at 6am to banging and clanging as the ships & Panama Canal crew were
preparing the various ropes and cables that would be required to hook us up to the
modern day "mules" (small, strong trains) to get us through the three sets of locks of
the Panama Canal and the purpose of this trip.
What an incredible sunrise to start a fabulous day and yes it takes a day. Forty-five
miles across the Isthmus, three sets of locks and a river like canal to navigate.
Starting with Gatun on the Caribbean side there were three lifts to reach Gatun Lake.
The ground around is green and the lake is full of ships heading east or west. Seems
the direction varies with the time of day. They have begun the widening process and
there appears to be on-going dredging. Besides a myriad of different birds, including
flying green parakeets, we were told to look out for crocodiles, big old fellas that pay
little attention to what doesn't interest them.
On the western side after passing the very modern Centennial Bridge (looks like a
giant fan) was a single lock at San Pedro - just a little drop of 31 feet followed closely
by two locks at Mira Flores and you are in the Pacific and passing under the Bridge  of
Americas (the road it carries allows people to drive all the way up to Alaska).
Overlooking Cusco
The first look at Mach Picchu
great overall photograph of the site.
All too soon it was time to go down to get the train back home, but not before having time to tour the market with all the native arts and
crafts and incredibly low prices. Most certainly a day ever to be forgotten.
A 5 am wakeup call for the day we had all been waiting for, the trip to Machu Picchu
2000 feet lower than Cusco. We boarded a beautiful modern dome train and a second
breakfast. The scenery down the valley was spectacular, passing local houses, farms,
old Inca establishments. The start of the original Inca trail that hikers take four days to
travel with the assistance of Sherpas.
Upon our arrival in Agus Calientes we had a quick walk through the local market to the
small buses for the 20 minute drive up the steep hairpin bend road to Machu Picchu.
Then all of a sudden there it was.
What an incredible historic site nestled between several mountains, in particular Big &
Little Mountains. This site covers acres and acres of terraces, royal, storage, priests,
security, temple, sundial, solstice buildings. All these are beautifully maintained and
have continuing archaeological digs thanks to National Geographic and UNESCO.
Sue took the time to climb right up to the security hut in order to get the
Ollantaytambortress
Presidential Palace
Our Ship from Ahu Tahai
After five days at sea we made Easter Island, however we nearly did not make it
ashore as the sea swell was so high it made it dangerous for the tenders to make it
ashore through the small inlet with huge breakers on either side. However Neptune
listened and after about an hours delay folks started to go ashore.
Mavis decide to err on the side of caution and stayed put, which was just as well
because it was most definitely a roller coaster ride in.
Sue went in a couple of hours ahead of her tour and just managed to catch the post
office open for some beautiful stamps for the post cards. On the way back to the tour
pickup point she managed to get a good feel of the local town, even found some
local carvers at their craft.
The tour while short managed to provide a feel for this small island of only 4,000
people. But of course the most important part were the big stone Maoi. No one to this
day knows the truth behind their existence. In fact when they were first found not one
After three days of gaining an hour each day as we travel west, (have to gain 9 hours
before we reach Australia) we have no problems waking up! But today turned out to be
really special.
Originally we were scheduled to have a scenic cruise around Pitcairn Island, (made
famous by the mutineers from HMS Bounty settling here.) However much to the delight
of everyone the Captain managed to arrange for the Islanders to come onboard not
only with their crafts, but also to stamp our passports and provide a commentary as
we circled the Island. The biggest shock of all was seeing practically the whole
population (50) all jammed into the longboat, which is their only means of getting
supplies ashore when deliveries happen every three months from freighters.
Some of the Islanders are direct descendants from Fletcher Christian and one of the
other mutineers. Totally fascinating talking with them and finding out their way of life.
We lucked in with the postcards as there is another cruise ship coming three days
after us and they will pick them up and get them mailed from Tahiti but with a Pictairn
post mark.
The Pictairn Island Population!
Day 23 - Tahiti
View from One Tree Hill
With the sound of the anchor chain thundering, we were awakened to the fact Tahiti
was nearby. Out on the balcony the first sight that greeted us was Bali Hi, in fact it was
the Island of Moorrea supposedly the inspiration for Bali Hi. Then over to the left was
Tahiti and all the reefs that surround her. A huge heat haze hung over the Island as we
entered the harbour, sailing past the end of the airport runway! In the harbour we found
ourselves in Port with another cruise ship (Crystal Sea) for the first time since Fort
Lauderdale.  
Papeete is the chief port and trading centre. Immortalized in the novel Mutiny on the
Bounty, who could blame the men of HMS Bounty for abandoning their ship in favour of
basking in paradise? And what would Modern Art be without Tahiti's influence on
Gauguin and Matisse? Papeete has quadrupled in the past ten years making it a truly
bustling city, including a traffic nightmare, took our tour bus to travel 100 yards in half
an hour.
Day 25 - Rarotonga
01.02.08
03.02.08
Main Street of Avarua
Okay we have found it, the perfect retirement place, Rarotonga the largest of the 15
Cook Islands as well as the seat of Government. It's only 67 sq km, has spectacular
bush clad mountains. Has a main road that circles the Island`s 32km of beautiful
coastline. Avarua is the capital and the main port, regretfully we landed on a Sunday
and the vast majority of stores, restaurants etc. were closed. But it was very evident
that they have a thriving artisans `village` The temperature was 28oC and even the
locals were finding that hot! The average temperature is 26oC, hey we can take that
any day! But it would appear they can have some fierce storms as was evidenced by
the ship lying wrecked on the harbour wall from a storm two weeks previous.
Walking around Avarua one found the town to be neatly kept, designed in a way that
reminded one of a quiet English Village, they even drove on the same side of the road
as the English. A few shops opened for the ships visit and one found a wealth of
beautiful local products, from black pearls, carvings to hand painted sarongs. The local
people were only too willing to give you directions, information and showed great pride in their Island. It became very apparent that
making an income was important it was not that important as having a quiet and peaceful life. The stores that did open only opened so
that the visitors would not be disappointed and not to make money. There is virtually no unemployment, in fact the resorts on the other
side of the Island have great difficulty in finding sufficient staff. So I think we have ear marked the Cook Islands for a possible return visit.
While waiting for the tour bus Sue visited the Tourist Information centre that had some local artisans and a demonstration of weaving  
and ended up making her own bracelet! The tour took in the home of James Norman Hall author of Mutiny on the Bounty (and many other
books) as well as the first film script. We visited one tree hill that still has the original tree that Captain Cook used as a navigational
landmark in 1769, it provided us with a spectacular view of Matavia Bay.  Next stop was Point Venus a spectacular Bay with black volcanic
sand. This beautiful bay is where explorers Bligh, Wallis and Cook landed also where the first full colour film of Mutiny on the Bounty was
filmed. The Bay also had a fully working light house built in 1867 by Robert Louis Stevenson`s grandfather. But by far the most spectacular
part of the tour was the Faarumai Valley waterfall, reached by a walk through lush rain forest.
But  all too soon it was time to leave as the sun set on Bali Hi!
was standing. Over time some have been re-erected on their plinths to give people a better idea of their size. Archaeologists are still
working to try to unlock the mystery, are still finding Maoi deliberately buried. Maybe one day all will be revealed.
Fortunately the seas stayed moderately calm allowing us to return to the ship but not before having to go through a very narrow gap of
huge waves and surf.
Day 8 - Start of Peru Overland Trip
Manta Port of Quito the Capital of Ecuador and of course home of the "Panama Hat."
No we didn't buy any!
Raining and rather miserable outside.
This is the departure point for the overland tours to the Galapagos and Machu Picchu
where Sue will cover the next three days, while Mavis relaxes sailing on to Callo the
port of Lima, Peru.
For Sue it was really very early start 5am!!! to catch flights from Quito to Cusco via
Lima, but oh the beauty of the three mountain ranges and the valleys between. The
hotel was very modern, very comfortable built on ancient Inca walls which were very
evident. However at 11000 feet Cusco can be a little uncomfortable to say the least.
A tour taking in the an Inka Museum, the cathedral and an Inca site just outside the city
also allowed people to get a good view of the city overall but also left everyone pretty
exhausted.
Our last full day and finally a reasonable 9am start. Today we took a bus down the
valley to the terrific market town of Pisac. We passed through very fertile areas being
farmed totally by hand, only twice in our travels did we tractors.
Pisac Market was a bustling area that catered not only to the tourists but the locals as
well. With a very old fashioned kiln oven for the bakery, that baked not only bread but
potatoes and the Peru delicacy of Guinea Pig! But the bargains to be had were truly
amazing.
For lunch we stopped at a fantastic Spanish Hacinda that served the most incredible
buffet and had the most beautiful terraced gardens.
Our final stop was Ollantaytamboortress in the Valley of the Kings. Never completed it
still had some incredible watercourses which was impossible to workout how they
made happen.
Then it was back to the hotel for a 4.20am start the next day.
Day 11- Lima & rejoin the ship
So we flew from Cusco to Lima to join the ship but not before we did a short tour of the
city.
Lima is very representative of the Spanish Catholic influence over the centuries. Large
cathedrals, monasteries on squares used as markets. Colourful native population of
all ages selling beautiful handcrafts (many from Alpaca & Lama fur) at prices less
than the quality deserves and you can negotiate even lower. The predominant
architectural feature is the ornate balconies on most of the buildings.
Two thirds of Peru's population now live in Lima. Much of this urbanization of the
population a result of the terrorist group "Shining Path" now eradicated. Efforts are
underway to convert unused older buildings to begin to address the housing needs
and lack of population in the inner city.
Back to the Port of Callo to find the ship. What a busy port, freighters coming and
going, loading and unloading with flags and names we don't even recognize. Callo
has grown so much it is now part of Lima.
So at 1 pm we pulled out of port and set sail for Easter Island which will take 5 days.
Day 6 - Panama Canal
Day 5 - San Blas
Day 1
After a really great trouble free trip from Fredericton to Ft. Lauderdale & an uneventful 2
day layover,getting onboard was anything but!!
For whatever reasons we can not fathom out things went at a snails pace. Only four
wheel chairs for those needing assistance & they had to wait in line with the rest,
which took well over 45 minutes, so I leave you to figure it out. No Preferred line for
those with suites or with Platinum Cards. Ten did not have Yellow Fever certificates so
did not sail and 50 were put in a separate room because they did not have Australian
visas which Princess had said they would do!!!!
