Hair Color At The Highest Level is Much Simpler Than it Appears

Who knows why, but I make my job and writing these Posts much harder than they need to be. As a Top Colorist you get stories of how your clients got to where they are... that at times can be so long, I cannot believe it is one person. Truly, they are mind bending. I know you all think that how you got there will help us, but here is the absolute truth : all of that doesn't matter. It doesn't matter that you went from boxed color to Sally's and around the corner to the best Salon in your city... and you have spent thousands of dollars and hours of time - - and your hair is horrendous. It simply : DOESN'T MATTER, however meaningful to you. Isn't your goal : better hair color, truly?

Ouch, did I hurt anyone's feelings?

Boy I hope not, that is not the point. What I hope to do is to clean up the Home hair coloring world so the stigma's are gone. . . the truth is told and the Salon experience for those that choose that method is understood. There is something that comes from being raised in California {don't worry I know you all think we are nuts...and bonkers} - a freedom, a 'who-gives-a-shit' lifestyle, a healthy yet -- many times NOT so healthy existence in a world gone mad. Hardly seems worth it sometimes, especially if the planet is as doomed as we keep hearing. But anyway . . . see how I too, can get side-tracked. Which is what I am trying to teach you NOT TO DO. Stay on point, when speaking to me or yourself, the Group about your hair color dealings. If you do that one thing it will get you an answer on how to fix your mop. How great would that be?

THE POINT HERE IS SIMPLICITY when dealing with trying to straighten your hair color out, which is why so many of you happen upon our little struggling BLOG/GROUP & STORE. The reason I want to teach you this? IS to get you the answer you ultimately want - - only faster.

Drop the long stories, drop the lengthy-ass history . . . and "cut-to-the- chase" ( my personal favorite line ) and you know why ? ? You will get a better, more cared-for, more efficient answer to your puzzlement about your hair Color problems.

When I was training a very long time ago... she would give me a line-up of 15-20 clients.... I would have 15 minutes to go down the line and come up with the heads of hair "FORMULA's for all the clients. Now if each one had a long drawn out story . . . we would still be there. That is not how Sassoon works, they are a Hair Color BOOT CAMP, that's what I called them as I never quite had an experience like that before and I truly felt like I was in Boot Camp of some sort. The only information I could have would be the answer to 3 questions and 3 sentences written by the client and that was it. The 3/3 Method of Hair Color Formulation I would later teach all my assistants.

You would be surprised how that is all we needed. . . many times I got to the point of not needing the 3 sentences. But when I moved from the Academy setting to the Salon I gave every single client that sit in my chair a Questionnaire prior to me ever laying my hands on them.

That is what I want you all to work on, when you come to the group and ask questions. . . or in any future Consultations I conduct. There is one key word in each sentence...can you tell us what that word is? Please enter in the Comments section below.

The 3 Questions

1.) What is your virgin Level and Tone ? __________L _________T

2.) What is your present Level & Tone? __________L _________T

3.) What is your desired Level & Tone? __________L _________T

Now those 3 sentences . . . what would YOU choose to tell a top Colorist, if you could. If you were in this situation? For so many of you with Color issues, can you shorten your story down. I would hope that by hearing that this is not as complicated as so many of you think . . . that maybe you will take the plunge and give home hair coloring a shot. Its really not that hard, its really a very simple hobby. As with all things complicated in your life - research and study . . . I have 2 years of POSTS - right here in front of your face.

I have opened up the stigma of the Hair Color world for you to learn, and you know what I know for sure....??? Is that it works, I have hundreds of Crib Colorists that have taken the time, to read through the entire Blog and they are all successfully coloring their hair at home. No, you will not learn it all in a night.... not even 2 nights. Its not hard - - but is not just a 20-30 minute read either.

Anything good, does not come easy . . .

if I have learned one thing in life - is that 1 sentence is true. I don't believe there are any free-rides. You want to home hair color your hair and have it look like Gwen Stefani's or Gisele's. . . first you need to learn to "lower your standards" to who is exactly standing in front of you when you are in front of that mirror. Look at the "type" of hair you have, then IF you would like to have a celebrities hair, which can very successfully be done at home - be sure you pick a celeb's hair that is similar to your your type. Do they have the same texture? Do they have the same type of hair YOU have. If not, get over it - - and move on till you find one that does. There seems to be more celebrities than people now a days - its pretty ridiculous.

