20 Basics Today - 20 Basics Tuesday

1. Have all your tools ready for a quick efficient, application.

2. Proper application is essential for even uniform coverage and end results. Apply evenly by 'quarters' and 1/2 inch partings.

3.With gray hair -- start application in the 'front' - 2 quarters, Gray-free begin in the back.

4. Wear gloves, always. I've found a "small" in a Latex glove (for pretty much any female) is the perfect size. Surgical-tight makes the process easier.

5. For best results and results I can back-up, use Professional Hair Color and Professional H2O2 (developer) ONLY. Which does not include any Hair Color Products at Sally's. For a list of Hair Color approved by Killer Strands please email: Killerstrands@gmail.com. When I say Wella in my posts, I refer only to the European International Lines of Wella meaning: Koleston Perfect - permanent hair color, Blondor- lighteners & Color Touch - demi-permanent color....I receive countless emails from readers thinking that Wella is Wella...when nothing could be further from the truth. The 2 versions aren't even developed in the same country, the ingredients in the color and developers are nothing a like. The  2 lines are formulated in 2 separate corners of the world. The Euro line of Koleston Perfect & Color Touch is made in Germany - home of precision engineering and BMWS.....and Color Charm is made in Woodland Hills, California about 20 miles from me. They are nothing alike.  

6. Work with clean - dry hair, using the absolute best clarifying (Un-Doo-Goo) shampoo before you color. The old "color works best on dirty hair" is history.

7. Using Barrier Cream on the hair-line when tinting Level 8 + darker,  will eliminate the Shoe-Polish-Cap look. They teach in Academy to use on all hair colors, I've never seen a reason to.

8. If your scalp has ANY sores, abrasions,or cuts at all...do NOT Color until it is healed. Best Cure ?  Depends on cause of course, Killer Strands own GLEAM, carries a host of "natural"  antibiotics, there are 4 glorious oils. Argan is the leader which contains rare plant sterols not found in other oils, which have anti-inflammatory properties - perfect for helping to solve most scalp issues.

9. Color will not LIFT Color !

10. If your plans are to use a lifting formula on previously tinted hair . . . you absolutely MUST - MUST - MUST use an Artificial Hair Color Remover - first {see rule # 9} Having used the same one for 17 years ( through 4 owners - it is now called -VANISH ) There are 5 complete Posts on this subject - please read them all > That should clarify most questions. http://killerstrands.blogspot.com/search/label/Hair%20Color%20Removal  .Using any of the inferior brands to save a few dollars - seem only to result in continuous damage to inner hair bonds.

11.  It is not possible to lift higher than Level 10 with a tint.

12.The higher the volume of H2O2 (developer) you use, the more control you lose.

13. Every time you color your hair; write down the formula, the timings and other pertinent facts like: Loved it! or Hated it! in 6-7 weeks when you go to retouch once again - you will be able to duplicate it....or not!

14. All Virgin hair is some shade of Brown.

15. Remember,  we don't deal with brown hair , even though all hair is brown; we deal with orange, red, yellow, etc.

16. Healthy hair pulls warm.

17. Porous Hair pulls Ash.

18. If going 2 or more levels darker, use the Filling technique which I have yet to go into.. 

19. Always, always run Test Strands on your hair !  I believe in these for my Internet Hair Color Consultations 100% and for all of you that do not know 100% what you are doing..its one hour out of your life..and can save you from hair Doom & Gloom

20.ALWAYS DO A PATCH TEST; if you have never used this particular brand / line of color. Patch test is testing the color product on your skin for 24 hours, to be sure that particular product is compatible.

Split Ends and The Tricks

I'm going to start writing shorter posts, here and there, on shorter subjects that I wouldn't write about previously because I thought there was enough info on it. . .I must stop worrying about that

Split Ends

Now this is a subject there is NOT a lot of info on - there truly isn't. I have seen a few commercials that would have you believe shampoo can prevent split ends, I had to put my 2 cents in on that. The only way to deal with them is too cut the damn things off . There is this silly commercial that says split ends can be taken care of by shampoo . Shampoo is on your hair for what a minute - maybe - MAX ? Something on your hair for a minute cannot solve a whole lotta anything, do not fall for that type of thing........ ever.

Split ends occur, when the protective layer of the cuticle is removed from the tip of the strand. As a result, the hair splits into two or three strands, each two to three centimeters long, at its tip.

Some of the causes of split ends?

• not getting haircut
• hair being cut with a razor
• having fine hair
• constant electrical tool use
• putting hair back with damaging elastics
• brushing hair wet

The ways to prevent split ends? Get your hair trimmed regularly, by regularly I mean ...every 6-8 weeks for shorter hair - every 10-12 weeks for long hair. With the way split ends are formed, I had certain clients that just had them way more than others. I started with an oil treatment of a couple fine oils back then . . . and now I use GLEAM , Killer Strands own OIL treatment, the results are spectacular. I have been using exotic oil treatments since I began working on hair, exotic oils work such wonders on hair you just will never know until you try them. (You are able to purchase GLEAM, on the side bar)

You need to cut split ends off as soon as you notice them . . . they will just keep splitting up the hair strand and if you didn't want your hair cut before you are going to be super sad when it continues splitting up that strand shorter and shorter. Think about your regular maintenance routine and try to identify why your hair is splitting. Hopefully you will notice what is the reason, the list is pretty defining.