Anyway we finally made it on board, found our really super suite and got settled in. Set
sail as the sun set at just after 5.30pm. Had a magnificent supper with a great couple
from California, found the wash kit and pj's and fell into bed to a gently swaying boat
Day 2
Today was an unpack day all suitcases having successfully made it aboard. Also
found some welcoming gifts...thank you very much Ramsay.
Our course today was westerly passing through the Florida Channel, which is the
channel separating from Key Island and the North side of Cuba. Following the North
Coast of Cuba, which we actually got to see, all be it somewhat hazy. It also became
very apparent that this was a very busy shipping area as we saw countless other
cruise ships, tankers and container ships. Once clear of Cuba our course changed to
southeast heading for Grand Cayman.
We also became more acquainted with the ship that is to be our home for the next 101
days. The decor of the ship is very stately, reminds one of the Orient Express. Gold
brocade drapes, candelabra like lights, etc. However there are some very modern
amenities like a state of the art fitness centre, beauty spa & internet café which is
where we have hit another snag. We will see how long it will take to get squared away.
Today's temperature was a balmy 25oC with an easterly wind of 10 knots
15.01.08
14.01.08
12.01.08
Day 3  - Grand Cayman Island
10.01.08
11.01.08
17.01.08
18.01.08
Day 9 - Machu Picchu
Day 10 - Touring Rural Peru
19.01.08
20.01.08
Day 17 - Easter Island
Day 30 - New Zeland
09.02.08
Entering Auckland Harbour
gnats.
The port was clean and attractive even if no tours were available. Lots of new construction going on and some familiar signs on
buildings - HSBC, Price Waterhouse Cooper, Phillips. Even though many of the major stores had closed (5pm)a few small outlets were
open for those needing postcards, stamps to stock up on snacks etc. and a lot of coffee shops and bistros around.
However we were given a glimpse of Maori traditions as a local group came onboard and gave a beautiful one hour show of dancing,
singing and traditions which was really great.
So we sailed at midnight, however we did not leave New Zealand territory until about 1.30pm the following day when we passed the tip
of New Zealand's North Island and turned on to a due west course across the Tasman Sea (hopefully no cyclones) for a 3 day sail to
Sydney. Oh right, one other little item to mention we lost the 7th of February!.........Because we crossed the international date line on the
6th.
Oh boy did we have a rough trip to New Zealand! We encountered cyclone Gene, had
to alter course away from the center and for two days made very little headway. Even
though we were some 200 miles away from the centre we still had a very rough ride
and the small dingy stored on the fore deck broke loose and caused some major
damage to the safety rail.
The other problem it created was being 10 hours behind schedule, the cancelling of
all tours and only 6 hours in port. But what it did mean is that we got to see the New
Zealand coastline as we entered Hauraki Gulf with many delightful outlying islands,
where dolphins came to have a close look at the ship (awesome) and took all day to
reach the well sheltered Auckland harbour. Everyone here must own a sail boat! There
were races going on with boats of different sizes, training boats and a vast host of
people just out enjoying their Saturday afternoon. One race of windsurfers crossed the
bow well ahead and just seemed to disappear in the distance like a swarm of angry
Day 34 - Sydney, Australia
13.02.08
Mission Accomplished
a great visit including lunch. There were three mechanical ways to get to see more of the canyon, a steep railway or cable car down and
up or a vertigo nightmare cable car over one of the canyons! We chose to stay up and wander around taking in the many great views.
Then it was time to return to the city but not before stopping off at Featherdale Wildlife Park which had nothing but Australian wildlife.
Some were in cages or compounds but a great number flying, walking, hopping or climbing around loose. Cockatoos we have
discovered are extremely noisy, but find it amazing to see flocks of them flying around everywhere. In the park there was every species of
wallabies, from small rabbit size to the regular size, most of which you could pet. It was the same for the Koalas, which was simply
terrific....and yes Sue got to hug her Koala!
We came back through a community called Blacktown, which two months earlier had a huge hailstorm (baseball size) go through, about
50% of the houses and some of the schools still had tarps over their roofs waiting to be fixed due to a shortage of roofers! Then just
before we were due to enter the city center Peter pulled a major surprised, he and the driver had worked out a return route that bought us
back over the Harbour Bridge and down George Street which provided us with two fantastic photo opportunities, one with the Pacific
Princess and the Opera House and the other with the Harbour Bridge.
It would be very wrong to end this report without mentioning that 13th February 2008 was a very important date in Australian History, at
10am the Prime Minister got up in the House of Parliament and apologized to the aboriginal people for the wrongs done to them
throughout history. While this statement carried no form of compensation, none the less it is a major step forward, one that the previous
Prime Minister's Government refused to do.
Yahoo! a great day to celebrate as Mavis finally made it ashore and managed to get a
fantastic day tour. Right from the get go our guide Peter and the bus driver, Michael
worked together to provide us with far more than our itinerary called for. The first being
a stop at the 2000 Olympic site complete with lots & lots of background information.
The site is still totally utilized, for example all the buildings that the media used are
now used for the State Fair, the Main Stadium used for huge concerts, yes Celine
Dione has performed there! The swimming pools are in constant use by the public as
are the field hockey pitches. Seeing one of the 14,000 torches was meaningful for Sue
who of course ran the Calgary Olympic torch.
Next was our first official stop, the magnificent Blue Mountains (Australia's Grand
Canyon) so called because of the blue haze caused by light refracting from the
eucalyptus trees. We thought we were going to see very little due to the cloud, but as
has been happening with all our visits after a little while the sun came out and we had
Day 20 - Pictairn Island
29.01.08
Day 38
17.02.08
The weather God is certainly looking over us. A huge Monsoon hit Queensland
dumping in one day, 625mm of rain on the city of Mackay (twice the average for the
entire month!). Cairns got heavy rain the night before we arrived, then half an hour
before we left the Monsoon caught up with us! However humidity of 80% was front and
centre all day.
Cairns is most definitely a tourist city the biggest attraction being the magnificent Great
Barrier Reef, followed by the magnificent rain forest which is a National Park. Second
industry is sugar cane which we passed fields and fields of en route to a small tour of
the Rain Forest in an "Army Duck". The different species of wild flowers was truly
amazing, some looking as if they were made out of wax. Over 60 different species of
Palm trees some well over 200 years old. Also pointed out were some not so good
species of plant one could encounter. Some tropical wildlife as well, but thankfully no
snakes or crocs.
A great Aboriginal demonstration of dancing, spear & boomerang throwing as well as
how to play a didgereedoo, all of which one could try a hand at! No Sue did not venture
into these. However she did get into her element in the wildlife park hand feeding the
roos & wallabies. Also got to see dingos, wombats, crocs (no hand feeding here!) and
more Koalas some with babies, but the biggest surprise of all here you could actually
get up close to hug them.
Baby Bonus
Next stop Rabul Papua New Guinea, (great visit for those war history buffs) passing through the Coral Sea and past the Solomon
Islands. Hopefully the volcanoes will remain quiet while we were there.
Oh yes one big surprise at lunch today when we found ourselves sitting at a table next to Marty Allen! yes the famous one who is
onboard to do some shows. Bonus.
Day 38 - Cains, Australia
Day 41 - Rabaul, Papua New Guinea
20.02.08
Well I think we can truly say this was an OH MY GOD day. We knew ahead of time that
the town of Rabaul was in a volcanic area known as the ring of fire, that it had been
totally destroyed in 1994 by volcanic ash and that there were "smoking" volcanoes in
the area. What we were no prepared for was a volcano spectacularly belching smoke
and steam just a few miles from us. Thank goodness the wind was blowing out to sea
and not towards the town as I doubt one would have been able to disembark and walk
around.
Walking around town was totally fascinating, starting with the fact one realized on the
dirt side walks one was walking on fine volcanic ash that felt as if one was walking on
silk, must be a nightmare when it rains. The local people were just fantastically
friendly, happily smiling, waving, greeting you with a good morning and hello/hi.
English as well as the local dialect are the two predominant languages which was
most helpful, especially when trying to locate the post office located at the very back of
one of the several general stores. Eventually a local escort was provided to ensure the
Post Office was located. At one point a gentleman called Ben (who worked with the
local police) stopped and introduced himself and advised that they had members of
the local force driving around to ensure our visit was a safe one! Not too sure what we
Truly active
had to worry about, although one of the tours had been re-routed due to a local "tribal" dispute.
One of the most fascinating areas found was the local "farmers market" where all the local were shopping for their fresh vegetables.
What a totally remarkable place to visit, fresh everything ginger root, spring onions, fish or beef stew tied up in palm leaves, to totally
unknown vegetables and yes even fresh donuts! But obviously from the colour of many tounges and lips beetle nuts are a hot favorite!
The market was obviously a local project each section being marked as to what was for sale as well as bus stops for all the different
routes with well marked shelters.
However with the temperature reaching into the 30s and the humidity hitting 80% one found that staying in town for an extended period
of time was just not possible no matter how much one would have liked to have. After a our ten hour stop we sailed back through the
Blanche Bay and out past the Islands of New Ireland enroute to the Island of Chuuk.
Day 44 - Chuuk, Micronesia
23.02.08
Local taxi stand
We have found ourselves wondering why we stopped in Chuuk as no tours were
available and there was very little to see or do.  However if you were a scuba diver you
were in your element as the lagoon which Chuuk is located in  is full of sunken wreck
from WWII. Chuuk (or Truk as it was known was during the war) was one of Japans
most feared Pacific bases. Having airfields supporting hundreds of aircraft and a
lagoon with unlimited anchorages for naval and merchant vessels. Between February
16th & 18th 1944 Operation "Hailstorm" carried out by US forces sent over 60
Japanese ships to the bottom of the lagoon as are Japanese & US aircraft, but
interestingly Chuuk was never invaded by the allies.
The commerce of the town had me questioning. Obviously a trade in local produce
which was evidenced by displays outside small shops housed in homes or a local
market located near the ship. Lots of small stores were literally littered throughout the
town, but it was difficult to know what each sold due to lack of signage as we know it. Also there were three or four  well stocked
General Stores selling everything from nails to baby lotion. A modern local hotel offering scuba diving tours as did another hotel
nearby. We gathered that on average one cruise ship a week visits and that  Australians visit very regularly to scuba dive. Some of our
cruise passengers did in fact go out with the local company, however those who had hoped to have gone snorkeling were out of luck
as there did  not seem to be a location to rent equipment. This is where my puzzlement comes in, there was evidence of abject poverty,
however a lot of   cars being driven as well as many on the scrap heap, (even though Gas was $7 a gallon (US)) a Toyota dealership
very evident and all the  small boats that brought people to the market had Yamaha outboard motors & they are certainly not cheap! So
is the place slipping into abandonment or is the terrific dichotomy part of a town evolving into a tourism attraction? Wish there was
someone onboard who had been here before to provide some insight as to how change is happening if at all.