I am enjoying learning what a wonderful knowledge base Killer Strands has born... so many of our members can spout off Levels,Tones and procedures in the Group and wow it makes me proud of all of you that have taken the time to read what was very difficult for me to write. I now know why people 'teach' . It can be very rewarding ... what a wonderful warm feeling to see and hear a group of people spout off some of your very own verbiage, teachings, etc. It is just inspiring to me. . .truly inspiring.

Remember my number one recommendation if you are an old member a new member. . . or just a member. Start at the beginning and read forward. . .go a week at a time - if you can't handle anymore. Read the entire Blog, that one suggestion has retrieved the most compliments . So there is your project for the week. . . set goals, even with your hair, get it in the best shape it has ever been. Have day after day of GOOD HAIR DAYS.... it's not that hard, I promise.

Seen by tens of millions

I rarely bring up my private life, but I am just so proud of my oldest daughter I wanted to "tell the world!"

She has worked her butt off in a career she had no help with, what so ever. . . In our particular family dynamic, that is hard to do. . . she is a Photographer and her shot made the cover of PEOPLE magazine. That is huge for her and her career.

What a darling little girl and a beautiful family.

Nope its not hair related at all today . . .  just wanted to show off my daughter, Cheyenne Marie.

I love you and as always, am so proud of you, Mom

http://www.cheyenneellis.com

How exactly does the "Lift & Deposit" chemical reaction in permanent hair color work?

A question was posed on the previous Post about this, which I felt warranted its own POST. Good question =(equals) Post is kind of how it works here in the Killer Strands Land of Hair Care.

All permanent hair coloring works the same. Which I would like you all to understand, especially in the ongoing debate of "Professional Hair Color versus 'Public' Hair Color" and the difference between them. Some of the licensed Hair Stylists want you to believe there is a huge difference in the products you can purchase at Sally's and the ones "we" licensed ... Board certified Professionals purchase. Now, available in the Killer Strands Store. Just so you know, as I was readying to launch the new Killer Strands store, the Publicity Release went out announcing that Wella would be soon selling their professional color to the public, the same way they do in every other country in the world.

They like you to believe that, you ...the public, don't have the talent or education to use Professional hair color, that it takes a year of schooling to be able to use it properly.

Well, you should know me by now... and I, of course, would like to blow the top off of that stupid theory. . . I would make a 'conservative' guess that 80 %-90% of all Cosmetology students are not even taught practical hair color education when they go to school ... you know what they teach them? How to pass the State Board Tests, in order to get your license. Which to me and to the Vidal Sassoon Academy's --> is TOTALLY ridiculous. State Board Tests are so antiquated, they test for your ability to perform finger waving 'speed' and roller setting swiftness as if that is how we all wear our hair on a daily basis. I am not kidding, it is completely and utterly ridiculous the testing they put you through to have a license here in the state of California, and am told California is the hardest 'Board' test in the union {and you wonder why the last cut/color you got was horrific}.

Vidal Sassoon where I attended, did not teach passing the state board Test (you were left to your own devices to figure that out) they taught Hair Color Theory ...Hair color application, Hair Color Formulation, Hair cutting theory & Hair cutting practice....there is a reason it is referred to as the "Harvard of Hair Schools" -- it truly deserves it. But...such a very small percentage of the millions of Hair Stylists out there have attended either of the 2 schools (1 in LA & 1 in London - period)- - it leaves the majority of Cosmetologists ; untrained and left to their own devices to learn on poor unsuspecting clients. Yes, that is where they learn - - - on YOU. When I finally figured that out, I was terrified for the 'client'. What the solution to this is - - - is finally surfacing, various Hair Color Companies are starting their own "specialty" Hair Academy's. I have heard Aveda, Paul Mitchell & now Redken are the first with sporadic academies popping up around the country. The smart companies are hiring 'ex' Sassoon-heads to build their schools around and to know "how" - "what" and "where" to do this successfully. No one will ever have the brilliance and finesse of a Sassoon Academy....until you have been engrossed in one - - you won't know what you are missing. It was one of the smarter moves I've ever made...it truly has stayed ingrained in me for the last 16 years.

Since viewing the problems of unqualified Stylists, from different angles, I try to remain semi - compassionate to all sides of the story -- but its hard. I'm so driven, that I will go to any lengths to get the proper training I need for a certain purpose, I don't understand why everyone can't be that way. Alas, it just is not always possible for everyone to have the fortunate situation I had, in growing up 30 miles from the 1 Vidal Sassoon Academy in America.

