
The Japanese word "matsuri" means festival and it is 1 of the 2 words (the other is "konnichi wa") my friend Domn8or knows. This weekend, the downtown streets of Hanamaki were filled with the sounds of merriment, the aroma of festival foods such as yakitori and yakisoba , and the jeers of intoxicated revelers all joining together to celebrate in mass that which I have still have not figured out. The Hanamaki matsuri takes place over the course of three days and is part County Fair, part Mardi Gras, part religious revival, and all fun!
On Friday afternoon, I absconded from my desk as soon as possible and made a brief stop at the nearest Family Mart convenience store. I procured for myself six aluminum cylindrical containers of the intoxicating beverage known as Chu-Hi and returned to my humble abode where I began a pre-party with myself and a package of bottle rockets. By the time Meow returned home at 1700 hours, I was already down 2 cans of Chu-Hi, fresh out of bottle rockets, and feeling good.
At 1730, we departed ourselves for the matsuri and the deluge of merriment that awaited us. When we arrived at the station, we thought it prudent to park our two-wheeled peddlers at the station and mosey on down the rest of the way. Nearing the venue we could hear the chants from the children's mikoshi parade. We spotted J-Cup, and her teammates all dressed in black, hamming it up and preparing to lug the heavy mikoshi down the street. Such an action should never place unless one is tanked full of beer and that's exactly what was happening there. J-Cup informed us that Machine and Captain Crankypants were also carrying that night so keep an eye out for them, but to our disappointment, during the parade we saw neither J-Cup, nor Machine, nor Captain Crankypants.
During the course of the mikoshi parade, we did receive some free souvenirs. Because of my gusto and exhumberance to returning the cheers of "washoi!" from other mikoshi teams, I was given a free cup of sake (which I had to chug) and necklaces from 2 separate teams. Meow also received the same neck acutrements. Twice, I was grabbed by mikoshi-carrying teams to join them and help carry the mikoshi down the street, both times I joined, but only for about 5 feet because I was safe in the knowledge that I was going to be doing that the next evening and wanted to save my strength. I showed Meow around the downtown streets of Hanamaki, I saw quite a few of my students, and I found my team and said hello. I was suckered into an informal sumo match (which I won!) and had Yuji, the team leader, jump on me like an Ethiopian on a Big Mac, except he wasn't wearing any pants!!!
After the parades were over, Meow, J-Cup, and I met up with some other ALT's at a bar closer to the station. They were in transition and were waiting for someone. After having a round of drinks (or 2), we all headed back to the bar district. J-Cup and I, while happy to be out, really weren't up for a night out with drunken foreigners, especially in our city. So we headed to a more local bar that we both knew, but it was closed, so we decided to patronize the one right next to it. We stayed for several hours, sang 3 rounds John Denver's tribute to homesickness, "Country Roads" with modified lyrics, on the karaoke machine. I did a tear-jerking rendition of Extreme's "More Than Words" and killed my voice doing the screaming on Nirvana's "Smells Like Teen Spirit". We tried singing easy English songs for a Japanese friends, like "Row Row Row Your Boat" and "When Johnny Comes Marching Home", but mostly we just hung out with the locals in the small bar. Feeling drowsy and in need of some rest and respite, I departed myself at 0230 and was given a lift home by my friend Natsumi who I had convinced to make it out with us. She brought me back to my apartment and I loaned her some English movies to play on her computer. I finally joined the land of the temporarilly dead around 0300.
Saturday was the fun day. After sleeping in until 1030hrs and picking up my friend T-Bill at the station, Daddaluma, J-Cup, Koz, T-Bill, and I joined our mikoshi team at the temple rendevouz point. On the way to the temple, we were dressed in all white and I found myself feeling as though I was either a Muslim on a pilgrimage to Mecca, or a Pentacostal, going down to the river to wash away my sins. I even found myself singing a few bars of Allison Krause's "Down to the River to Pray"
"As I went down in the river to pray, studying about that good ol' way and who shall wear, the starry crown, good Lord show me the way."
At the temple, we "prepared" to the carry the mikoshi, and by "prepared", I mean we started drinking. Yes, we got dressed in the over jacket known as a "happi", but we mostly drank in preparation of the 2 1/2 hours we would bearing the weight of the mikoshi and the deity residing inside. Apparently, the gods were not smiling on us that day because the generator which lit the mikoshi kept dieing on us and as we marched down the street, chanting "washoi", our mikoshi was the only one not lit up. For Daddaluma and I, but more for me, carrying a mikoshi is not fun because we are much taller than average Japanese person. Even if I am at the highest bar on the mikoshi, I am still bent over while carrying the weight on the back of neck. I can't look up and I can't see where I'm going. I soon tired of this monotany and marched behind the mikoshi, while still cheering and supporting our team.
The after party was the highlight of the night and the only real reason why I wanted to carry a mikoshi again this year. It was out of control! and T-Bill had the time of his life. Both of us took enough incriminating photos of each other to ensure that neither of will be running for any political office in the near future. J-Cup used her attraction to Japanese men to make out with as many drunk guys as she could and her mammory glands ended up being the main attraction of the night as there seemed to be an informal contest to see who could clutch her teats the most number of times. There wasn't as much nakedness by team this year, but it was every bit as crazy, and Daddaluma and I tried in vain to sing "Livin' La Vida Loca" and get somebody up on the bar to light his pubic hairs on fire.
By Sunday, I was wiped out and could no longer muster any energy to get myself down to the matsuri, but I did, just in time to see some of the Shishi Odori dancers perform before a thunderstorm beat them into submission.
The story behind the Shishi Odori (Deer Dance) is a rather interesting one and is based on a legend in the Iwate story. "Iwate" means "Demons Hands" and in Morioka, there is a rock, where according to legend, a demon left his hand prints. You see, he was chained to rock after being captured by the local people and they wanted him to leave, so they performed Shishi Odori (Deer Dance) and he left, but before he left, he left his hand prints in the rock. So the people of Iwate perform Shishi Odori to commemorate this occurance and to keep the demon from coming back.