Day 46 - Guam
25.02.08
Sweetheart of the show
but oh the viewit must have. Also of interest were the very decorative trams that ferry everyone around the town. In Grand Caman they
had giant decorative iguanas all over the Island, well here it was bulls, one never knew where one would pop up. We were able to get
back to the ship in time to see a local dance troop provide us with a performance of traditional dances and songs, there were two pint
sized performers who just stole the show, but nice to see that at a very early age they are learning some of the traditional ways. Those
tropical showers turned into a tropical storm as we left and we had a somewhat rough 36 hours but no where near as bad as the edge
of the cyclone we went through en route to Auckland.
Guam we found a little disappointing, but probably because we were unable to get
into the countryside. The port was a fair distance from the first town and taxis were
not exactly cheap, so we took advantage of the free shuttle bus to the next town of
Tumon, which was about a 40 minute drive. There are two things that are
predominant in Guam a huge US military presence and duty free shopping. The best
way to describe Tumon is a Las Vagas style Kittery and for sure the main clientele
are the Japanese and their strong yen. However everything worked out for the best as
we had tropical showers all day so shopping was an excellent route to go, plus we
were able to find a store that had all the items we were looking for and as a bonus a
hotel with WiFi so all we had to do was sit in the lobby fire up the internet and send
the updated web site on top of that the front desk had postage stamps and looked
after the mailing of the postcards. During the bus ride we did get a good view of the
shore line including one of the beaches the US troops stormed complete with a
rusting out ship  but with a beautiful memorial park. We saw the famous Two lovers
rock, a very impressive Governor Generals complex with obviously a war time
building on the cliff that has now been abandoned and looking a little worse for wear,
Day 48 - Iwo Jima
27.02.08
There she blows!
Today was a very emotional one for the Americans onboard as we slowly went round
the coast of Iwo Jima, with a great commentary from the bridge explaining the battle
and pointing out the fox holes, tunnel entrances and pill boxes that can still be seen.
Iwo Jima is known to most of us from the famous photograph by Joe Rosenthal of the
six marines hoisting the US flag on the top of Mt Suribachi. more than 28,000 lives
were lost on this Island. As we came opposite Mt Suribachi a short memorial service
was held (including a US Iwo Jima vet who was onboard), just as the service ended 4
US jet fighters flew over. In 1968 the island was returned to Japan but has no
permanent population, just an air base operated by the Japan Maritime Self-Defence
Force and occasionally used by the US Air Force for touch & go exercises. But we all
got a huge bonus because as we were gently cruising past the east shore it suddenly
became evident we had sailed into a pod of whales, then for a good half an hour wewere given a magnificent show of blowhole spray,
fins and flukes coming out of the water, then towards the end at least three of them breaching. But our biggest show stopper came
when one whale who got between the ship and the shore really leapt out of the water providing us with a clear picture of its black & white
striped belly, what is more Sue managed to catch it on the camera, even though it is small thanks to modern technology we think we can
get it blown up to a reasonable size. Once again we lucked in with the weather because no sooner had we cleared the island then the
winds really picked up and we got more tropical storms and huge sea swells, once again making for a noisy and very rocky evening.
Day 50 - Kagoshima, Japan
29.02.08
Once again weather played havoc with our arrival in Japan, but no where near as bad
as Auckland, this time the tours just needed to be shortened rather than canceled. Our
arrival was amazing, we docked at a newly constructed pier specifically for tour ships.
Had a building that housed a bank, post office and a small number of vendors and
had a huge banner welcoming Princess cruises This was an inaugural visit for the
Princess cruise line, so a special ceremony was held onboard. A PA system playing
music the whole time. A fleet of taxis and buses were already parked ready to take
folks where ever they needed to go. Talk about being made to feel really welcome!
Despite two stops being cut from our tour we still got to see a lot on the Island of
Kyushu. Obviously has a very robust agricultural business, acres and acres of neatly
planted lines everything, from beans & cabbage to surprisingly tea bushes. Not a
Courtyard of a Samurai house
spare inch of land was wasted. We passed by a huge oil depot housing 57 giant oil containers (sufficient for 2 weeks supply), we learnt
that by law Japans oil depots must always have on hand oil supplies for 160 days! Other things we learnt about the island is that it has
an aerospace industry with two rocket launch sites for satellites, that all the Toyota, Nissan & Lexus cars for North America are made
here. Our stop for lunch was also one of the sites for the hot relaxing sand baths! Our stop to visit some of the old Samurai houses was
really interesting, their gardens being nothing like ours. They feature natural materials such as trees, shrubs & rocks to symbolize the
forms and features of the natural beauty. There were seven houses open to the public, but there were many others that are still lived in
today by the decedents of the samurai of more than 200 years ago. The town of Chiran where the gardens were situated was clean and
pristine as anything I have seen, what was really fascinating was the little man made stream that ran alongside the side walk had giant
blue carp in it!!! All too soon our tour came to and end,but not before we had passed giant pagodas and budhas all marking the sites of
various temples. When we came to leave what a send off we were given, a half an hour drum concert by a local troop, then as the lines
were let go Auld Lang Sygn was played over their PA system and everyone turned out to wave us good bye. Truly a memorable visit.
Day 52 - Start of China Overland Tour
02.03.08
Shanghi Skyline
from our guide on the way to the airport that Shanghai will be hosting the World Trade Fair in 2010, hence the building boom. Due to
taking the overland trip to see the Forbidden City & the Great Wall our time in Shanghai was restricted to the dockside and the route to
the airport , but it did permit some glimpses down side streets to see some of the old houses all with the washing hanging out into the
streets. But modern highways are definitely present which is just as well because even though it was Sunday cars were bumper to
bumper proving that the motor car has most definitely come to China. This was most definitely endorsed when we arrived in Beijing, and
whereas we found Shanghai dusty and gritty, Beijing is shiny and clean, also bustling with construction (some going 24/7) but most
definitely ready to host the Olympic Games in August. If our hotel the Great Wall Sheraton is a sample of the hotels that have been
specifically built for Olympic visitors, they are going to have a great stay!
Shanghai, the second largest city in China is a bustling port, with modern buildings
either side of the river, which regretfully one was unable to clearly see the beautiful
architecture in detail due to the thick smog (one could smell the sulphur when
outside.) Along the riverside and throughout the city as we travelled to the airport there
was a hive of construction activity going on, especially along the riverside where we
were docked. In fact getting off the ship and on to the buses that were parked just off
the gangway we were playing chicken with a host of different heavy duty equipment,
container trucks and a variety of vans and cars, all trying to be controlled by one
policeman with a whistle!!! It wasn't until we were halfway to the airport that we
suddenly realized it was Sunday yet construction sites were in full gear. We learnt
Day 5 - Bejing
03.03.08
Chinese Revolution Museum
Tourists of all nationalities are represented and the Chinese people are welcoming and very friendly with a vast number being able to
speak English. The expected military were less than visible. Present but mostly just guarding certain spots like the Queen's troops in
their busbies. After lunch we continued to the Temple of Heaven and especially the Hall of Prayer for a Good Harvest. It was here that
one came across a wonderful bonus. In order to reach the Hall we had to walk down the The Long Corridor, this has become a daily
gathering place for the local people. We were met by two women dancing with huge ribbons, then all down the corridor people were
playing cards, musical instruments, chess, ballroom dancing, singing opera, playing jacki sack, various racket games and all totally
spontaneous. You came across a group singing a song you like you joined in, you liked a song a particular singer was singing you got
up and danced. You want to see and meet great Chinese people this is a place to go. But what a perfect way to end a day in Beijing.
Our very memorable day started with Tainan men Square. To stand where in '89 the
students had their headquarters at the Monument of the Peoples Heroes and where
the  young man faced down the tank were emotional moments for Sue and she even
located the building that filmed the standoff. Then it was off to the Forbidden City via
the archway at the Museum of the Chinese Revolution and of course walking under
that huge portrait of Chairman Mao (who would have ever thought!). Three hours of
walking when weeks are needed to even begin to see all that is there and to absorb
the history associated with this great complex. A re-visit to the movie of "The Last
Emperor" is certainly a must. As with all stops, vendors are ready to see you anything
and everything from postcards and guide books to (thankfully for a number of our tour
suffering from the cold temperature) knock offs of the Chinese Army's winter hats!
Day 54 - Great Wall & Ming Tombs
04.03.08
Great Wall of China
and lots of local stalls but some with some amazing slate carvers at work. After lunch and a wander around the Jade factory and ones
mouth watering at some of the work we visited the area of the Ming Tombs (a cemetary for 13 Emporers covering 80 square kilometers)
starting witha gentle walk down the Sacred Way and its 24 huge animal and 12 chinese official marble carvings.  We then visited the
tomb of the 3rd Emporer, Emporer Yongle, which had some artifacts including intricate gold crowns from the tomb of Ding Ling (this is
the only Ming tomb to have ever been excavated.) On our return to the hotel we passed many of the Olympic sites. So much is completed
it was almost like being there in August. Wait until you see the "Birds Nest" (Main Stadium), the Bubble (swimming venue) and the
media complex three towers with no outside windows on TV.
The day so many on the tour had been waiting for, to see the Great Wall of China. We
drove along a very moder highway (very similar to german Autobahns) to Badulong
part of the Wall which was easier to walk on than others, but still up and down
mountainsides. An impressive engineering feat, especially when you consider even
the youngest parts date back to 1644. Even though it was supposedly an easier part to
climb it was still a good workout for the knees and the neck which is constant motion.