But, there are books, there are tapes, there are DVD's - Videos, U-TUBE - - there are always, some form of advanced hair education going on all over the country. . . ALWAYS. Use it, invest in yourself & your talent, it will pay you back, I promise...having a full book of clients is a wonderful thing.

The difference between Professional Hair Color & "public" Hair Color (for lack of a better word) ......is ......"quality" yep, that's it. Which is why when you get your hair done by a professional - - you wonder...." why, does it not look this good when I do it myself" ? ? Its the quality of pigments in that tube of color,the quality of ingredients that provide both SHINE & Vivid color, its the quality of Developer - that I even call "premium" Developer that is different. Remember there is no other time that the hair cuticle is open; allowing lipids, and conditioners of all types to get into the strand of hair, than with the Permanent Hair Color process. But, the actual "process of how" they both work ("professional" and "public" hair color) is exactly the same.

There is no reason on this planet that if you understand both the:

• Level System of Hair Color and
• Color Theory (related to Hair)

you cannot color your hair with professional hair color - at home - successfully. There is no secret, there is no trick, no talent we learn as Licensed hair Stylists that you don't have access to. I just want that to be CRYSTAL CLEAR to everyone, because it is not fair that the people at home are not allowed to have access to better quality hair color. So many of the stories I hear are " I have tried every hair stylist in my town and every single one has destroyed my hair" - I want to take back control of my own hair color and learn how to do it myself.

You know what my argument is when a licensed hair stylist starts to get in my face about this? I say: at least I teach the Level System and Color Theory - in going to Sally's they can buy anything without teaching them a thing, and 9 times out of 10 point them in the wrong direction. Hundreds of millions of women/men go to Sally's Beauty Supply every single week and they are mis-guided by uneducated, uncaring individuals that CAUSE most of the Color Correction cases we Colorists see on a weekly basis. Both, Sally's & Boxed Hair Color Kits are the 2 main "causes" of most Hair Color Disasters across the USA. Its an eye opening experience to have a hair Blog and Group such that I have, the privilege of owning these has opened my eyes to what is going on nationwide ... not just here in my little corner of the country. Once people started writing in to me from every state, I realized the problem was a whole Helluva lot bigger than I ever realized. Someone needs to help all these people have some decent education on how to properly care for their hairs health and their hair color.

Its not a matter of the education not being there, its a matter of the 'wall' put up between Hair Stylist and Hair Client. With the Stylist acting like they have some "other worldly" powers over hair, that they are keeping secret...and will disperse a little bit at a time, but only if you keep coming back to them as a good client should... I cannot say it loud enough: R-I-D-I-C-U-L-O-U-S .

Of course, I don't mean every Stylist...but just today on one of the most recent "comments" a new reader left, here is the Comment:

Hi! My hairstylist uses low "natural enzymes" in the place of developer, but she refuses to tell me anything more about it, or where to find it. Go figure... She also says that she uses color with low ammonia to color my hair.
My hair is super-soft and almost damage free and I was wondering if you know anything about these enzymes?

here is my answer:

anonymous,
Nope, have no idea what she is referring to. I can honestly say out of 10,000 Heads of Hair I have worked on ... 95% of them had super-soft and damage-free hair.
Hair Color (done correctly) can be a wonderful thing and creates absolutely NO damage to hair. I have said over and over that the way hair color works in todays upper echelon is to:
>> strengthen
>> add body
and the best trait of all:
>> it adds tons of shine
I don't believe she used any special "enzymes" to color your hair, I believe it is one more hair stylist perpetuating the unnecessary wall & shut down of communication that has gone up between hair stylist and client, that besides being absolutely ridiculous is just one more show of the paranoid insecurities that most hair stylists possess. You most likely have great hair to begin with...
& she enriches it with a top hair color.... that is not a tough task.
In my world that is the "norm", not the rarity that many of you think.
I have been working on a post trying to explain to people if a color "claims" it has no ammonia, then it uses a substitute ingredient that does the exact same thing as ammonia.
So why does that make it a better hair color to you?
When it still does the exact same thing?
MAKES ZERO SENSE.
All permanent hair color uses the exact SAME TECHNOLOGY....there is no NEW technology for COLORING HAIR.
When there is, I promise I will announce it here.

