Cook the Book: Perfect French Fries
I think that french fries are underappreciated. Sure, everyone eats them and enjoys them but do we ever really stop to think about the process of the french fry? I hadn't until I started working in a restaurant kitchen that prided itself on its fresh-cut fries. I quickly became acquainted with the long and painstaking evolution of the prefect fry. Hours of cutting, soaking, rinsing, re-rinsing, frying, cooling, and re-frying go into this classic burger accompaniment. French fries are not just fried potatoes.
Making the perfect fries is a learning process; it took Bobby Flay years to perfect his technique. Here are a few of his tips for mastering the art of the perfect fry from Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes.
Russets or baking potatoes are the best, whereas waxy potatoes (such as Red Bliss or new potatoes) simply won't do. Soaking is key—this removes the starch, keeps the potatoes from sticking together, and eliminates the sugars that prevent the potatoes from achieving maximum crispness. As far as oils go, peanut oil is the best for deep frying. It has a high smoking point and a taste that is mild enough not to overpower the potatoey goodness of your fries. While countertop deep fryers are great you don't need one to make fantastic fries at home. A heavy-bottomed pot, a wire mesh strainer, a deep-fry thermometer, and a roll of paper towels are the only pieces of equipment you need for piles of golden brown, crisp and delicious fries at home.
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Perfect French Fries
- serves 4 -
Adapted from Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes by Bobby Flay.
Ingredients
5 large Russet potatoes, peeled or well scrubbed, if leaving leaving the skin on
1 quart peanut oil
Kosher salt
Procedure
1. Cut the potatoes lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices, then cut each slice lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick fries. Put the fries in a large bowl of cold water and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 8 hours.
2. Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed medium stockpot over medium heat, or in a tabletop deep fryer, to 325° F. Line a baking sheet with paper towels and set aside.
3. Drain the fries well and pat dry in batches with paper towels. Fry each batch, turning frequently, for 3 to 4 minutes or until the fries are a pale blond color and limp. Remove with a mesh skimmer to the baking sheet lined with paper towels.
4. Increase the heat of the oil to 375° F.
5. Fry the potatoes again, in batches, turning frequently, until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove with the skimmer and drain on clean paper towels. Season immediately with salt and serve hot.
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9 Comments:
There's a type of frite from Belgium that uses the internal moisture in an interesting way. Thick-cut potato strips are blanched until almost done, dredged in flour and seasonings, and then tossed into the hottest possible oil you can safely manage (WEAR GLOVES!). The potato sort of explodes, with a crispy outside, as the moisture evaporates all at once. You get a kind of grown-up tater tot. Dip it aioli. And be careful.
NotAmerican at 2:09PM on 06/29/09
HMMMMMM FRENCH FRIESSSSSSSS
Lvn4life at 3:21PM on 06/29/09
Cook's Illustrated had an interesting recipe for french fries this issue. Very unorthodox! It calls for Yukon golds sliced for fries, and oil. Put the oil and the raw fries in a pot large enough for the job. DO NOT heat the oil first! When the fries are in the oil, turn the heat on high. As the oil heats up, it cooks the fries, and as it gets hotter, it crisps 'em up! It takes about 30 minutes.
I haven't tried this yet, but I'm going to!
1stmakearoux at 8:01PM on 06/29/09
Try cooking the potatoes in lard. Or better yet, for a true French version, cook it in duck fat.
boogaloobaby at 12:21AM on 06/30/09
I love homemade french fries. Good russets with the skins on or off (doesn't matter), thickly cut. Double fried in a heavy pot full of vegetable or canola oil, sprinkled with kosher or sea salt when they're fished out of the oil.
I just know when they're done. They turn the perfect shade of brown:)
omnomnom at 9:55PM on 06/30/09
French fries are a gift from the gods. Nuff said!
sticky wicket at 1:26AM on 07/02/09
Now you've gotten to my heart......luv French fries and have cooked mostly in canola oil;have used red potatoes and they are still delish! I really think double cooking is the best though. When rearing kids and having busy career I would simply leave the fries on low, in a heavy skillet, then when it was close to time of serving, raise the temp high.....as one said, one can tell by the color. Think I will go fry some right now!
mslady88 at 5:38PM on 09/30/09
1) Choose an Idaho Russet potato. Russet Burbanks if you can get them.
2) Condition the potato by storing in a 70 degree environment for a couple of weeks (potatoes coming out of cold storage need time to convert sugars back to starch).
3) Cut the potatoes into the desired fry size, similar size the fast food places you prefer..
4) Soak the cut potato strips in room temperature water for at least 8 hours, overnight is good (this soaking plumps up the cells within the potatoes to result in an improved texture). DO NOT USE ICE WATER OR REFRIGERATE!
5) Dry the potato strips and fry in 300 degree oil until just cooked inside and limp, fry time is dependent on the thickness of the fry strip. Let cool.
6) Bring oil to 375 degrees and fry until golden brown and crispy.
7) Of course, use beef fat, properly twice fried fries will not soak up fat.
What's the point of endeavoring to produce the very best french fry and then compromising the taste with a neutral tasting fry oil.
8) Important, work in controlled sized batches that doesn't drop the frying temperature significantly.
Maintain the fry temp or the fries will absorb fat.
9) Rice Bran Oil is the best alternative to those that have a aversion to beef fat.
In & Out restaurants are noted for excellent fries, they fry in Rice Bran Oil.
BillBill at 7:31PM on 01/21/10
Did the Cook's Illustrated cold oil start method tonight, and they came out great.
dmcavanagh at 1:33AM on 02/21/10