Sue made it up to tower three which was one of the steepest parts inthis secion, but
what a view! Huge narrow archways took the wall over trade routes and todays roads,
how the buses made it through was anyones guess, but as a pedestrian you certainly
looked both ways more than once before you ventured through. Like most venues lots
Day 55 - Hong Kong & back onboard
05.03.08
One of the 2 new bridges
This day was mostly spent traveling from Beijing to Hong Kong and we were very
surprised to find out that it was an International flight and that we had to clear Hong
Kong Immigration. We later learnt that part of the agreement in returning Hong Kong to
China was that it should be allowed to continue with it's capitalist system for a further
20 years. Air Canada could take lessons from China Air & Dragon Air, a snack or meal
on every flight and two rounds of cold or hot drinks FREE and attentive service, even
though some of these flights were under an hour! Lunch dessert on this International
flight into Hong Kong was Hagan Daz ice cream. We landed at the new airport on
Lantern Island (no more flying between high rises to land) and had a long drive to
Kowloon Harbour where the ship was a welcome site but not enough of the day left to
see Hong Kong proper. A brief rest then up to the open deck to watch the most amazing light show put on by all the buildings around
the harbour as mooring lines were released and the ship began its course down the coast to Saigon. Next two (needed) days at sea.
Day 58 - Start of Cambodia Overland Tour
08.03.08
The night before we reached Saigon the sea was literally "littered" with small fishing
vessels all with small lights on, so the sea looked like it was decorated with fairy
lights, quite magical. To reach Saigon meant a four hour sail up the winding Saigon
River with a pilot onboard. Not too sure what we expected Saigon to look like but
certainly not the bustling, very industrial port that it turned out to be. There was every
conceivable type of craft ploughing the tidal river taking advantage of the swift tidal
currents. Regretfully due to Sue departing in the afternoon for the Angkor Wat overland
tour we did not get to tour the city. But Sue did get a glimpse on her way to the airport,
sufficient to know that while China is the land of cars Vietnam is the land of scooters
(small motorbikes). The best way to cross the road was said to be to close your eys
Scooters everywhere
Day 59 - Angkor Wat & surrounding temple sites
09.03.08
Angkor Wat
kind of what one would expect in a Buddhist temple. We left the temple from another exit in order to transfer to smaller bus because of
the small gates at another famous complex Angkor Thom. This temple is where one gets a full understanding that by saying temple you
do not mean one building, it is a complex made up of many buildings, in this case we stopped briefly at the Leper King, Terrace of
Elephants, Buffoon and Baton well known for its multiple faces around its many structures. There was also a huge golden Buddha very
much in use by the local population. Then it was back on the mini bus for the squeeze through the south gate to our regular bus and
back to our hotel for a fabulous buffet lunch before returning to the "park". It must be mentioned at this point that while driving around the
park one understood why people had been telling us why the roads in Cambodia were so bad and why it took so long to drive anywhere!
Sam our guide advised us that is why the Cambodians are so good at Karaoke! Thank heavens the main roads are no longer like that.    
   
Well they say you should save the best to last and that is most certainly what our last two temples were. The first we visited was Ta
Prohm just totally unbelievable as to how the trees have grown up through, around into the most impossible cracks and crevices.
Thankfully the temple is being preserved while allowing some of these incredible trees to remain. This temple is also responsible for
giving the Cambodian tourism a huge boost because this is where the movie Lara Croft Tomb Raider was filmed. The people talk about
Angelina Joli (sp) with great enthusiasm. The next stop there is was the huge man made moat and the huge complex of Angkor Wat,
what was also huge were the number of your buses and tourists, the walkway over the moat was bumper to bumper with people.
Thanks to our guide Sammy we took a route that for the most part kept us out of the way of the maddening crowd, and yes we made it all
the way to the innermost very tall three towers. However to go up and inside these three towers is no longer possible as there had been
too many accidents on the very very steep and very very narrow steps leading into the three towers. A great amount of work is now being
done to preserve this UNESCO heritage site. The Germans are working on preserving the inner temple and thanks to the Japanese the
moat that had become totally choked with weeds and grasses has been fully restored. International help is very evident throughout the
park as notice boards advise which countries are helping like the Swiss with Preah Khan, but perhaps one of the most prolific and most
encouraging are the well projects. Throughout the park are many many small villages (already in existence when the park perimeter
was established ) where you see a water pump for approximately every four houses with a notice advising who and from what country
had made this possible. After our two hour trek around Angkor Wat (and barely scratching the surface of its treasures) it was back to the
hotel for a refreshing shower and small rest, although some did make it to the local market to pick up a few more treasures they missed
at the many vendors at the temples. Our supper buffet was set up around a candle lit swimming pool which had a backdrop of two huge
floodlit waterfalls between which we discovered was a stage. For a full hour we were entertained to some of the beautiful traditional
Cambodian dances, what a way to end a most incredible day.
The day to visit Angkor Wat, but not before we visited four other temples. A kind of
National Park has been established around Angkor Wat and within this park are some
200 temples! The park is administered by a private company and one can visit all
these sites with just one entry ticket which has a photo ID and shown at numerous
entry points. Our first temple was Banteay Srei, or known as the pink temple as it has
been built out of sandstone. Here restoration work is well underway as just outside
the walls are hundreds and hundreds of stones all with numbers on as to where they
belong.  Our next temple was Preah Khan, this seemed to have a lot more standing,
but regretfully evidence of looters as several of the big statues had their heads
missing as we gathered from our guide this are collectors items. We took a winding
path through this temple which permitted a peaceful atmosphere, all one could hear
were the birds calling to one another and the huge racket kicked up by the cicadas,
Day 60 - Phnom Penn & return to ship
10.03.08
and just go ahead, because the riders know only too well how to dodge things!!!! Just like Saigon it would appear tha Cambodia is also
a country of scooters ineveryshape and form. However Cambodia is a country that is proudly emerging from a horrific era where is saw
its population go from 15 million to just 4 at the end of the dreadful war that saw it's brightes and best erradicated. Today the population
is back up at 11 million but still short on many trained personell such as teachers, so much so that one age group of children go to
school in the mornings and another age group in the afternoons. But are things are changing, in Siem Rep, the road we took from the
airport is brand new and the main national highway to Phenom Pen. Three years ago this road had nothing now it has over 20 upscale
hotels and other vibrant businesses around the including a national museum that opened just two weeks ago. We were greeted at the
Sokha Hotel as if we were royalty, with everyone bowing a greeting, having been given room keys we were given refreshing cold
facecloths, followed by a most refreshing mint drink and presented with a silk scarf. The rooms as well as the foord and service were
out of this world. If one could award a 6th star they deserved it. But as we were to find out this is the kind of service that is emerging in
numerous areas of Cambodia
The Royal Palace
small garden made up of four fish ponds full of coy, most tranquil. A quick stop at the huge Independent Monument then lunch at Raffles
(nothing but the best for us) and onto the buses for the long drive to the ship. While the drive was long it did allow us to get a view of the
local countryside and the various types of farming that went on either side of the small mountain ranges. The one thing that did become
apparent very quickly was the clean and pristine streets of the two cities did not continue out into the countryside. The large ditches that
ran either side on the main thankfully modern highway were strewn with garbage, the cattle for the most part were just roaming around
along the side of the road. We were made to understand that this was one of the main hazards of driving, but not as bad as meeting the
odd water buffalo who had no road sense at all which apparently the cattle did! One of the other areas we got to see were the many
varieties of transportation and the very incredible way these people got to use every inch of it as possible cramming goods and people
in ways which one would have thought impossible. To me the most fascinating of all was when our guide pointed out the home made
truck complete with a plastic lawn chair as the driving seat! However he went on to explain just how diverse the diesel engine of this
vehicle was. That it would be pulled from the truck to be used as a pump to pump water for irrigation, would be used to help thrash the
rice, to be used to power a motorized saw when cutting lumber for homes, as a generator plus several other uses. So that a relatively
cheap Chinese motor would be so useful for a small community as everyone helps everyone else. Despite what one saw as abject
poverty in the rural areas one also saw a very happy population smiling and waving as we drove through the small towns and villages,
all built for the most part on "stilts" because of the huge rainy season which will be starting soon, sending a lot of the people from the
city back to the rural areas to assist with the farming as tourism and construction will come to a halt.
The port we discovered is only just emerging from and industrial blue collar town to one catering to tourists, so at the present time it's
biggest pull is the wonderful beaches, an attraction for the Cambodian people as well who flock there on weekends. Internet cafés are
present as are good barber shops but the tourist type shops one expects in a tourist are only just emerging. So ended our short but
wonderful and enlightening visit to Cambodia.
A very early start to the day as we flew to Phnom Penh to meet our buses for the 4 hour
drive to the port of Sihanoukville to meet the ship, but not before a stop at the Royal
Palace. Thankfully the complex survived the war and the King is now  back on the
throne, but very much like the British Monarchy is a figure head residing there, and all
Heads of State and other foreign dignitaries get greeted and sometimes get to stay in
this very ornate palace. One of the buildings has a balcony from which the King would
mount his elephant, regretfully the Royal elephants were some things that did not
survive the war.  A trip to the National museum made one realize the effort being made
to preserve some of the artifacts from the many temples, once again thanks to
International help this building is in existence as in 1995 the Australian Government  
totally rebuilt the very ornate roof of this complex. In its centre is the most beautiful
Day 62 - Bangkok, Thailand
12.03.08
Our first of three stops in Thailand was to the capital city Bangkok, but due to a crane
mishap at the main port we got to see a great amount of the local countryside on our 2
hour bus ride into the main city. The first thing we saw was fields and fields of Tapioca
growing and one of their main exports as it is used not only in the culinary field in
many areas not only pudding but it also gets used in the industrial field as well for
such things as coating paper to allow the ink to stick and the glue that is used in
plywood! to name just 2 uses of hundreds. Then as we got further in where the soil
was not as good there were commercial fish & salt ponds. We soon new when we
were in to the city as traffic was bumper to bumper just like the people touring the
Royal Palace! An incredible complex of temples, royal offices & official meeting rooms.
Road to the Royal Palace
It is beyond comprehension as to how this complex of such ornate buildings wascompleted in just 2 years. Just as with other
complexes we really only just got a glimpse, but we did get to see the famous emeralds Buddha, which in fact is jade and much much
smaller than imagined. It is very obvious that the nation loves it's King who is 81. There was a huge national celebration for his 80th
birthday, but most recently his sister had passed away so we saw local Tibetans coming to pay their respects at the palace, dressed in
black, carrying lotus blossoms and praying at the shrine outside and to the Buddha inside. Fortunately the palace complex was no
where near as large as the one in Phnom Penh as the temperature reached 35oC! and the walk  to the boat dock was short and the
river trip was refreshing and cooling passing many very interesting buildings and provided a glimpse of riverside living (very diversified)
ending up at the Menman Riverside Hotel for a magnificent lunch and floor show of Thai cultural dances. Our final stop was to an
artisans "co-op" where they had crafts people working on some jewelery. The Government is providing free craftsmanship training to
people in the rural areas in an effort to stop them from coming into the city's for employment when the growing season is over. In turn
they bring their products into the cities and sell them at certified outlets like the one we visited. Some of the workmanship was totally
amazing. Then it was time to hit the road and get out of the city before the city became a logjam of traffic, the Thai people nick name it the
longest parking lot in the world. We certainly timed it right because we made the return trip in just over an hour an a half!