KC

Now, the shine, the vividness, the pigment are all better with professional hair color. The technology is absolutely NO DIFFERENT. There is not one thing different we do as professional's. What we have is more experience on working on all types of hair....you - - you have experience with your own head of hair and maybe your sisters or best friends. But not on all types and textures of hair...which still doesn't make us an expert. I never feel like I have learned everything about hair color, nor will I ever. The best part about doing your own hair color is just that....its your own, you are experienced with all of its little traits, and flaws. I can ask hair color clients if their hair -- "takes" color well or not. 8 out 10 will know the answer to that question, which tells a colorist a LOT about your hair. That is the porosity of your hair and that little piece of information can save you from having a color disaster, if you are new to learning hair color.

Now the way permanent hair color works. Permanent hair color has 2 aspects:

• lightening/lifting and
• penetrating/depositing

Lightening comes from 2 key ingredients:

• ammonia ( or other catalyst) : in the cream
• hydrogen peroxide: in the developer

Ammonia is a critical ingredient in permanent hair color. Permanent Hair Color ALWAYS contains ammonia (or another catalyst that does the exact same thing) {remember this point}. The issue with 'ammonia' is the same issue as 'preservatives'... too much of it is unnecessarily damaging, but without ammonia, penetration, lightening and dye development would not occur. It, or something like it, is essential. Manufacturers of professional products strive to put just enough--- and not too much---ammonia-- in their permanent hair color.

Now if a hair color says its "ammonia-free" then it will have an ammonia substitute. Therefore, if it has an ammonia substitute, which does the exact same thing, then all it is doing is tricking the consumer. Get it? Its still doing the exact same thing only with a different ingredient ( MEA; monoethanolamine is the one I know of, there are others).

Ammonia is an alkali: it swells the hair shaft, promoting penetration. It is also a catalyst and its primary purpose: to facilitate lightening by releasing oxygen, supplied by the developer, to OXIDIZE natural pigment. Ammonia, creates the necessary alkalinity for the development of permanent dyes; permanent haircoloring is always alkaline in pH.

Ammonia is not in the developer which so many people think, it is in the tube of hair color with the dyes. Lighter levels contain more ammonia than darker levels, in order to provide more lightening capability. Many of you have only dealt with 1 color range, but as a professional we deal with every range....clients range from level 1 to 12, which we may be dealing with in the same hour as clients come in all sizes and colors.

The higher the level , the more ammonia (lift) and the less pigment (deposit). The lower the level, the less lift and the greater the deposit. That's why a medium blond will cover gray better than a very light blond. It is also why a medium brown will not lift as many levels as a high-lift tint.

High-Lift colors contain the most ammonia, to have the most aggressive and extended lift cycles. That much ammonia in darker levels , however would be overkill. Ammonia is calibrated by levels in all professional products.

Another critical component of permanent hair coloring is hydrogen peroxide. The developers for permanent hair coloring products, (whether clear or cream) are hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen Peroxide is the oxidizer of permanent hair coloring, providing the oxygen for lightening of natural pigment, and for the development of artificial pigment. Permanent hair coloring is sometimes referred to as oxidative haircoloring. It is the hydrogen peroxide

in permanent hair coloring -- not

the ammonia -- that causes

oxidative hair damage. Top Colorists are

aware of the damage created by excessively high developer volumes and use only that which is necessary.

The chemical shorthand for hydrogen peroxide is H2 O2 meaning 2 hydrogen atoms and 2 oxygen atoms. Higher volumes of hydrogen peroxide provide more oxygen for more extended lightening. Higher volumes create more lift and less deposit; lower volumes create less lift and greater deposit. This is why better gray coverage is achieved with 20 Volume rather than 40 volume.

Some strength of hydrogen peroxide has to be used in order to develop the dyes of permanent haircoloring. Just to get the 'dyes' to color the hair, an oxidizer has to be present. ( and peroxide all by itself won't lighten the hair, either - sometimes an email comes in with someone trying this....and I want to cringe...it needs to react with ammonia in order for efficient oxidation to occur.) peroxide,ammonia and the dyes all need each other to get the hair coloring to work properly and to its fullest.

