Wednesday, July 24, 2002; Page F05

All surimi crab-flavored seafood is not created alike. Color, flavor, aroma and texture vary from brand to brand. For an informal taste test, surimi products were gathered from the seafood department of supermarkets and specialty stores. One came directly from the manufacturer. Three U.S. brands (Louis Kemp Seafood "Crab Delights," LM Foods "Classic Bay Supreme" and Trans Ocean "Crab Classic" went head-to-head with Samho brand from Korea and Osaki brand from Japan.

The winner was Osaki brand ($2.20 for 4.5 ounces) -- a surimi seafood with a pleasing , snowy-white color, a distinct crab-like flavor and a versatile, stringy texture that would work well in sushi, salads or soups. It's available at Daruma Japan Market, 6931 Arlington Rd., Bethesda; call 301-654-8832. Osaki surimi is also available at most Korean supermarkets.

We also tried prepared surimi seafood salads made by Louis Kemp and Salads of the Sea. We will be polite. We did not care for these products. We would prefer to take Osaki surimi and create our own salad.

-- Walter Nicholls