Day 63 - Ko Samui, Thialand
13.03.08
Big Gaun-Im
monkey, the trainer has a shower so does the monkey! The monkey picks the coconuts by shimming up the tree and spinning the
coconuts so they detachfrom the tree and fall to the ground. Some of the monkeys know the ripe one by listening to the "sloosh" of the
milk inside others pick them following the instructions of the handler. A monkey can pick up to 1,000 coconuts a day, but not everyday
due to the growing seasons. He works from 8am to about 5pm but usually only up to about the age of ten when he is retired as he
begins to slow down. The monkey then becomes part of the family household as the average age of a monkey is 30. Apparently Ko
Samui has the main monkey school for Thailand, where they can also be trained to pick different types of fruit. Boy the things you learn!
Our second of three Thailand stops was just a very short afternoon and once again
a very rough and long tender ride to reach the shore The island of Ko Samui once
very agricultural is becoming very tourist orientated as people are now coming here
feeling that is safer  than to the west coast that suffered that devastating tsunami a
few years ago. We saw some of the biggest Bhudest images every imaginable, but
the most interesting visit of all was to the coconut grove to see the monkeys
harvesting the coconuts. Apparently the monkeys need to go to monkey school
when they are about the age of 1, school on average lasts 6 months and only the
males go as the females do not have the strength. Once a monkey is trained he
lives side by side with his handler, what the trainer eats for his meals so does the
Day 65 - Singapore
15.03.08
The famous Raffles Hotel
some of this great city is to take a ride in the gondolas, in fact one section practically passed right over where we were moored. One of
the otherfascinating modes of travel was the mono rail with it's brightly coloured carriages. At various sites all over Singapore you will
find huge stone Merlions, these are the symbol of Singapore's tourism, the top half is a lion and the bottom half is a mermaid. We
moored at the City's Cruise Centre which was home not only for cruise ships but a number of the local ferries that run to a number of
the outlying islands. Fortunately it also had a huge shopping mall that had just about everything one needed, so a lot of stocking up on
a number of items was done by the passengers including a few haircuts. One of the more popular locations was Starbucks because it
had free WiFi, yest that's how we got the site update while enjoying a Latte. Yet again not enough time to take in all the venues we
would of liked and another stop to go on the re-visit list. Leaving was kind of magical as it was just getting dark and all the lights in the
huge oil refineries looked like fairylights on a Christmas tree.
How to describe Singapore (the very little we got to see)? It is a bustling city similar to
Hong Kong but nowhere near as cramped. Beautiful high rises blend in with the old.
Of course one of the famous old buildings is Raffles Hotel where the Singapore
Sling was invented. Commerce thrives in every conceivable aspect because like
Hong Kong Singapore is duty free for shopping. It also has a very thriving China
Town and some really beautiful temples, both Buddhist and Hindu. Two of the most
popular areas are the botanical gardens with over 12,000 orchids and the Jurong
Bird Park set in 50 acres has over 5,000 from 450 different species, not only a
nocturnal birdhouse but a walk-through open-air aviary. One of the great ways to see
Day 67 - Phuket, Thailand
17.03.08
Ploughing a rice paddy
"farmers" market selling all types of wonderfully fresh produce. Many small stalls andshops were also open selling anything and
everything to the many people rushing around on scooters with sometimes as many as five people onboard. A couple of garden
centres had the most wonderful shrubs, trees and flowers with the most colourful blooms you could imagine. Our Island Safari was a
wonderful experience, while the company is not new it had built a new location as the buildings at the previous location were getting
old and in need of repair. The current location had only been open three months but talk about well run and well thought out, one did
not have to walk very far to each venue. We started off with a short Ox-cart ride, then just a short walk took us to a location where we
could sit on a water buffalo, then right next door we were treated to a Thia cooking demonstration of how to make a Thai salad which
was hands on for four volunteers and was it ever mmmmmm good. Then we only had to turn 180o for a demonstration on rice growing
starting with ploughing the rice paddy to planting and thinning the rice right through to the threshing and winnowing.  Next was a short
walk making sure we did not get run over by the Ox carts to see the tapping of a rubber tree and hot the sap got turned into "sheets" to
be sold to corporations. Then up a steep slope (golf cart on hand for those with walking difficulties) to see three elephants perform a
variety of feats from slam dunking a basket ball to giving volunteers a massage. Then it was off to have a long elephant ride. All  this
activity was done in the space of three hours at not once were we ever made to feel rushed. It was also possible to purchase photo
memories of ones visit as at all the venues photographers had been at work and these beautifully framed photographs were ready as
one left. On leaving the park there was a beautiful thatched house you could visit to see how a tradition Thai family lived as well as the
elephant Buddha which had the daily offering of milk and bananas to ensure happiness and prosperity to the park.  On our way back to
the ship we stopped at a Phuket craftsman's "co-op" two large floors with everything from jewellery, silk, pewter to local chocolates and
handmade beauty soaps. As we returned to the ship there was time to browse the many vendors who had set up alongside mainly
with the beautiful embroidered shirts, skirts and dresses. Some of which were seen at the next formal dining night. Just before the
ship left harbour we had a beautiful sight as an eagle flew and hovered right over our balcony.
Our third and final stop in Thailand was to the beautiful Island of Phuket. One can
understand as to how this has become a main tourist stop with it's many beautiful
beaches as well as a launch site to some of the smaller and similarly beautiful
islands. Most people came to hear of the Island in 2004 when the disastrous  
tsunami hit the west coast where two of the most densely tourism areas are. The
first being Patong where 10,000 lives were lost and the second Bang Tao beach
where 7,000 were lost. While we did not visit that area we were advised that for the
most part things are nearly back to normal except for the large boat which got taken 2
miles inshore and will never be able to be taken back to the shore. As we traveld
through the local countryside to visit the Island Safari Park we passed by a great
Day 71 - Cochin, India
21.03.08
A Chinese Fishing Net
(another set could be seen on the island of Vipin across the river.) These nets are totally fascinating and built on a cantilever system
that takes five men to operate. However there was no fishing for two reasons, one it was low tide and the other Good Friday, but there
was most definitely all types of fresh fish available from the stalls set up along the adjacent sidewalk. The first church ever built in India  
(1500) is St Francis Church and where Vasco de Gama was laid to rest here in 1524. As it was Good Friday a service was in progress
and the singing was really beautiful. If there is a beautiful Anglican church around there has to be a catholic one! and sure enough a
few zig zaggy streets later we came to the huge and beautiful Santa Cruze Catholic Basilica, built in 1505, which has a very active
convent adjacent to it. But religious establishments did not end there, as the city has been a major sea port and trading centre since
before the days of the Roman Empire, the harbour has welcomed Phoenician, Greek, Jewish, Portuguese, Chinese, Dutch & British
ships. So besides the two churches there was also a Jewish Synagogue dating from 1568, a beautiful Hindu temple which
unfortunately one could not enter. However we did come across a local Hindu festival going on where the male Hindus had a long
"wire" pierced through their tongues and danced down the local streets behind an Indian band. Not everyone's cup of tea it would
appear including the Tuk Tuk driver's!!!!, but none the less very interesting to see a local custom. A stop at one of the many craft
emporiums was totally fascinating, one could have bought anything from authentic Indian furniture and rugs (they would ship) through
musical instruments to beautifully packaged spices and offered a beautiful cup of spiced tea while one browsed. Oh and of course
there was the most magnificent jewellery. As one drove around this wonderful maze of little roads you got to see the locals in many
styles of dress, Hari Chrisna followers in their robes, a lot of the men in the traditional dhotis, the women in beautiful saris and most
wearing sandals or flip flops on their feet. Also wandering around were a large number of goats having a great time nibbling on the vast
number of posters plastered around, at one point we past a cow sound asleep in the porch of a closed store! All too soon my three
hours were up (actually it was closer to four) and time to return to the ship by the very narrow British built bridge which now only Tuk
Tuks, bikes, scooters and pedestrians can access and passed by the beautifully painted fishing boats tied up either side. Arriving back
at the ship somewhat wet, as it had rained for most of the tour but had in no way dampened the terrific time had exploring this
wonderful part of Cochin.
Today was a day when disaster turned into pay dirt. Of no fault of the ship the Taj
Mahal tour got totally watered down, so much so that Sue cancelled. Now what to
do in Cochin? Discovering that Tuk Tuk's were only $5(US) for three hours Sue
hopped into one and delved into "old" Cochin. Well what a fabulous tour that
provided a real feel for "regular" India. In fact Cochin is actually made up of a cluster
of towns and islands all linked by ferries and bridges. The most historic part is Fort
Kochi & Mattancherry which is where we headed. It is a total maze of small streets
all of which the terrific driver and tour guide knew only too well. Once he knew
visiting museums was not on the itinerary, but seeing historical buildings and
photographing this wonderful area were, we were off and buzzing around this very
vibrant area. One of the most intereating areas was to the Chinese fishing nets at
the very tip of the island at the mouth of the river where it met the Arabian Sea,
Day 73 - Mumbai (Bombay), India
23.03.08
The Magnificent Taj Hotel
"booths" and line upon line of drying. An overall look one can see where certain areas specialize in certain articles, like one area had
nothing but trousers, another nothing but shirts. Seeing so many of each left one with the question as to how they knew what belonged
to whom! Then it was down to Marine Drive with its magnificent beach and promenade, which usually is bumper to bumper with traffic
but being a Sunday and on top of that Easter there was very little traffic. The affluent financial district with it's tall high rises could not be
missed from here. Regretfully what else could not be missed travelling around the city was abject poverty, small little ramshackle
shacks alongside most streets which I learnt from my driver could house as many as ten people! So to go from seeing that to the
incredibly ornate and very affluent Taj Hotel was as if you were in two different countries. The Taj having stately turbaned doorman  
opening the car doors for guests to some of the most ornate (& expensive) diningrooms going, yet not 100 yards away on the harbour
front side street were local street vendors eking out a living selling cold fresh water, freshly roasted nuts or cool lime juice made in
front of your eyes. Also here was the famous Gateway of India, regretfully undergoing some repairs as half of it had scaffolding and
tarps over it. None the less one realized just how big this arch is, looks very much like London's Marble Arch, but the closest road is
over a hundred yards away. Due to it being fenced off for the renovations the number of vendors were less than normal and no snake
charmers, none the less this area was a hive of activity  not only with the many roaming vendors wishing to sell you anything from giant
balloons, peacock feather fans to the usual postcards, but also with the many people taking the various ferries or harbour tours that
left from just in front of the Gateway. It was while taking photographs of the food vendors on the harbour front that I came across a
Mardis Gras kind of procession making it's way towards the Gate. It was not until the procession stopped at a side entrance to the Taj
did I realize that I had been following and photographing not a religious parade but a wedding parade! Shortly after the parade
stopped, the most beautiful floral decorated car (do not know how the driver saw to drive) drew up and the groom wearing a very
decorative gold veil stepped out, joined the dancing for a bit while father passed out money to the assembled crowd, then entered the
hotel for the actual wedding. Needles to say yet another bonus. As the temperature was now getting beyond tolerance level it was time
to return to the dockyard and the wonderfully air conditioned terminal building where we hit a shopping bonanza at the number of small
vendors who were set up. That evening we were given a terrific show onboard of several traditional Indian dances with their very ornate
costumes and so ended our interesting and eye opening stops in India.  