When people start quoting these silly sayings like " no ammonia" or "low ammonia" hair color... I just quietly look at them and think......" you will be right back in to see me fix the mess you are going to make of your hair". Because they have no idea what "low ammonia" means ... I will ask them , " what does ammonia do to hair color ??? " Not one of them ever knows, in 16 years I have never once run into a 1 person that can answer that question. I just completely explained what ammonia does in the hair color process, just a few paragraphs up. . . and I bet 50% of you still can't tell me what it does . .? ? ? ? So if you don't know what ammonia does, why are you trying to eliminate it ? ? ? How do you know its bad? Personally if a hair color says anything about having "Low ammonia or No ammonia in it. . . I just turn and walk away, why? ? ? because I know how necessary it is for a perfect....beautiful ....head of hair color.

In order for permanent hair color to work properly, it is a chemical reaction and ammonia is needed for the chemical reaction to take place properly. I have found that every single person that sits in my chair does not really care how it gets there . . . but what they want is a rich - - - gorgeous - - - vivid - - - - shiny - - - properly toned KNOCKOUT head of hair with Hair Color to match. As long as their hair is as healthy and as luxurious as I can possibly make it . . the ingredients I use to get it there are going to be the Top-of-the-Line for what I need to make that process take place. I doubt there is a person on the planet that wants orange or yellow hair, because their hair color says "no ammonia" on the box or tube. When hair reaches the proper color, the most beautiful wheat blond or the most yummy Matt (non-brassy) blond you have ever see then NO REPAIR has to take place - which adds to the processes the hair has to endure. Think about everything you are saying or thinking before pronouncing the big plans you may have for your hair. . .

Sit back and relax, I care for my clients hair as if it were my own or my childrens . . I now give all of that to you - - - as a gift.

KillerStrands the Group,

http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands

KillerStrands the Blog ...........you are here

KillerStrands the Store

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/

Killer Chemist

Nobody Puts Baby In the Corner . . . . Rest In Peace Patrick Swayze

Glamour
Puss





Translated

King of the Hill Killer Color

 

The fourth and most important color service is permanent hair color (tint) often referred to as single-process haircoloring.

Oxidative color, henna, metallic & compound dyes and bleach are all considered  Permanent Haircolor.  Permanent haircoloring products are designed to permanently alter the natural pigmentation of hair.

 

The primary defining characteristic of Permanent Haircolor is that it is able to lighten natural pigment. Ammonia or another lightening catalyst in the dye-bearing cream...combines with hydrogen peroxide in the developer to lighten natural pigment. Poof, the change is permanent!

Although the permanent penetrating tints ( known as single - processing color) involve both subtraction of the hair's natural pigment and addition of synthetic pigment. This is the hair color that is the most versatile yet it is the one that puzzles KillerStranders the most. Its a weird process if you think about it - what do you mean it lifts the color and then deposits color - at the exact same time ? ? ? ? Well, that is a very simplified explanation of what & how the permanent hair color process works.  It penetrates the cortex of the hair and becomes "locked" in through a process called oxidation. Permanent means the color forever alters the texture of the hair, causing it to SWELL - which is why I like this category of hair color the best. With hair texture swollen, it gives hair the "feel" of more VOLUME and therefore more BODY. I'm fairly certain most people welcome the 'feel' of more Volume & Body in the hair. This makes the fact that the altering of the hairs texture "permanent" a plus yet everyone needs to understand "permanent"  means exactly that - - - - - PERMANENT.

I would guess that even though a Boxed Hair Color, that both advertises and sells their product to be semi or demi-permanent is truthfully : PERMANENT. If it lightens AT ALL, then it is permanent. There is no such thing as a DEMI--permanent Lightener -- and I can't tell you how many people have come to me with the story they bought a Demi permanent that was just supposed to lighten a little. Lightening a "little means you end up with Orange or Gold. Many of my Color Correction Stories stem from a hair color disaster caused because the person was misled by false advertising on the BOX of haircolor - thinking the color inside was a true Semi permanent - please --> everyone, remember this.

Permanent hair color is used to match, lighten and cover Gray hair, they generally contain ammonia, oxidative tint and peroxide. The tint formula contains uncolored dye precursors which are very small compounds that can diffuse into the hair shaft. These dye precursors, also referred to as aniline derivatives, combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent tint molecules. These molecules are trapped within the cortex of the hair and cannot be shampooed out. This is WHY these products are considered PERMANENT.

