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AN EXTREMELY RARE IMPERIAL EMBROIDERED BLUE GAUZE ROBE OF STATE, CHAOFU -

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AN EXTREMELY RARE IMPERIAL EMBROIDERED BLUE GAUZE ROBE OF STATE, CHAOFU
以中文顯示
Estimate
(Set Currency)
    HK$1,000,000 - HK$1,500,000
  • ($129,613 - $194,419)

Sale Information

Sale 2711
the imperial saleimportant chinese ceramics and works of art
27 May 2009
Convention Hall Buy Catalog




Lot Description

AN EXTREMELY RARE IMPERIAL EMBROIDERED BLUE GAUZE ROBE OF STATE, CHAOFU
JIAQING PERIOD (1796-1820)

Worked predominantly in fine gold couched threads and satin stitches, displaying a front-facing five-clawed dragon at the chest, back and on the shoulders amidst multi-coloured cloud clusters interspersed with bats and peach sprigs above the terrestrial diagram and treasures among the waves, above the waistband decorated with striding confronted dragons to which is attached a small dragon-decorated square panel, ren, the gathered, full skirt displaying five dragon medallions and a repeated pattern of confronted dragons above a narrow terrestrial and lishui stripe at the hem, the embroidery in shades of blue, red, green, ochre, and cream against a navy blue gauze ground, with couched gold boarder and gold brocade bands at the collar, cuffs, waist and hem woven with floral design
55 x 50 in. (140 x 127 cm.)


清嘉慶 石青納紗彩雲金龍朝服

石青色紗面織金緞鑲邊, 圓領,大襟右衽,馬蹄袖, 腰圍以下為襞積式,袍身於兩肩、前胸、後背繡金龍紋各一, 以五彩絲線繡雲蝠壽桃海水, 腰帷繡行龍四, 衽正龍一, 襞積前後飾團龍, 裳飾行龍, 袖端正龍各一。

朝服為皇帝及親王、郡主於春秋季舉行大典時穿著的禮服。皇帝的朝服顏色最豐富, 在重大慶典如豋基、元 旦、萬壽及祀廟等場合用明黃色; 圜丘、祈穀、雩祭用藍色; 朝日用紅; 夕月用月白。

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Provenance

Purchased by a French Major Admiral stationed in the Far East in 1900, and kept in the family until recently

Lot Notes

Manchu men's formal attire, chaofu or robes of state, were worn for the most important court functions by the emperor, princes, nobles, civil and military high ranking officials. The events included the Grand Audiences held in the Forbidden City such as the enthronement of the emperor, receiving felicitations from officials, imperial weddings, and the great ritual sacrifices. The two-part construction of the robe, with pleated skirt attached to the upper body, derived from Ming-style court dress, which was adapted by the Manchu who altered the full sleeves to tapered sleeves and narrow cuffs, symbolic of their original nomadic lifestyle. At the Qing court the colour blue had ritual significance. It was the colour associated with the rites at the Altar of Heaven, located south of the Forbidden City where the Emperor offered sacrifices at the winter solstice and also prayed for rain during the summer months. The colbalt-blue was designated for the robes of Manchu princes from the first through the fourth rank. Other nobles and high-ranking officials, who were entitled to attend the most formal of state functions where chaofu were required, wore dark blue or black. Compared to other styles of court robes, far fewer numbers of chaofu were produced, and as a result, they are rarely found outside of public collections.

Compare to two other chaofu, both dated to mid-nineteenth century, one catalogued and illustrated in Imperial Silks: Ch'ing Dynasty Textiles in The Minneapolis Institute of Arts, Minneapolis, 2000, p. 59, fig. 1; the other example illustrated in Power Dressing: Textile for Rulers and Priests from the Chris Hall Collection, Singapore, 2006, p. 148, fig. 24.

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