HAPPY EASTER from Mubai, (or Bombay as most people still call it,) who would
have ever thought? Not having booked a tour but having one or two places on the
MUST SEE list a local taxi was found seeing as there were no Tuk Tuk's in the city.
Well once again lucked in with the driver and en route to the famous Dhobi Ghat
pointed out and stopped for photo opportunities of some of the other very famous
landmarks. It is not difficult to see the British architectural influence in some of the
major landmarks. The main Victoria Station has much of the same architectural
design as does St. Pancras Station in London. Other buildings have some of the
basic British designs but have incorporated a lot of the domes and intricate Indian
art work all making for a very fascinating city building wise. The first major stop was  
the Dhobi Ghat,a huge outdoor laundry operating from sun up to sun down 365 days
a year and absolutely everything is done by hand in small concrete partitioned
Day 77
03.04.08
Well we thought we saw mega construction going on in Bejing and Shanghai, it is
nothing compared to what is going on in Dubai! Depending on whom you spoke
with there can be anywhere from 16 to 27% of the worlds biggest cranes working
here. I think Texas has been replaced for boasting as having the biggest this and
the biggest that...here is a rundown of the Biggest in the world that is under
construction. The worlds tallest building, final number of floors is a state secret, the
worlds largest airport having six runways, the largest airline with 15 jumbo jets on
order and 5 being delivered this year. A theme park known as Dubailand where you
will be able to visit exact replicas of the Eiffel Tower (only slightly larger), a section of
the Great Wall of China and the Pyramids (might be a problem here as the
Egyptians are trying to invoke copyrights!)  We visited (only because our tour had a
high tea reservation) the fascinating Burj Al Arab Hotel built in the shape of a
towering sail. Right now this hotel can boast being theworld's tallest and most
luxurious hotel and I would have to say the most access  controlled as it can only be
Cranes, Cranes, Cranes
Day 84 - Safaga, Egypt
Day 77 - Dubai
reach by a small causeway that has a controlled barrier at the street end and no access from the sea. We were greeted by staff carrying
cold face cloths and a tray of the freshest dates you could ever imagine. The most fascinating construction going on at the present time
are the three man made Island developments known as The Palms which will expand Dubai's coastline by 1000 miles and
accomodate an addittional 1.75 million people. Palm one is probably half completed with people already living in the apartment
buildings along the "trunk" and someof the villas along the "fronds". A trip to the Palm sales office to view the 3D model of the project
enabled one to get a full comprehension on the final project as well as understand all the construction for Palm 2 that we passed on
our way to mooring at the Cruise Terminal.  One of the surprises at the sales office was a totally separate room for the Atlantis Hotel
which is being constructed at the apex of Palm one, yet again a scale model was set up complete with the mono rail that will run from
the centre of the city through the Island to the hotel (that construction one could see everywhere we drove through the city.) Later on in
the day our bus took us along the "trunk" and we saw the beautifully completed apartment buildings, then when we went on the large
catamaran cruise around palm one we got to see some of the villas on some of the fronds (only $5.4 million each!) and the Atlantis
Hotel which is probably two thirds completed. Construction in Dubai happens fast (1 year for a 50 story office complex) because they
work 24/7 on all the projects, having 2 shifts. Most of the construction workers come from India, Sri Lanka & Africa, only 20% of the
population are native Dubian's and since oil was discovered no more imigration only work permits. Interestingly enough oil does not
feature in the top 4 causes of economic growth, they are Real Estate, Transportation, Banking/Insurance & Tourism. In fact Dubai's oil
will probably runout in another 10 years which is why the big push is going on to establish other economic areas and it is most certainly
happening.  While Dubai is obviously a very Muslim country and somewhat restrictive on woman by European standards it is none the
less a very ethnically diverse country due to the influx of workers from all over the world. While we were warned not to wear shorts or
singlets except in hotels and on the beach one found people dressed as such all over the place. It is also a very crime free country and
heaven help anyone who crosses the line, heavy fines and a quick boot out of the country or lost in the jail system unless you have a
contact with money. But people and companies are flocking here, all the major media outlets are located in one part of the city, as are
the high tech industries, big name stores located in a mall that has an indoor ski hill complete with chair lift and makes 30 tons of snow
per day. The country also has some magnificent beaches and swimming areas. Perhaps the only down side is all the dust from so
much construction which is not helped by the sand storms that blow in from the desert every so often. Other passengers on the cruise
got to visit some of the older areas of the city which have some of the small markets including a fascinating spice market. So there is
most definitly something for all but I do not think any of us were buying any holdiay homes!
27.03.08
Avenue of Ram headed Sphinxes
feeling like royalty.! The locals do not mind as everyone knows tourism is the #1  source of revenue, the second being the Suez Canal
which generates $7 million per day. We passed from the mountainous area into pure desert, part of the Sahara. Our luck was really
holding as not only did we pass some Bedouin (very few left now) moving their animals, but also a huge camel train en route from a
camel market at a nearby town. We were then into the very fertile area made possible by irrigation from specifically dug canals. The
fields are all small but owned by the farmers who grow Sugar Cane, garlic, kale (mostly for the animals), wheat, and a whole range of
root vegetables. As the fields are so small the majority of farming is done by hand. I don't think we have ever seen so many donkeys! Our
first stop was the temple of Karnak which we entered via an avenue of beautiful ram-headed Sphinxes all a bit of a crush as at least 60
buses arrived at once. Hilariously enough this crush of people did not phase a mother dog who lay feeding a single pup amidst this
melee of human feet! The most spectacular of all is the Hypostyle Hall with it's famous 134 ornate columns most  with the beams still in
place on top. Thanks to our guide's perfect knowledge of the temple he took us through a route that was away from the maddening
crowd! There are still two practically perfect obelisks complete with hieroglyphics, as well as two huge statues at the entrance to the first
courtyard. Amazing to think that all this was built 1570 BC!  After lunch at one of the many 5 star hotels that are being built in Luxor, we
were off to the Valley of the Kings where to date 63 magnificent tombs have been discovered including the most famous of all
Tutankhamun. There was only time to visit 2 Ramesses IV and Ramesses IX. It really is amazing the artwork and vibrant colours that
adorn every inch of wall and ceiling in them. One downside is that no photographing is allowed in the tombs (understandably) so can't
post any to the site and photo's showing the entrances to the tombs is so non discript you would have to question why so much oohing
and ahing over the tombs. Our next stop was just a photo stop at the magnificent Temple of Hatchepsut  (Egypt's only female pharaoh)
with it's brilliant white terraces. Next door the Temple of Padineith was being worked on, here they discovered that modern houses had
been built on top of it! This was the case down the road where after relocating the occupants of 600 houses they were discovering
complete tombs, over 130 to date.  At the temple Amenhotep III are two huge immense statues known as the Colossi of Memnon, it is
amazing how intact they are considering there is so little of the temple left. Back over the beautiful river Nile (yes it really is blue) to Luxor
for our final temple visit that of Luxor itself. A lot of restoration work has been done here, but perhaps one of the most exciting is the
recent discovery of the avenue of Human headed Sphinxes which they now know used to connect the temple to the one at Karnak. The
hope is to fully restore this 3km avenue however there is the problem of houses and a mosque built on top of some of it.! Inside the
temple there is a wall on top of which you can clearly see where a mosque has been built on top! At the entrance to this temple are three
beautiful statues and a pylon. There should be another however it is now situated in France on the Champs d' Elysee. So our jammed
packed day came to an end with another 3 hour trip back to the ship in yet another huge convoy.
Well thankfully we never encountered any pirates in our transit from the Indian Ocean
to the Red Sea and arrived safely at the port of Safaga in Egypt. The first thing you
notice when arriving in Safaga are the high red mountains in the background against
the mainly white buildings of the town. We passed through these mountains en route
to Luxor, a 15 hour tour day! The drive to Luxor was about 3.5 hours, travelling in a
security escorted convoy which was estimated to have over 100 motor coaches, mini
vans & some cars. Security in Egypt is very tight with frequent check points & three
types of police, nation (brown uniforms), tourist (navy uniforms), municipal (traditional
dress). The convoy was given priority all the way, traffic on the road had to pull over,
everything was stopped at every intersection until the complete convoy had gone
through! which obviously did not bother the locals at all. Talk about
Days 85 & 86 - Gulf of Suez & Suez Canal
04 & 05.04.08
One of the many gulf Oil Rigs
level. Secondly where the Panama had lush vegetation both sides the Suez was desert, especially on the Sinai side. But perhaps the
most dramatic was the security, observation posts both sides every kilometer. Sometimes these would just be lookout posts other
times fully manned compounds, often including their own mosques. On the banks of the African side were sections of Bailey bridges
ready to launch at a moments notice. The Egyptians are never going to be caught napping like they were when Israel took the Sinai. On
the African side we would pass by towns and on the  Bitter Lakes resorts are being established. But there is activity on the Sinai side,
especially oil so every so often we would come across ferry landings for the tanker trucks, with the ferries making a huge dash between
the ships in the convoy. We found out several things after our transit, that Egypt uses all of its oil internally, in fact even has to import
some of it! That there are three convoys a day through the Suez , (2 going from Suez to Port Said and one the other way) we lucked in on
a daytime convoy rather than the nighttime one. Two other interesting points on the canal was firstly a swing bridge for the train, built
only ten years ago and the second was a canal under the Suez allowing water from the Nile to go over to the Sinai for irrigation. It took
about ten hours  to transit the canal's 101 miles.