Now, permanent penetrating tints known as SINGLE-PROCESS Color involves both subtraction of the hairs natural pigment and addition of  synthetic pigment. This process happens simultaneously, which frankly amazes me and should you. Simply, when you are using that tint brush, and applying that permanent hair color the magical way the combination of the tint(color) with the Developer ( hydrogen peroxide) works is as follows:  at the very same time it LIFTS your hair color OUT of the strand and DEPOSITS the new hair color INTO the hair strand at the exact same time. It then closes the cortex of the hair and locks it in the hair strand, if that isn't magic - - I don't know what is .

If you are DEPOSITING you are adding(+). Therefore, when you both lighten and deposit color, you are doing both subtraction and addition. This type of coloring is the most popular but it is also the most difficult to perform correctly. That is what is so hard to explain to clients, as there are 2 complete chemical actions going on. A full understanding of the Level System is what will help permanent hair color and is mainly why it has been developed. The Level System works with the fact that permanent hair color both LIFTS and DEPOSITS at the same time so you can actually calculate your hair color using numbers.

Permanent hair color creates  a

real change in the hair color

& hair texture & always leaves a

regrowth line.

Permanent Hair color is used for:

• Changes existing hair color
• Covers Gray
• Creates bright or natural-looking
• Hair color changes

Learning Your Levels subliminally . . .

Something Wonderful is About to Happen to Your Hair...

Killer   Chemist

 Wella's Koleston Perfect Line of Permanent Hair Color has gone through an entire revamp of the line....new pretty Peacock feather boxes, and a new science they refer to as:  TRILUXIV TECHNOLOGY, which separates the hair color process into 3 stages of the way the color works and imparts 69% MORE shine than hair without Wella hair color. Something I have been trying to impress on you all from Day 1 of the Blog. Wella reigns for imparting shine into the strands of many a bombshell . . .

What’s new?

• Koleston Perfect's new and improved formula for even more expressive color result
• More intensive, vibrant colors, with now even better color balance!
• The big selection of color with exciting new nuances, where you surely can find the exact right nuance to fit you.
• Long-lasting. Especially in the reds range. Koleston Perfect Vibrant Reds now last even longer – up to 15%!
• Remarkable shine! What would you say to up to 69% more shine when compared with untreated hair?
• Unbelievably! Not just better, but also more gentle! New Koleston Perfect is now even more gentle for a worry-free color with no regrets

Also there are 2 completely new Tonal Categories :  /17  and   /38. 
The following Testimonial is the third positive response + PLUS my own,  I have had to this new tone line by Wella in their brand new /38 Line of Permanent Hair Color :

"Just wanted to thank you for the /38 series color suggestion.  I get more compliments on my hair color now.  The guy that just cut my hair even said he liked it and I did a great job.  Thanks again.  Heidi  "

The 2 new Tonal Categories are /38 - Gold Pearl  and  /17-Ash Brown
Hopefully we will be able to get our newly MIA; IT guy Andre to "bring-in" Color Samplers for you...they both are nothing short of scrumptious - in my humble opinion....I love them both and they are what the line was missing.

In /17 Ash Brown
there are only two:

9/17
7/17

which means for most Colorists they are trying to save money & space for us. Why...You ask?
Because if you mix 1 ounce of 9/17 with 1 ounce of 7/17 you have created 2 ounces of 8/17.
Much easier than carrying 3 Colors in the cupboard, takes up less space to carry 2 colors than it does 3.
This way we have access to all 3 Colors now, don't we?

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Now we have in the brand new /38 Tonal Family called: Gold Pearl, a beautiful color - although normally I would stay very far away from anything with the word "gold" in it. Hair already has too much brass and gold undertones in it, we do not need to be adding more. Although this is an exception, I can see some sort of violet undertone in this color although they have not stated anywhere what the undertones are.. I mean a /3 is a Neutral Gold and an /8 is a Pearl...yet I still can see a very mild violet undertone which is the undertone you want. All 4 colors are beautiful I hope they add them to Color Touch, what a nice present that would be.

 I spent an hour trying to find a photo of a hair color that was EXACTLY depicting the /38 Tonal Family and finally found the perfect one - to me its a beigey-pearl . . . . which is a very hard color to find and an even harder color to achieve with hair color. Remember a lot of it (unfortunately) has to do with the existing pigment in your hair as to whether you will achieve the proper color.

As Hair Color technology improves with each and every new year, they will come closer and closer to matching the beautiful shades, no matter what your existing pigment is. I sure hope to be around for those days.....