There are 2 excellent methods of application. Choose 1.

As Spring comes blossoming out of the sky, requests for blonde's and blonding come floating in the email "in" box. Most of the country. . ruffling their feathers from hibernating all winter . .begin thinking of warmth and brightness and sun. Many let their base (roots)  grow out much longer than at any other time throughout the year, but know.... its time to make that change, ever thought of going Stefani blond.... let the platinum begin.

This technique is referred to as double process, which is deceiving and inappropriate in my book, but I suppose I cannot re-write History. The 1st process would be the bleaching, the 2nd the Toner.  . . .Toning is not a "process" its an application. But there you have anyway.

Going Platinum Blond is a statement and a mission . .  I have seen meager timid guys go from mice to men and shy submissive women turn out as dominating. Its amazing what a hair color can do to a personality.

When mixing Levitation Oil Bleach ... (found in Killer Color Clinic) http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands .. it may not seem like it but it is crucial that you mix in the order described.  The powder and oil should connect first. . .  mix well  . .followed by the addition of the Developer. If I for some reason forget and  begin doing it the wrong way I will stop and start over. I have tried it before and the results were NOT the same - so please remember that. You want the bleach to apply in a nice silky manner so it does not drip . . . nor is too dry - - so the moisture needs to be perfect. Following directions to a T will give you that.

The usual method of application for a full bleach out is similar to the double application method for single process color. First apply 1 inch away from scalp, then, when the mid-shaft is nearly the desired stage of lightening, apply to the scalp area.

Now here is an alternative method  . . . which when going through my old notes from the Academy, I remembered. It was refreshing enough to read, and my next bleaching will be using this method.

First , apply the bleach. . .scalp to ends . . using the parting and sectioning I have pointed out in previous posts. When the scalp area is the desired stage of lightening . .rinse and shampoo. Dry the hair with a cool dryer. Now with this method you can see where exactly the hair needs its 2nd dose of bleach and you won't have any overlapping or over-bleaching of more vulnerable areas of the hair such as over-porous end or a fine hairline

There is no more meticulous application of product than that for on-the-scalp bleaching.  The rewards for precision are even bleaching, even toning, and hair that doesn't break. Begin the application in the darkest or coarsest area of the hair. Take fine sections with your TAIL COMB. ..thin enough to see through. With re-touches, you MUST be careful of overlapping - - and its easier to just lay a line of bleach at the scalp, the lay the next section against it, rather than smearing the bleach in with fingers.

If you are lifting past yellow be patient. . .GOLD IS ALWAYS the toughest pigment color to eliminate. It will probably take longer to go from yellow to pale yellow than it took to bring the natural base to yellow.

With double process is important. When you rinse the bleach - -  be gentle and very thorough.Lukewarm water most efficiently rinses the thick oil bleach . . .followed by a very gentle SLS-FREE Shampoo . .  another rinse and then the final smothering in Wella's "IN DEPTH". Which will completely stop any bleach from continuing to work, HOORAY!  Rinse well and towel dry the hair gently. Leaving in IN DEPTH for 30-45 minutes is always what I end up doing but it is totally optional.  In DEPTH is a porosity treatment and there is nothing better  for lightened hair than porosity treatment. I have found this glorious new on from Redken that I feel should be included in the Platinum process. If you feel you need it sooner than when I get it in the store, please email me Killerstrands@gmail.com  in the SUBJECT Header....put  " Platinum Porosity" . Thank you.

TONER TIME

Check your Toners Directions  most of them can be applied to damp hair or dry hair. Toners are many times an oxidative tint (need a developer) Many of the Professional hair color lines including Wella have enlisted specific colors on their chart to be made into Toners...although using a TONER made just for Toning, will have less ammonia, a lower pH, and in general will be gentler to both head and scalp. Toners only need a very low volume of developer. Purposes of toners are to conceal or beautify underlying warmth, depositing the desired hue and evening-out small defects in the bleach-out.

The lightest, most delicate toners call for a pale yellow stage of lightening. Lighten too little, leaving yellow still dominant in the hair, and the tone achieved will remain too yellowish. On the other hand, if the toner calls for a yellow stage of lightening and you over-lighten to pale yellow, there will not be enough underlying warmth in the hair to offset the artificial pigment and the hair will display too much of the toner's base color.

How the toner takes depends on the porosity of the hair . . . and guess what helps the porosity become even after all the up and downs of chemical services? ? ?  IN DEPTH . . .  that crazy inexpensive product that you may purchase in  KILLER  COLOR CLINIC  .

Killer Chemist