Two days were taken to get from Safaga to Port Said going through the Gulf of Suez
and of course the Suez Canal. The Gulf of Suez  being very narrow enabled one to
see two continents at a time. The Asian one on the starboard side and the African on
the port (sailing north), something that does not happen too often.  Both coasts have
oil rigs along them, so many that at no time are you without one in view. Also due to
the narrowness we had a lot of ships very close by, which at times was pretty
dramatic as the waves were fairly high that day. We passed one cruise ship a lot
smaller than us that was tossing around like a cork, then a large oil tanker passed
us with waves crashing dramatically over it's bow.
The Suez canal was nothing like the Panama for a number of reasons, first of all no
lock gates as the Med. and the Gulf of Suez are for the most part at the same sea
Day 87 - Port Said, Egypt
06.04.08
Sphinx through the sand storm
blocks, each weighing 2.5 tons and not a drop of mortar!  It seemed that no sooner had we got out of the bus for a walk around and to
view the other two the Pyramids of Chephren & Mycerinus than a sand storm blew in. By the time we drove up to the look out point which
allows you to see the three Great Pyramids and the six smaller ones you could not see a thing!!! There is a gully just below the lookout
and one could just about see three brave soles riding horses and a donkey cart, it really did look like a scene out of Lawrence of
|Arabia! The whole city and beyond became blanketed as the day went on. If this was a small sand storm I would hate to be in a big
one. Fortunately when we went down to the Sphinx just a few kilometers away the visility was not too bad and we managed to get a
good view. But an hour later it was most definitely time to leave sand was getting into everything. After a quick stop at the designated
store for anything Egyptian it was time for lunch and what an impressive setup we were taken to, The Pharrohs. Two delightful 2 floor
floating restaurants all designed outside and in Egyptian style. A delightful buffet lunch was served complete with entertainment of a
belly dancer (even if she did come from Scotland!) and a gentleman doing a very colourful traditional dance. Then it was back on the
road for our 3 hour trip back and interestingly enough not only passing a huge Canadian flag flying at the Four Seasons Hotel but also
and extension of the Cape Breton University that has been set up here. Who would have thought.
A three hour bus drive from Port Said to Cairo to see the Pyramids, Sphinx  & lunch
on the Nile. Like Safaga we went in a convoy however this time traffic did not come to
a griding halt to let us through, was just an impossible task in Cairo as traffic is a
nightmare. In fact Cairo is a nightmare, especially around the ring road which they
built to ease traffic congestion! The ring road was built through the agricultural area
of Cairo a lot of farmers seeing a way to make a quick buck or two either sold their
land to developers or built unauthorised apartment buildings. The end result is a
whole pile of illegal ghettos that still have some agricultural land around them and
even more traffic chaos!  When looking at pictures of  the Pyramids one gets the
impression that they are way out in the desert, wrong; they are right there on the
edge of the city, we turned a corner and their they were! First the largest of the three
is the Great Pyramid of Cheops covering 13 acres, built of 2,300,000 limestone
Day 89 - Athens
08.04.08
The Acropolis
uniforms. Lunch was at "The Ancient Tastes Restaurant" a building dating back to 1920 and where the dishes are prepared from
recipes discovered from Roman times, quite delicious even though we only got to use a knife and spoon, no forks in Roman times!
The day finished off in the Plaka, Athens's famous shopping district, where the streets are still cobbled and lined with small shops and
further down turns into a true flea market with everything from tubas to old cameras to be bartered for. What is even more amazing
there are a number of old churches as well as ruins scattered amongst these streets! Adding to the atmosphere were the variety of
street vendors from a really old organ grinder to a mime who would come to life when you dropped money in the box. One could have
bought many beautiful items with two exceptions, first and foremost packing it and the second everything was so expensive $7.50 for a
cup of coffee! Regretfully Greece has suffered very badly from switching to the Euro as they have seen 30% inflation in 2 years (as have
Spain and Italy) yet salaries have only increased by about 3.5%. They have a 9.5% unemployment rate which is nowhere near as bad
as it was just after the Olympics when is went as high as 16%! People used to own their own apartments now they are lucky if they can
afford some of the rents being charged!, a shame for a country that was so vibrant and strong not so long ago.
This time no sand storms just beautiful sunshine, but still nightmare traffic as we
made our way from the Port of Piraeus to Athens although it really is one giant city
now. First stop of course had to be the Acropolis but not before we stopped at the
Old Olympic Stadium built in 1896 and refurbished archery and the finish of the
marathon of the 2004 Olympic Games. A lot of the Acropolis is under scaffolding as
it is slowly refurbished. None the less still impressive when one realizes it was built
446-437 BC. Just beyond the Acropolis is the temple honoring Athena & Poseidon
which has very little scaffolding around it now. Of course as one drives around
Athens it is impossible not to see the many other Roman sites like the Temple of
Zeus or Hadrian's Arch, plus more modern ones such as the Statue of Lord Byron,  
the tomb of the unknown soldier with the Greek Guards in their very distinctive
Day 91 - Pompeii & Amalfi Coast
10.04.08
So on to Italy and beautiful Sorrento perched (literally) on cliffs above the Tyrrhenian
sea. Due to a shallow harbour this was an anchorage stop and transported ashore
by our fleet of tenders. When we got ashore the streets are so narrow and winding
we had to take the towns small buses to a parking area to rendezvous with our tour
buses. Of course one of the main attractions from Sorrento is Pompeii which is a city
all unto itself, covering 66 hectars of which 50 have been excavated. Had eight
entrances to it (only seven have been found to date). What is truly most fascanating
is the fact that it used to be a sea port, the sea wall and the bollards for tying ships
up to if very evident indeed.  When Vesuvius erupted in 79AD so much ash, rock and
lava came out that the shore line was pushed miles away and is where people had
been searching for Pompeii. It was not until digging to install sewer pipes was the
discovery made. Just like the Forbidden City it would take weeks to cover the whole
site, but we did manage to visit some of the most important, the bakery complete
with griding stones & oven, the beauty spa (one for mjen & one for women) complete
Pompeii
with changing room, the hot room with heated floors & walls and hot tub, sauna and cooling down room. We learnt to distinguish
homes from stores by the groove in the portico of stores to allow the wooden shutters to be pulled across; saw the grooves in the
streets made by countless chariots travelling them. Believe it or not it even had a red light district with signs in the road as to how to
locate it! But perhaps the most incredible of all are the plaster encased remains of people and animals that were found around the
site, (it is estimated that 3,000 never made it out) some of which are located with masses of other artifacts unearthed in sheds on site.
All too soon it was time to get back into our mini bus to continue our tour along the Amalfi Coast. Travelling around it was impossible
not to miss the hundreds and hundreds of lemon trees around this part of  Italy being so famous for it's lemon products. The type of
farming they do here is called intensive farming, you have the citrus trees, olive trees, then underneath them the grape vines, then
underneath them artichokes or the oval shaped tomatoes then underneath them lettuce, onions, etc. Quite fascinating. The lemons
trees we found out produce year round, even a huge one about the size of a small football which we later found out is not a true lemon
but a cross and more a grapefruit. It is the very fertile volcanic soil that helps with this as it does in the valley just below where flowers
are grown to send all over the country but also across the world.  The Amalfi coast is basically 41 kilometers of sheer cliff, yet houses,
spectacular villas and hundreds of hotels have been built here as well as many terraces growing fruits and vegetables. Only cars and
mini buses are permitted to travel on these very narrow and winding roads which used to be just donkey paths until Mussolini turned
them into roads. En route we passed the villa that used to be owned by Maria Calais, past the three small Islands called the Sirens
where Rudolph Nureyev had a villa which was sold for $2 million after his death and where Liz Taylor stayed last year at a cost of
$1,000 per day (oh yes breakfast was included!). But one of the most startling was an old monastery which is currently being totally
renovated for a 5 star hotel as it was purchased for $20 million by one of Bill Gates' associates. Talk about being surrounded by the
rich and famous! Actually at lunch we were made to feel like the rich and famous at this beautiful hotel with six terraces first time I have
seen an elevator with -1, -2, -3, -4 for it's floor stops! It's whole interior was out of marble and tile, we were greeted with champagne
and a meal fit for a king from local specialties. No wonder we rolled back to the ship after such a spectacular day.
Day 92 - Rome
11.04.08
The Colosseum
Civitavecchia, Italy's port to reach the city of Rome and today we made a wise choice
in taking a bus tour of the city except for a stop at Saint Peter's square as it rained
practically the whole day! Going back in history hit us as soon as we left the ship as
we had to pass through huge defence walls and a beautifully preserved fort (built by
Michelangelo in 1557) with the local fishermen taking full advantage of the small
protective harbour behind it to moor their boats and store their fishing nets.