Why your Hair is Better off without it

This means the "Daily Hair Conditioner" The 10,000 HEADS daily hair care regimen is this:

• Shampoo 3-4 times per week w/ Sulfate-Free Shampoo with 2 ways to follow:
• #1) 60% of you will be able to go 'without' any thing at all after your shampoo. Your hair doesn't tangle, you just have been conditioned to 'think' you need conditioner (ha ha ) just give it a 2 week try. OR
• #2) If your hair tangles as much as mine does & step 1 scares you, a good lightweight Spray De-tangler is your answer,I found this a very long time ago, its amazing http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/formulas-ecoly-tri-wheat-leave-in-conditioner-detangler - plain & simple it detangles, & it does not build-up on the hair, its the consistency of water.
• #3) Deep condition 1-2 nights per week with Thriven
• #4) Gleam - 1-2 squirts daily

and that's it.

The 10,000 HEADS Hair Strengthen System is a strange regimen to new members of our system of hair care, but to look at our Sales the numbers have spoken. SLS-Free Shampoo with NO conditioner, seems to be a hot idea this summer, and many are wondering even how this theory - came to be. I mean haven't you been using the 1-2 step of Shampoo - - Conditioner for most of your life? What gives with getting rid of trusty Step 2 they want to know -- why should we?

The answer I am pretty sure you will see, was another of my accidental "discoveries". . . which Killer Strands is full of. As soon as I made this discovery I never used a daily conditioner again & stopped using them on my clients which was instrumental in the birth of 10,000HEADS and its STEPS.

You need to understand Cosmetic Chemistry in order to make the Formula for a shampoo, the formula for a lip gloss, a perfume, a body lotion or cream and yes, also to make all hair products. Cosmetic Chemistry knowledge and experience is necessary to understand the rights and wrongs of making these products.

I began my cosmetic chemistry experience focusing mainly on what I thought were 2 categories, Hair Conditioners and Body Lotions. Hair conditioners for work and body lotions for myself. I had never been able to find a decent Conditioner for my clients that I wasn't continually having to clarify their hair from (I'm talking Pre-Thriven, Pre- 10,000HEADS, remember) and wanted a very moisturizing body cream/Lotion for my horrific painful dry skin, I just could not seem to find.

Those were my initial 2 goals to seek - - - and conquer - - - 1 personal & 1 professional.

First you start learning some solid elementary examples that workbooks give you. Purchase the ingredients & make a product that is already a proven success. Learning along the way... many little weird things about the formula and how exactly to make it.... was a Trip at first I was so afraid I was going to end up as the "MAD SCIENTIST" with bubbles and things blowing up right and left {didn't happen} - things ended up just fine. To be honest, Cosmetic Chemistry is not near as difficult as I imagined. Looking at a formulation at the beginning was daunting - I was sure this was going to be impossible for me to learn. But it wasn't and ended up being just the most fun and rewarding of any sport/hobby/job I have ever taken up - I love it - I wish I had more time to be developing new and cool products. I remembered being terrified of Chemistry in High School & College....doing this, I LOVED IT. It was so satisfying to develop a product that worked so perfectly... I would continue to 'make' products that were wonderful AND "effective' finally to use...you could compare it to buying a cake in the grocery store compared to making a home baked cake from scratch. There simply is no comparison. That was, and remains, the difference in home made products versus manufactured products to me.

Now the interesting part of this experimenting that I'm hoping will show many of you "WHY" Hair conditioners are a horrible product to put on your hair, I did not realize it at first. It took a couple months, and only had to do with the manner in which I work and what my 1 -- 2 interests, were.

I want to show you a Formula to make a Body Lotion, its one of the very first ones I made and tweaked to my liking. I have made well over 70 Hair Conditioners, and still am making them. I love it and it is "fun" for me now.

Now check out this formula for a good body lotion. Its not greasy, AT ALL, it lasts all day or night.

Body LOTION #13

Part A

• Distilled Water ………………….81%
• Glycerin …………………………. 1.5%
• Hydrolyzed Soy Protein ……...... 2.0%

Part B

• BTMS................ .....………...… 5.0%
• Jojoba Oil ……….......……….... 4.0%
• Shea Butter ………………….….6.0%

Part C

• Optiphen ………………………. .04%

Fragrance or Essential Oil (optional)

the DIRECTIONS are:

Directions: Heat Part A to 75C/170F . Carefully heat Part B until melted. Add Part A to B with mixing. Continue to mix until cool. At 50C/122F (or less), add Part C with mixing

The directions are pretty simple, the only hard part? . . . is the mixing part. It has to be mixed with a high power STICK BLENDER, for a couple hours and stopped and started at just the right temperature. But that isn't difficult, just boring.

All these exact same procedures ( temperatures & mixing) go into making a Hair Conditioner

This is a bare bones formula for a body lotion, but what I discovered is, it's wonderful - better than any Lotion I had ever used, and look how simple it is. I hope you see why I get so upset when there are 55 ingredients in a list when one of the big manufacturing companies make shampoos. 7/8 of them are totally unnecessary . They think they are making a better product - - this is a better product!

Here is the formula to a

Hair Conditioner:

Part A

• Distilled Water …………………………83%
• Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein ….........…. 2.4%
• Panthenol ………………………… …. 2.0%

Part B

• BTMS………………………………..… 5.5%
• Abyssinian Oil .……………………….. 2.0%
• Rose Hips Seed Oil ….......……......... 2.0%
• Shea Butter....................................... 2.0%

Part C

• Optiphen ………....................……… 0.3%

The Directions are EXACTLY the same as the above directions.

>This is called is an Emulsion. > Both Body Lotions and Hair Conditioners are the exact same Class in the cosmetic chemistry industry. >Both are emulsions. >That is what I realized that really shook me up as I hope it will you as well.

Would you take that bottle of Lubriderm body lotion, and pour it all over your hair right after your shampoo? Or that bottle of Nivea, Jergens, Aveeno, even Philosophy (a higher priced) lotion on your newly washed strands? I will never forget the day I figured this out, I was lying by the pool reading my notes of the newest formulations and a cosmetic chemist reference manual together. It felt like a ton of bricks fell on my chest - it was that jarring to me.

Well, they are made the exact same way, with the exact same water & oil Emulsion formulation. Mixing water + oil with an emulsifier and coming up with an Emulsion, no matter whether it has a Label plastered on the bottle that says it is HAIR CONDITIONER or BODY LOTION - - - - IT'S THE EXACT SAME THING!

Of course there are modifications made to make one thinner and one thicker but that is only a matter of adjusting the water to oil ratio, and does nothing to the fact that the way they are made is exactly the same and Lotion is not how your hair will flourish. So, besides the fact that Sulfate based Shampoos are causing hair-loss and thinning. Crappie emulsions the huge manufacturers make are clogging up the pores in your scalp which is restricting "new" hair growth. HHHHHHelp.

Please think about this, please give this method a try . . . see what your hair feels like without that goopy daily Conditioner on your hair, it has to do with shampoo manufacturers and the neverending cycle they want you on. Apply their sulfate Shampoos that can scrub the grease off of Garage floors, then apply their Lotion-like Daily Conditioners, which then require their sulfate shampoo's to get the Goop out again, I mean what a living nightmare. None of these steps are good for your hair's health or shine and on the opposite side they really promote hair thinning & loss, which I would say most of you don't want.

That is why everyone gets so excited when they switch to 10,000HEADS, even before they get to the part of THRIVEN & the Secret Supplement, and GLEAM. Just getting rid of that cycle has helped many many people - which I discovered in the Salon when I would rinse people's hair ( no matter how good you are, no matter how many Assistants you have - -you always end up at the shampoo bowl for some reason). That is where I came up with , "OMG - this person doesn't even need a hair conditioner - their hair rinses simply clean out and there are NO tangles. As I've repeatedly said, my own hair is a tangled web of knots after a simple shampoo - - has been since a very early age, color or not. The only thing that helps? Tri-Wheat Spray Detangler . . . and applying Color Touch on my lengths . If you are not a Licensed Hair Stylist, you really have no cause to learn about various hair "types". You concentrate on your own hair and all its little trademarks, but as a Stylist - you must learn about ALL types of hair and trademarks on everyone's hair. Stylists kind of snicker when clients want to go to a Stylist that has their own hair type/texture. That is silly to think we only know how to take care of our own hair type.

We noticed a number of orders going out with the exact same 4-6 ingredients in them, and decided to come up with Killer Kits that would give the purchasers a bit of a discount. We want to reward you for getting what is needed to fully realize the 10,000HEADS method of Hair Care. To start off with this is our newest Kit

Its called the "Go BIG or Go HOME Kit"

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/killer-strands-10-000heads-starter-kit

Killer Chemist