The drive into the city was practically an hour and took us through the rural
countryside where farming was very similar to that of Sorrento but far less citrus
trees. Like many of the major cities we have visited Rome is no different when it
comes to traffic and was certainly a major concern for our guide when it came to
visiting all the important sites. For some reason the traffic Gods were with us partly
Day 94 - Barcelona
13.04.08
The Maritime Building
Barcelona, Spain and yet another Olympic city. Regretfully we did not get to see the
main stadium as a major soccer match was being played.There is no doubt that this
city is an architects` and artists` bonanza. From the carefully preserved smoke
stacks of the old cotton mill (a reminder of the industrial past) which is now an office
complex, the beautifully designed street lampposts, the variety of very different and
ornate apartment buildings that Gaudi and his co-horts built in a contest to of course
Gaudi's very ornate Church of La Sagrada Familia started over a centenary and a half
ago and still not finished! So much so that where the main entryway is supposed to
be there are now shops and apartments which have been built illegally and now
have to be torn down before the "cathedral" gets completed. The city is beautifully laid
out and very easy to navigate, the streets at times having orange tress down them
just brimming with fruit. Never did find out if you could go up and pick one. True to their mandate of preserving the old while embrasing
the new was the beautiful old brick bull fighting ring, now no longer in use as there is no bull fighting in Bacellona. So the interior is
being gutted while the exterior is being preserved and it will end up as a shopping centre!!!!! Coping with another kind of stampeed
durting the sales. Like many of Europe's modern cities traffic is a major problem, however Barcelona is trying a very unique
programme, public bicycles. Find a rack with the very distinctive red and white bicycles in it, place your deposit to release it and go on
your merry way. When you reach your destination deposit it in  a vacant slot and retrieve your deposit! Some of the locals are not too
keen on the idea, finding the cyclist a bit of a nightmare not knowing how to cycle. While there is a lot of very modern architecture a
great amount of care has been taken to preserve the historical buildings and to blend the modern in with the old. Of course one of the
most famous museums is the Picasso Museum as Barcelona was where Picasso lived as a struggling art student. One of the most
popular areas for tourists is Las Ramblas where vendors sell everything the tourist is looking for, regretfully no longer the market area
that locals frequent just the very talented pick pockets about which we received numerous warnings. Our day in this remarkable city
ended quite spectacularly as in the evening the world renowned dance troup `Los Muleros`` provided us with a magnificent evening of
Flamenco Dancing and an incredible castenet solo. We learnt later that they have performed at  Buckingham Palace, the White House
to name only two of their many prestigieous comand performances and what better way to end a visit to Spain.
because it was Friday so a lot of people were heading into the country for the weekend and partly because it was raining (rather
intermittent showers.) Rome is built on seven hills with the river Tiber running underneath them. Crossing the river and passing
through the old fortification walls is when you enter the city proper, but there is much outside the city as well, such as the beautiful
church of St. Peter outside the walls! Once inside it became almost totally overwhelming the number of Roman buildings, fortifications,
or ruins we passed. One thing I know for sure, the driver certainly knew his way around driving down roads that would bring us back to
the same place but affording the other side of the bus a good view and slowing down when ever possible for people to get
photographs and for our guide to provide us with a good history. Some of the main place we passed were of course the large
Colosseum, with so much still intact, so think that the Gladiators actually fought in this building!   Palatine Hill where wealthy families
built their villas and just below it Circus Maximus where chariot races took place, in fact the chariot race in Ben Hur was actually filmed
here.  The triple arch of Constantine, the emperor who delayed the decline of the Roman empire. So much is still standing that it would
not be too difficult to walk the streets as the Romans did. Then of course surrounding all of this is the architecture of the 15th century.
One of the most beautiful ones that we were able to drive right around was the huge church of Santa Maria Maggiore which has the
highest bell tower in the city as well as one of only two obalisks in the city.  The other of course located in the magnificent St Peter's
Square with the Basilica the heart of Vatican City. The lineup to get into the Basilica went two thirds around St. Peters square and
certainly by our judgement was taking well over an hour to get in, yet people were patiently waiting in line. So the opportunity was taken
to photograph St Peter's square and the adjoining buildings slowly. One can certainly tell that the Vatican is well into the electronic age
as there are at least four giant screens placed around the square for people to see the Pope more clearly when carrying out services
there. Yes just like at a huge rock concert! With our heads in giant overload from all that we had seen it was time to head back to the
boat and hope to goodness we would be able to recognize all the various sites in the photographs.
Day 96 - Gibralta
15.04.08
The old Moorish Castle
Regretfully only a morning stop at Gibraltar, for while Gibraltar is small in size it is
just `stuffed`with history, and of course can only be reached by road from Spain (who
still want it back),. A road incidentally that still crosses the main runway and closes
between take off and landings!  Morocco is just a half hour ferry ride away, so it may
be small but is mighty in so many ways.  However Sue found it distinctly changed
from her navy days, hardly a navy ship to be seen, and not a sign of the huge NATO
command centre that used to be housed in the tunnels beneath the rock. However
the Apes are still there and still up to their old tricks of grabbing handbags,
rucksacks, binoculars or anything else from unsuspecting tourists!  The magnificent
Rock hotel is still there with it`s magnificent view of the Spanish & African coasts.
Changed considerably and no longer serving the 22 different types of PIMS with their
array of fruits and vegetable decorations. Yes a lot has changed in Gibraltar since the navy`s heyday, certainly a vast number of
apartment buildings but there is still all the history including the Moorish castle, St Michale`s Cave and of course the famous HMS
Victory anchorage where the ship berthed on her way home with Nelson`s body. Also not to be missed is the fact that all vehicles drive
on the left, good old fashioned red mail boxes still exist as do the ever helpful British Bobbies. Just too bad the weather did not provide
a warmer visit,
Day 97 - Lisbon
16.04.08
Belem Tower
  Wow what a welcome, 4 tugs letting loose with their fire hoses as we sailed up the
Tagus River to the city of Lisbon, passing the famous Belem Tower, The Monument of
the Discoveries on our port side and the huge Christ the King monument (very much
like the famous statue of Christ in Brazil). The reason we discover for our huge
welcome was because it was Princess Cruise Lines inaugral visist to the city.
   The day started out very dreary but once again turned into a beautiful sunny day.
Lisbon very much like Rome is draped across seven hills and once used to be the
centre of a vast maritime empire that stretched from the west coast of Africa to the
Spice Islands of the East Indies. But this all came crashing down on November 1st,
1755 when a huge earth quake destroyed two-thirds of the city in approximately 10
minutes. However the beautiful old Moorish quarter (Alfama) fortunately survived.
Today's Lisbon is a stately city of neoclassical buildings, beautiful wide plazas and as we were to find out, ancient castles and
cathedrals. Our tour started out with stops at the famous Belem Tower built to defend the harbour as well as serve as a prison. Also in
the adjacent park  there was also a steel replica of the seaplane Fairey III-B that flew the last leg of the First Aerial Crossing of the South
Atlantic. Then on to the Monument of the Discoveries commemorating Portugal's great seafarers, where a teacher dressed up as
Vasco DeGama was giving his students an on site history lesson. Then on to the beautiful Jerome Monastery for a quick tour of the
church as the rest is now a museum. The rest of our bus tour took us up to the Beautiful King Edward VII Park which overlooked the
Marques de Pombal monument. As we wound in and out of the one way system we got to see the beautiful Duarte Viaduct, as well as
the public elevator and the vehicular railway to help transit the steep seven hills. When we reached the Baixa quarter (lower town) and
the huge arch of the "Black Horse" Praca do Comercio we transferred from our modern coach to an old fashioned tram to tour the old
Moorish part of the city. Our tram "wiggled" it's way through this enchanting area. At times the streets were so narrow only one tram
would fit and we were only inches away from the buildings. Our journey into this beautiful older part of the city was assisted by several
glasses of local port poured expertly by one of our hostesses in local costume, as well we were served the famous local small egg
custard tarts. As we toured we were continually passing small stores that were your old style butcher baker candlestick maker style.
One store catered material, nextdoor would be the buttons and ribbons store. You had your butcher next to the baker, fishmonger,
greengrocer and cafe.  There were several little areas of these stores as we twisted and turned throughout this area. To see the way
these buildings had been built into the hillside with the most beautiful glazed tiles on their exteriors was truly delightful. All too soon this
part of our tour came to an end and back on to our bus for the retun to the ship. But we have most definitely listed Lisbon as a place to
return to.
Day 100 - Cork
22.04.08
Gorse on Cork's hillside
After a couple of somewhat rough sea days we arrived at the port of Cobh and the
weather was typically Irish wet and cold (even the locals were all bundled up in
Parkas!) However our good luck weather charm was still with us as the rain let up.
For anyone who is of Irish decent Cobh is an important port as it is from here that all
Irish emigrants left. As a reminder of this fact at the dock gates is a statue of  Annie
Sullivan and her two children, identical to the one on Ellis Island in the US. En route
to the picturesque fishing port of Kinsale we passed through lush green countryside
as well as masses of gorse in full bloom making hillsides just a mass of yellow.
Before we reached Kinsale we had a brief stop at the 17th century Charles Fort built
at the mouth of the harbour estuary and providing a superb view to the tiny fishing
port. Kinsale is a beautifully historic port with a great number of preserved 18th
century houses with small meandering streets. I also discovered that it was from this port that Timothy McCarthy, one of the people of
Shackleton's Antarctic Expedition who made the epic 800 mile voyage in an open boat to get help for the stranded expedition. From
Kinsale we returned to the city of Cork that we had bypassed earlier for a great lunch of Irish stew, a glass of Guinness great desert
and being entertained by the famous Irish group The Weavers.
Then it was back on the bus for the drive to the small village of Blarney
and of course the famous Blarney Castle. Despite the castle being a huge attraction the village has managed to stay "a village"
including a huge village green around which most of the houses and small shops are built, no supermarkets here! The castle is in a
beautiful park that has a small stream running through it, and all the spring flowers were in full bloom including about four different
colours of heather. To reach the famous stone one has to climb very steep and extremely narrow staircases to the battlements and  
with the help of a qualified staff member turn oneself practically upside down to get to the stone. Sue having already performed such a
feat while serving in Ireland chose not to repeat the antic but wander around the village admiring all the beautifully thatched cottages.
One huge attraction in Blarney  is the Woolen Mill founded by Christy Kelleeher that provided many people with jobs when there were
not too many around. Now however it has been turned into a huge store selling everything Irish, from Donegal Tweed, Waterford
crystal to Irish linen and of course Aran sweaters. The array was enough to make the mouth water but the prices left a huge hole or
dent on many a credit card! For those who are not aware Ireland is one of the common markets big success stories as it has gone
from a big have not nation getting mony from Burssels to a country that is now thriving and in fact giving mony to Brussels thanks to
some forward thinking people who took the money and trained a huge diverse work force and then wooed European companies to
establish factories/offices etc. However in the process Ireland has not lost is charm and very hospitable people. All too soon it was
time to return to the ship and head to France.
Day 103 - Southampton
19.04.08
So our epic voyage came to an end. We did stop at LeHavre on the 21st however
had to cancel our trip to Paris as regretfully developed a huge tooth ache after we left
Cobh. As it turned out it was one very very rainy day so not a good day to go cruising
the Seine, next time.
Our ending in Southampton in fact was a very "Royal" occasion as the three Queens
were also docked, The QE2, The Queen Victoria, and the Queen Mary. When we
woke up in the morning and looked out we stood  bow to bow with the QE2, we saw
the Queen Victoria arrive in a very dense fog but never did get to see the Queen Mary
which some of our fellow passengers returned to the US on.
We hope you have enjoyed this "ships Log" and they it has helped you share with us
the incredible journey we had.